Loving Copenhagen

What can I say? I am loving Copenhagen!! It's everything I thought it would be, and more. The only downside I've had so far is that I left my camera battery charger at home, so I had to find a photo shop to purchase one. Since things here are expensive, it cost me a pretty penny. Or kroner.

This mishap caused me to have a late start on my first full day Tuesday because I didn't have a fully charged camera battery and I had to be careful of running out of juice. Anyway, as much as I kicked myself for all of my stupidity in leaving the damn thing at home, I didn't let it stop me from enjoying the city. My first stop was in the tourist information office on Vesterbrogade to purchase the 72 hour Copenhagen Card. The good thing about this card is that it's based on the hour, not the day. I had the card stamped to start at noon so I was able to use it Tuesday up through Friday at noon to my advantage. Because this was the off-season and things closed up so early, I don't think I truly got my money's worth from the card. For those traveling during the summer months, however, this card would be much more beneficial. Still, it did help me a lot in the long run.

I headed down Stroget and off to Amalienborg Slot to see the changing of the guard. This is held daily at noon. When Queen Margrethe is in residence, music accompanies the changing. She must have been away, because it was dead quiet. The interesting thing about this traditional practice is how close you can get to the guards. Afterwards, I visited the Amalienborg museum which is located inside of Christian VIII's palace. It is here where you can view the drawing room of Queen Louise and the study of King Christian IX, among others. Let me tell you. This was definitely a highlight of the trip. For the few who don't know, one of my hobbies is studying royalty, namely the descendants of Queen Victoria and Christian IX. When Christian and Louise passed away, their rooms were locked and left alone never to be touched until years later, when the museum was created. All of the items were then removed and painstakingly relocated to the rooms recreated for the public to see. You aren't allowed to go into the rooms. Instead, they are cordoned off with glass for one to view through.

Thankfully, I was the only one in the museum at the time, because if people had seen me, there would have been serious concerns regarding my sanity. For I was standing there, face pressed against the glass, fogging up from my heavily breathing mouth, eyes wide open, marveling at the photos the late King and Queen had accumulated from their camera happy dynastic offspring. Another exhibit was about the late Queen Ingrid's dresses. Like all museums this one had a gift shop. As much as I was tempted to buy everything there, I ended up purchasing a few postcards, a book about the museum, and A Royal Family, which I had been drooling over for a few years now. It's difficult to get this book in the US and I certainly was not disappointed!

Near to the palace was Alexander Nevsky Church. This had been commissioned by Christian and Louise's daughter Empress Maria of Russia. It was where she worshipped during her visits back to her homeland, and also where her funeral was held after she died in exile in Denmark after the Revolution. I stepped inside and was greeted by the Russian language, the heavy air of incense, and a family preparing for their infant's christening. The interior of the church was absolutely stunning. I obeyed the rules and didn't snap any photos whilst there.

Afterwards, I tried getting a table at Ida Davidsen, but since I didn't have a reservation and was way too hungry to wait another hour before a spot opened up, I was out of luck. This wasn't necessarily a bad thing because I walked over to Magasin du Nord, which is the oldest department store in Scandinavia, and purchased a nice satisfying lunch at the cafe located in the basement level of the store.

That night, I visited Tivoli Gardens. Apparently, this was the inspiration for Disneyland. It certainly didn't disappoint. In fact, I consider it to be a very underrated attraction. If you can, visit at night when it's much more magical. I lucked out because normally the place closes in October, but opens up in late November for "Christmas in Tivoli". It was here where I first sampled Glogg, which tastes, well, like you would probably expect Glogg to taste like. Heavy, medicinal, clove like, and sickly sweet. I didn't care much for it, but I'm glad to have given it a try.

