Day 8 - Poland

November 28 -

I finally got a good night's rest and an amazingly full breakfast. I was prepared for walking Krakow this day. I had made friends at the hostel and palled around with one of them for the day as we walked most of the main area of the city, called Old Town. The main square is gorgeous. We walked further out of the main area and found Oskar Schindler's factory, albeit in a very dodgy area of town. Kazmeirez was cool to explore. Krakow's Jewish quarter is fairly intact, considering the viscous history visited upon the area and its residents during the Nazi regime. Virtually nothing remains of the Jewish population, and those visiting must piece together their fateful lives through the buildings and temples that still stand as a testament to their past existence.

We ate at Ariel, laughing at the menu options. A lot of the dishes were preceded by the word "Jewish" - as in "Jewish roast beef", "Jewish stew". Otherwise, is was a nice dining experience, though naturally, a bit touristy given the area. Afterwards, with night falling around us, we checked out the Christmas market in the center of the main square. I did a bit of shopping in the old textile hall and finally called it a night.

I loved the hostel I stayed in and met some great people. Greg & Tom was an amazing place to hang out. The staff was top notch. Snacks and drinks were provided non-stop and they served an amazing breakfast. They have a no bunk beds policy, which is always nice. Close to the train station and Old Town, it was perfect, especially since I had an early morning flight and didn't want any problems getting to the train.

Day 7 - Poland

November 27 -

I don't think one could ever prepare themselves for a visit to a concentration camp. Given my sorrow a few days earlier at Babi Yar, I still didn't know what to expect visiting Auschwitz. I think we all know it's an awful place, filled with the worst evil humanity could have thought to dredge up. Even the leftover remains of the barracks tells a story of extreme desperation.

I took the city bus out to Osweicim, which oddly enough, is a beautiful ride. My mind was momentarily lost in the beauty of the Polish countryside until we got closer and I was struck with the most worrisome thoughts about what kind of past these homes had. Who lived here when the camps were built? What did they think of the horrors practically occurring at their doorstep? Did they watch the many death marches to and from the camps? What did they think, or did they think at all out of fear of the reality of the situation?

The closer we got to the camp the more anxious I found myself, until we arrived and were let off in the parking lot. Entering the infamous "Arbeit macht frei" sign ("work makes free"), I had to wince at the absurdity of it all. No one was ever set free for working. Walking the rows of blockhouses I was struck at how well done this monument was to those who perished here. There are actually two Auschwitz camps. The second and bigger camp is about a mile away in Brzezinka. I walked the distance, collecting my thoughts, and arrived to deal with a completely different camp, but felt the same disturbing feelings walking amongst this hallowed graveyard.

My feelings for this visit run deep. Words cannot express how profound my experience here was. I walked through the camp silent, inwardly gasping at some of the exhibits. Rooms full of suitcases, shoes, and bags of women's hair, and a display of baby clothes - it was extremely unbearably at times. My faith in humanity was tested several times. But, I had to stay and bear witness, or else I could not be a proper witness when these crimes are questioned by those with hateful agendas.

Day 6 - Ukraine

November 26 -

My ticket for the overnight train from Kiev to Lviv was for platzcart - third class accommodations. Not that I minded, especially since it only cost me about $10.00 and included clean, warm bedding. I just preferred 2nd class for some privacy. Being out in the open plan, I found the beds a bit bigger and with more room to move about, but the not too dim overhead lights and constant movement of people throughout the aisles prohibited me from having a decent night's sleep. Not good considering I had a long day in Lviv.

I became a bit of a curiosity to my fellow passengers. Not used to platzcart, but knowing some of the protocol of Russian trains, they watched my every move, especially once I took out a book. By morning, I was somewhat under the wing of my fellow passengers. Cautious as they were, they were so helpful in making sure I understood how to manage. I've said it before and I'll say it again, Russians (in this case Ukrainians) will make sure you get where you need to go. The train arrived and I was amused to hear a tinny version of the Ukrainian national anthem. My curiosity was confirmed a few minutes later when another train arrived. The Ukrainian national anthem is played for every arriving train.

I needed a shower and the Lviv train station offered this service for about 1USD, piping hot water included. I just had to supply the soap and towel. Afterwards, I checked my luggage and bought my ticket to Krakow. Thankfully, the Dutch couple back at the hostel Kiev had come from Lviv via Krakow, and gave me the heads up on which English speaking window to go to. They even gave me the rest of their Polish currency. I am forever grateful to them for making this step easier and more sane, and for the extra change. I only hope I've somehow paid it forward tenfold since then.

Now, I was ready to head out. The tram messed me up, so I ended up lost and backtracking to the train station in order to walk into town. This was a city I wasn't really prepared for, taking for granted it's size and the lack of Russian spoken here. I felt confused by the Ukrainian Cyrillic and hesitant to speak Russian for fear of offending. This was a city that had pretty much erased much of the Russian language from it's culture.

In Rynok Square, I took one of those tacky trolley rides and this turned out to be the best decision I made. It gave me my bearings and I was able to get the gist of the area. Lviv is a gorgeous city and I predict it'll begin to rival Prague, Krakow, and Budapest, as places to visit for the weekend. In fact, this was one of the reasons why the overnight between Krakow train route was created. That it is a bit shop worn is completely forgivable. It's interesting to note that Lviv was once under Habsburg control. For some reason, they respected the Ukrainians, allowing them to practice their language and culture, a departure from typical monarchs of the day. In return, the Ukrainians remained loyal subjects, and thrived as a people. It is said that Lviv is a city of firsts. It has the distinction of being the first city as you enter Eastern Europe and the first city as you enter Western Europe. Whatever appellation bestowed on the city, it was worthy of a visit, despite the short amount of time I visited.

I look back on Lviv with more fondness than I was feeling for it at the time. In my defense, I was both tired, facing an extremely long day, and a bit hesitant due to lack of information. It's a huge city but I concentrated mainly on the area around Rynok Square. Since it was Thanksgiving Day, I chose Café Veronika for my meal - grilled lamb, vegetables, wine, and cherry pie. It was amazing.

Settling in for the near midnight train, I knew this would be a rough night. Indeed, it was. For the under six hour train ride from Lviv to Krakow, I was woken up a total of four different times by immigration. Twice each by Ukrainian and Polish military. I slept with my passport, which enabled me to have a grasp of the situation when the time came. Each time, with weary tired eyes, I handed my passport over to whomever entered the room, at all times remaining in my bed save for the last immigration check when it was discovered I was American and my belongings had to be searched.

Day 5 - Ukraine

November 25 -

My last day and I had to finish up everything on my list, or live with regrets. I couldn't leave Kiev without visiting Babi Yar, sight of the genocide of thousands of Jewish citizens of Ukraine, and others. I had first learned of this atrocity in high school and had become obsessed with the story of Dina Pronicheva, a woman who barely survived the massacre. The Soviet monument to make amends is in the wrong spot. The Jewish monument is in the correct place, right near the ravines where the bodies were unceremoniously dumped. There are various other monuments to the dead too, including one erected for the children who perished here.

My visit was solemn, walking the various paths that ultimately end at the deep ravines once containing the bodies of innocents. Otherwise, aside from the area, it's a huge park and nothing much is going on in the neighborhood. In fact, since it's outside the city center, in a suburb, the area is downright Soviet in architecture.

I took the Metro to the Arsenalna stop and transferred over to a marshrutka to get to Kiev Pechersk Lavra, which is also known colloquially as the "caves monastery". I honestly don't think a visit to Kiev is complete without visiting the caves. Entrance was through the Trinity Gate, and I visited the various churches in both the upper and lower lavras. Women must have their heads covered to enter, so there is no shortage of scarf sellers outside the gates.

To get into the caves, you pay the entrance fee by purchasing a candle to light the way. The descent into the caves are dark, narrow, and extremely claustrophobic. To be honest, although I dealt well with the catacombs in Paris, these caves freaked me out. The amount of glass topped coffins containing saints with their mummified remains sticking out from under the heavy brocade they were covered in, was bone chilling. I found myself afraid to be alone in the many alcoves that contained these open coffins. Also, the religious fervency was shocking for me coming from such a low key Protestant background. I also had to be careful my scarf didn't set on fire from all the candles being waved around by others. I was sad to have missed out on visiting Rodina Mat, but I could see her from the Lavra. It was getting too dark at this point.

I had a quick bite to eat at a café next to the Arsenalna metro. Checking my watch, I could see that I wasn't going to make it to the Chernobyl museum. This disappointed me, but hey, I had been to the actual site so didn't harp on the missed opportunity. Still, it would've been nice to see more perspective about this tragedy.