Wednesday was my travel to Ballerup day. Public transport in Denmark is so easy to manage. I had zero problems getting out there. I did have one lip biting moment when I arrived and realized that I should take a city bus to the museum I wanted to visit instead of walking there. For some weird reason, buses freak me out. I will gladly brave any city's subway system, but their bus system always causes me to stress. Thankfully, it was only four stops to the museum and I was immediately glad I didn't walk because I got dropped off in an stark and empty industrial part of the town. My saving grace was a large sign pointing up a side road to the Ballerup Museum. Once I got to the top it was like in the Wizard of Oz when Dorothy steps out of the house and everything turns to glorious technicolor. At the top of the road was a farm community complete with thatched roof cottages and horse and buggy rides. Picture postcard scenery.

Afterwards, I took the bus back to the station and decided to check out the town center which was situated nearby. I ended up buying a cute corduroy blazer at a thrift shop for 6DKK. I don't think I'll be returning to Ballerup anytime in the future, but it was definitely a nice experience.

Since I had the time, when I returned to Copenhagen, I visited Rosenborg Castle to see the crown jewels. The castle gardens (Kongens Have) were beautiful and made me wonder what they looked like in full bloom during the summer. It was in this neighborhood, Norreport, that I really got a better feel for the locals. When I travel, I always try and blend in as much as possible. It's not always possible, but it's something I strive to achieve.

Thursday, was definitely a jam packed day. This was when I did the most touring around Copenhagen. I also discovered that the metro was indeed my friend. All those cobblestones coupled with many miles of walking had finally got the best of me. So, Thursday I would remain active but try and limit the amount of walking I would do. I visited the Rundetarn (Round Tower) for some great views of the city. I made it over to see the Little Mermaid. She really is little! I also visited Kastellet, which was quite picturesque. The neighborhood of Christianshavn was beautiful and reminded me a bit of Amsterdam. I don't recall if Vor Frelser's Kirke was open, but at that point, I was too exhausted and didn't bother to climb the 400 steps to the top. Even if it would have offered spectacular views. The next stop would be Christiania.

Christiania was a trip. You aren't allowed to take photos inside, but what I saw will stay with me for a lifetime! The place smells of weed and incense. There were several fires lit in trash cans. People were just chillin' and socializing while music blared throughout the place. Murals cover the buildings and random art decorates the open spaces. I thought that Pusher Street would literally be a street. It was more like an open area. One thing that appealed to me was that dogs ran freely around the community. I'm a sucker for friendly dog packs. I was disappointed that the buildings were so run down looking. Although it's more akin to a hippie commune, capitalism is necessary to make this machine run. Christiania offers an array of eating establishments and there are several stalls selling various items. It was also the only place in Copenhagen where I found a decent cup of hot tea! I ended up chatting with the girl who worked the stand where I bought my tea and we had an interesting conversation about the community. She had been born and raised there and looked back on her upbringing with much fondness.

Once I got outside I witnessed the funniest fight between two women. Although I couldn't understand Danish, I surmised that one woman (#1) was in some way responsible for the other (#2) falling off her bicycle. After much bickering back and forth, #2 got back on her bike a began to peddle away. #1 with her hands nestled casually in her coat pockets, nonchalantly lifted her leg and kicked #2's bike, sending her sprawling on the ground with all her money falling allover the surface of the road. The two began fist fighting and for a moment, I was relieved that I lived in a country that relied on paper money, because if that were me fighting, not only would I have gotten a serious ass kicking, but I would have walked away poor.


Thursday night, I had "Thanksgiving dinner" at Det lille Apotek. If you ever visit Copenhagen, please try and eat here. I ordered the stone beef, which is their most popular dish. They bring you raw beef on a hot cooking stone. If you're like me and you prefer your beef on the rare side, just cut it in half and give it a swirl all around the stone until it's cooked to your liking. For well done, you cut it in several smallish pieces. They serve it with Hollandaise sauce, along with a baked potato, salad, and a grilled tomato. Delicious!

On Friday I'm off to Helsingor, Denmark where I'll cross the Oresund into Helsingborg, Sweden. Then it's on to Malmo before swinging back into Copenhagen.