I was sad to leave Kiev, which was definitely a city I took for granted in terms of actual sightseeing opportunities. I thought I'd only need a few days but was surprised that I didn't even scratch the surface.

Day 4 - Ukraine

November 24 -

I took the metro to the area around the Mariyinsky Palace. Arsenalna metro is one of the deepest subways in the world. Taking photos is a no-no here, so imagine how tense I became when I got caught taking one and was duly reprimanded by a metro worker. Thankfully, it's the Ukraine, not Russia, or else I'd be bribing the police to get me out of this jam. Mariyinsky Palace was beautiful (lovely shade of blue), but as luck would have it, under reconstruction. Still, I could see much of it through the fence and I snapped tons of photos.

Checking out the Mariyinsky park and all the stray dogs, it was sunny out this morning, the weather was nice. There was a tiny religious village set up in the park and I couldn't make heads or tails what it was all about. I do know there was an Orthodox cross erected directly in front of the Parliament building, which sits next to the palace. I'm sure there was an explanation, but at that moment, it was all completely lost on me.

Back to the hostel for breakfast. Omlettes again. Now I discovered why they were so delicious. Oil. The omlettes were cooked in about an inch of vegetable oil. Explains why I was sick the entire trip. Almost everything I consumed was cooked in tons of oil. Out again, and my day continued with a stop at the Golden Gate. Since I had walked this route the previous night, I felt like a pro now. St. Sophia Cathedral was gorgeous and the climb to the top of the Bell Tower rewarded me with the most magnificent views of St. Michael's just down the road. It was so beautiful outside and I got some fantastic photos. I walked over to St. Michael's and then headed to Andrew's Descent.

Other than St. Andrew's church, which the area is named for, the Andriyivskyy Descent wasn't exactly the most thrilling aspect of the neighborhood. From what I had read, I initially gathered that it would be some funky, cool place to hangout. To tell you the truth, it was all just meh. The real challenge were the people running the souvenir stalls. Of course, they speak perfect English. And the hard sell was tiring. Since this is the only area where you can get the best selection of cheap souvenirs, I had to deal with it. I did walk away with some gorgeous, and super cheap, colorful easter eggs (Pysanka). I ate at a traditional Ukrainian restaurant and headed down the hill to check out the neighborhood of Podil. Podil was the more funky area and where I saw more locals, cafes, nightclubs, and loads of kiosks selling almost everything one could think of. Kievans buy everything kiosks.

Having walked for eons that day, I headed back to the hostel and asked the manager to write out my train instructions in Russian. Apparently, the written request I came armed with wasn't sufficient enough when I originally tried to buy tickets to Lviv. The manager explained that nothing was wrong with them, just that the ticket booth women were too "stupid" (her words!) and needed only the basic of information. Thankfully, this new train ticket request worked because I had my tickets in just a few minutes, including, I think, a slight smile from the woman working the booth.

Day 3 - Ukraine

November 23 -

This was my "get out and explore the city" day. I find these are needed to get my bearings and to check out the architecture, which in Kiev, is unbelievably gorgeous. The city reminded me so much of St. Petersburg, Russia. I felt at times I had gone back to my most favorite city. Central Kiev was easy to navigate. Again, knowing Cyrillic and a bit of Russian made it a breeze. I walked west and then south of the hostel, passing by the brightly painted red building of Kiev University. In 1901, Tsar Nicholas II ordered the building to be painted red so that students protesting against conscription would be reminded of the embarrassment (and blush red) at their actions. I made my way down and around, so to speak.

The last statue of Lenin was covered over, getting a makeover. The Ukrainian Communist Party was there collecting funds for the refurbishing. Besarabsky Market was chock full of fresh meat and produce, plus tons of caviar. I'm sure I was ripped off buying the most juicy, delicious, melt in your mouth, blackberries, but I can deal with that. The House with Chimaeras was wicked cool. The overcast sky made the house more Gothic in appearance. Now hungry, I was at a loss for food and wasn't feeling the national cuisine. Admittedly, I ended up eating at T.G.I. Friday's twice during my entire stay. After going back to rest and chat with my fellow hostel mates, I headed back out to see if there were any night shots of the Mariyinsky Palace. Unfortunately, no. But I made the same route I would do the next morning and it was nice to get some night shots of the cathedrals and of the city.

I went grocery shopping (surprise!) and bought a bag full of goodies. A bottle of premium vodka, a bottle of water, yogurt drink, box of chocolates, and a huge bag of Kasha came to a total of just under $10. I also noticed the immense drinking that goes on in this city, especially amongst teenagers. Alcohol is really cheap here, with one entire wall in the supermarket devoted to malt liquor. Most of the people in line that time of night were young people purchasing cans of the stuff. With the Ukraine breaking from it's Soviet past and ready to prosper, I worry for those developing drinking problems today who may end up missing out tomorrow.

Day 2 - Ukraine

November 22 -

This was one of the important days. The day that necessitated sneaking everything on the plane as carry-on for fear of missing my short connection in Warsaw to Kiev. I took part in a day trip to Chernobyl. Having stumbled across the tour years ago, over time, subsequent searches brought up photo albums of other people's day trips and my interest in taking the tour grew exponentially over time. The exposure to radiation was minimal (about one transatlantic flight, I was told) and I definitely armed myself with all the pertinent information. Finally convinced I would be okay, I looked forward to the tour and certainly wasn't disappointed.

I arrived at Independence Square with my passport (required) and waited, watching my fellow travelers trickle in. Grabbing a quick breakfast of blini at the McDonald's nearby, I was ready for the day. I also purchased kitten pies, but made an embarrassing mistake. I'm so used to asking "сколько" ("how much?"), but became visibly confused when the tables were turned and I was asked the question. Turns out, the pies were sold by the pound. The woman behind the counter was inquiring how many I wanted by the pound. Anyway. The ride to Chernobyl was quicker than stated in the tour information, our driver navigated the roads like a maniac. A good part of the main city streets in Kiev are cobblestone, which made for an interesting and bumpy ride. The villages we passed looked like some of the poorest in Ukraine.

The fast and crazy driving cut our arrival time down by at least a good half hour. We reached the Dytyatky checkpoint, on the southern end of the exclusion zone, and donned the face masks we were given prior to leaving. We were visiting a nuclear wasteland, yet had to abide by the rules regarding the H1N1 scare the Ukraine was currently in the grips of. No photos were to be taken of the guards, and only a certain vantage point of the power plant. Otherwise, we were home free to click away.

After a briefing at the Interinform building and signing a document absolving the Ukrainian government of all responsibility, we were off on our guided tour. I think the photos speak for themselves, but I had many different reactions to what was before me, the biggest of which was of profound loss and desolation. To see all the abandoned homes, and to learn the residents were fooled into believing they would eventually return after a few days was something I couldn't get my head around. Let me tell you, it was one of the most amazing and surreal tours I have taken to date.

Another thing that struck me was how much Chernobyl is frozen in time. Communist slogans dot the town, and for this Cold War baby, it was fascinating to see a slice of history before me, as abandoned as the ideals it once taught the masses.

My only real fear was when we were given 20 minutes to roam inside the grammar school and I got lost. I'm not a believer in ghosts or monsters, but your mind will definitely play tricks when you're all alone in an abandoned school, especially in an abandoned town. I was more frightened of the possibility of rabid wolves entering the school, which apparently are now in the zone. I was ecstatic when I was rescued by Yuri, our fearless guide. In hindsight, if I could do it again, I'd have done the two day sleep over tour they also offer, instead of a day trip. Chernobyl is fast decaying; time is its worst enemy right now. Perhaps, I will get to visit again some other time.

One of the perks of the tour is the huge dinner they serve the group. My first full nutritious meal on Ukrainian soil, but I picked away at my food. I keep pretty much vegetarian when traveling, to avoid stomach problems, but almost all of it was meat or some fish I couldn't identify. Clearly, for all my love of the former Soviet Union, Russian food is definitely not one of them. We were driven back to the checkpoint to the contamination center and checked for radiation levels. It was bit nerve racking as with my luck, I was worried about experiencing a Silkwood moment, but we were all declared radiation free.

I dozed off on the ride back to Kiev, but not before chatting away with some of my tour mates. A few us joked that although most of us were suffering some form of fatigue or jet lag, we would subconsciously attribute it to any residual effects of being in Chernobyl. I had to laugh because I had a huge jet lag headache and my thoughts began to wander and wait for a bloody nose and bleeding gums (a sign of radiation sickness).

Day 1 - Ukraine

November 21 -

Arriving in Warsaw early, there was not enough time in between transiting to take advantage of the free showers they have there. The best shower ever is washing a long haul flight off your body. Thankfully, the next flight to Kiev was quick. Some of the passengers were wearing masks because swine flu was an epidemic in the Ukraine. Nice. Immigration officers at KBP were gruff but efficient. Kiev airport was small and easy to manage save for the numerous shysters asking if you want a taxi. It also looks like a tacky train station. I had already done my research and knew about the super cheap Atass bus that brings you to the Voksal train and metro station.

I found the bus right out front, paid the 25UAH and was on my way. Upon reaching the train station, and realizing that walking to the hostel would be out of the question, I resigned myself to the metro. Not that I was afraid, but since I was lugging so much stuff, I was worried about crowds and watching my belongings. It turned out to be easy-peasy. All those metro rides in Russia came back to memory. Since Kiev was formally under the USSR, it has the same exact infrastructure.

Finding the hostel was also easy from the Teatralana stop, but I learned upon arriving there were actually two locations and that I would have to stay at the second hostel across the street. This turned out to be the better option as the original location was deep inside a courtyard and and occupied by a group of young school children. I settled into my own room and met up with the rest of the hostel guests: a couple from Poland, another couple from The Netherlands, a young man from the US, and two men from Finland. Jet lag finally did me in and I called it a night.

The Itinerary

JFK -> KBP -> KRK -> JFK

After my whirlwind visit to Russia last year, I figured I'd top myself with a trip to the Ukraine next month. It's the annual November trip, which seems to build as the years go on, and this will be no different.

I'm staying primarily in Kiev with a day trip to Chernobyl. Yes, THAT Chernobyl. I will then move onto Lvov for a day before heading to Krakow, Poland - my final stop.

Needing an additional country to spend a few days in, it was a toss up between Hungary and Poland. I figure I'd do Budapest another time as part of a different trip. So, a few days in Krakow won out. I'm spending one of the days visiting Auschwitz concentration camp. My duty to humanity. I'm quite blase about it now because I honestly don't know how I'll react once I'm behind the barb wire.

I know I'll just be skimming the surface given the short time in Krakow, but it's the best I can do.

Day 4 & 5 - Stockholm

Saturday - 9/19

My Stockholm Card had until 1:30pm until it turned into a pumpkin. Unfortunately, the time limit ran out before I could visit the Stadshuset tower, but that wasn't too cost prohibitive to worry about. Still, it would've been a nice touch to have completed everything on the to-do list before the card expired.

The #47 bus going to the Vasa museum was a few blocks from the hostel. I had hemmed and hawed about visiting but was glad I did. The Vasa is an original, fully intact viking ship that sunk on her maiden voyage. It was salvaged in the 1960s and remains one of Stockholm's biggest tourist attractions. Afterwards, I visited the Nordic museum, which exhibits Swedish culture. I also wanted to visit the Titanic exhibit, but passed on it. My card didn’t cover the outrageously expensive entry fee.

I grabbed the bus back into the city center and headed down to the Stadshuset (city hall) for a tour and to go up inside the tower. I had awhile before the tour began and decided to walk around the park. A peppermint ice cream cone from one of the vendors by the water hit the spot. The city hall tour might seem boring, but it wasn't. Our tour guide was informative and had a decent sense of humor. The gold plated room with the mural of Malaren was awesome. The views of Gamla Stan and the rest of the city from the tower were gorgeous. The sunny weather made it even more pleasant.

That night, I went back in to one of the candy stores that are all over Stockholm and stocked up on Swedish Fish - the original fishies. Once you try these you will never go back to the stuff manufactured for American palettes. In addition to being pastel colored, they are also fruit based and less sickly sweet than their American counterparts. Being less sickly sweet, of course, I consumed tons of them. This is another thing I love about Scandinavian countries, most of their candy is sugar based. I also consumed tons of licorice, my favorite candy, and to my joy, discovered my old friend from Denmark, licorice fudge.

Sunday - 9/20

Thankfully, I checked in the previous night or else I know I would have been stuck with the dreaded middle seat. The flight was full but airport check-in was a breeze. It was as uneventful a flight as one anticipates. The only hassle was the Air Tran at Newark.

This trip to Stockholm was short but sweet. I think four full days is enough in the city, perhaps five would have been better if adding a day trip. I was disappointed that I couldn't visit one of the archipelago islands, but welcomed the extra day in Stockholm. As promised a few years ago, I would visit Stockholm before offering up any judgment of the country. My day trip to Helsingborg and Malmo a few years ago was sort of blah, but this particular trip renewed my faith in Sweden.

Day 3 - Stockholm

Friday - 9/18

I received another disappointment when I headed to the Radhus to discover it was closed for the day. There was a huge EU gathering for a meeting on climate control. I had forgotten about the royal armoury. Don’t know how I missed it, so I walked back to the royal palace. The armoury was cool, and seeing the crowns belonging to the king and queen were magnificent. Prior to that I had wanted to see the Riddenhouse church only to find it was closed for the winter. I figured I'd pop into the House of Nobility as well, seeing that it was free.

Finally, more of Gamla Stan and it was back to Sodermalm. Sodermalm is hands down, my favorite area of Stockholm. I can't explain why. It's probably because it's the more relaxed and artsy part of the city. Also, the fact that it's loaded with locals could be a major factor as well. I was able to browse some thrift shops and check out the vibe.

On every trip, I allow myself one nice restaurant to eat in. I'm a budget traveler and since it's difficult to keep a normal schedule on vacation, I try and eat at the cheapest places possible. The hostel charged for breakfast but had a kitchen for guests to prepare their own meals. I had already taken a trip to the supermarket to stock up on breakfast supplies, so was at least saving for my breakfast. The place I chose for my splurge meal was Pelikan. I ordered the Swedish meatballs. They were delish! Stuffed from my meal, I explored some more, walking through the park and paying a quick visit to the village of Kakar.

Day 2 - Stockholm

Thursday - 9/17

I wanted so badly to visit Drottningholm Slott (Palace) in the suburb of Ekero. It was such a beautiful day. Getting there is easy. You take the tunnelbanna (metro) out to the Brommaplan stop and catch any of the several busses that say Drottningham. It's an easy journey. I arrived and reserved a tour for the theater. This was definitely the highlight of my visit to the palace. Built in the 17th century, the theater saw its heaviest use during the reign of King Gustav III. Once he was murdered, the theater was closed up and abandoned for over 100 years. In the early 20th century, it was "rediscovered" and reopened for concerts and plays using the original sets and props of centuries prior.

The tour guide was excellent, and at one point requested two volunteers. I jumped at the chance and myself and another person were taken behind the stage to do a demonstration of the ancient equipment. The guide put me in charge of making "thunder", involving pulling a rope up and down which sets off clapping boards above. The other volunteer made "rain" by turning a wheel covered in canvas. Being behind the scenes was an awesome experience and I'm glad to have jumped at the chance to participate.

Touring the palace was just as beautiful as the palace in the city, only more green as there were several gardens and tons of parkland to explore. I got caught out severely for snapping an photo inside the Chinese Pavillion. Sadly, I couldn't resist myself. The guard down the hall must've had the hearing of a dog to have heard my camera snap (without flash) and I was rightfully scolded.

I finished up as it was getting late, taking photos and trying to see as much possible. I had a late lunch of steamed vegetables in the palace café that was tasty, but not really a hearty meal. I caught the bus back to the tunnelbanna and arrived back in Stockholm in time to refresh and visit the Stadmuseum. This is the museum of Stockholm and was quite small for all the city had experienced. Still, it was interesting. I also took the elevator up the Katarinahissen for some great city views. I walked around Sodermalm because I wanted to check out a Café String. Walking the neighborhood was cool and just my kind of place to roam. It was nighttime, but Stockholm is ultra safe, so no problems.

Café String stops serving food an hour before closing so I could only have a beverage. I was hungry at this point so when I left I resorted to a place near the hostel that wasn't worth the money I paid for the meal. My hostel roommates were from all over Europe, including one who I don't recall ever leaving the room the entire time I was there.

Day 1 - Stockholm

Wednesday - 9/16

The flight to Arlanda was over two hours late. Not a good start, but it worked itself out. Several of us were given $10 vouchers to purchase food. However, these were handed out about 15 minutes prior to boarding. I had already eaten, so it was useless, save for buying some water to have with me at my destination.

The actual flight was smooth, we arrived a bit earlier than scheduled. Arlanda is compact and easy to navigate. I purchased both my Stockholm Card and a round trip ticket for the Arlanda Express. Being a student yielded me a huge discount on the train. Arriving in central Stockholm about 20 minutes later, the hostel was easy to find as it was only just a few blocks from the express station. I checked in, stored my luggage, and took a shower. Now, I was ready to explore, until jet lag would eventually do me in.

Gamla Stan is a fascinating and dare I say, quaint. It's also the neighborhood most populated by tourists, including yours truly. The area is dominated by souvenir stores, yet manages to retain its old time feel. I got my start first by touring the Stockholm Palace. Although Sweden is now a quiet, neutral power, it once put fear in the hearts of many nations. It's military might was only rivaled by its riches, of which can be seen throughout the palace. The royal family doesn't reside here anymore, choosing to live in Drottningholm Slott. It was a cool experience and anyone who knows me is aware that anytime I'm in Europe, I look for a royalty aspect to the trip. Downstairs from the palace, housed in a museum, are some of the crown jewels, including the crowns of the current King and Queen. The former Queen Louise's court dress was also on display.

My next stop was to Storkyrkan (The Great Church), the oldest church in Gamla Stan. I was to learn later that night, to my dismay, that I missed a visit by the royal family only a few hours after I left the church. They were there for a quick presentation and I missed it. My one chance to get a glimpse of royalty was dashed by bad timing.

Afterwards, upon recommendation from many books and online forums, I enjoyed a hot chocolate at Choklakoppen. I chose the white chocolate because it was in a book about world recipes for hot chocolate I own and peaked my curiosity. I wasn't disappointed. It was gorgeous, especially with the ample slice of orange complementing the flavor. Sitting in Stortorget on such a beautiful day, people watching, made me realize how lucky I was to be here.

By now, I was waning from jet lag so I walked back to the hostel and took a nap. Yes, it's the kiss of death since I was wide awake later on with nothing to do as the city completely shuts down early. Still, I felt my day was chock full of activities and wasn't disappointed in the least.

Packed. Really?

Surprisingly, I'm packed for my trip to Stockholm, leaving Tuesday evening, save for a few last minute items. I'm a bit shocked at this fact considering how far I've come. I recall my first trip overseas when I packed two suitcases to London, a trip that lasted only 5 days. I cringe at this. Over the years, I've been able to pair it down, but not without the anxiety that comes with such a chore.

This will be my third trip overseas having carry-on only. Although I doubt it coming back. I'm sure I'll pick a few things up, which is why I'm bringing my Match shopping bag for the occasion.

Still, I've come a long way.

Photos of New Orleans

Our trip to New Orleans was both busy and relaxing. It was a time for family to come together and enjoy the closeness.

With all the traveling I've been doing lately, one would be shocked at how inexpensive the weekend turned out to be. As always, there are added expenses (buying bottled water at tourist prices, etc), but for the most part, we really economized this time.

We stayed at the Courtyard Marriott on St. Charles Avenue. It was perfect in every way. Nestled inside of St Charles Avenue, but a block away from the French Quarter, it was also near to all the public transportation needed to maneuver the city. We had access to the hotel's whirlpool jacuzzi, which was a welcome sight coming back tired and weary after all those long days.

The cost of our entire hotel stay, with all the parking charges included, came to $145 each when split three ways. The cost of flights came to a little under $500 total for both my mother and I. JetBlue offers a discount for students through ISIC that I took full advantage of. Since my aunt drove in, she was able to pick up and drop us off at the airport, saving us more. Although we ate well, and a lot, no alcohol was consumed. This helped keep the costs down tremendously.

Would I visit New Orleans again? Hard to say. As much as I loved it, I'm content with all I'd seen there. I'm not ruling out another visit, just had my fill of the city for awhile.

As for photos, of course, I took tons of them. You can find them here. Enjoy!

Day 3 - New Orleans

September 6

It was our last day and we wanted to take the ferry across the Mississippi River to Algiers. Actually, we didn't visit Algiers, just took the ferry there and back, for the ride. Once we returned, it began to rain again, so we popped into the French Market for a looksie. In the midst of the downpour, we noticed a car parked outside with its sunroof wide open. We stopped for drinks at the Market cafe until the rain stopped and immediately headed back into the French Quarter. We had run out of things to do and were now just walking around aimlessly, people watching and admiring the amazing architecture. I wanted to visit the Voodoo Museum, so we stopped in.

Dinner was on Royal Street at a place called the Royal restaurant. Aside from Mother's, this would be the best meal we had all weekend. I had a seafood casserole that was to die for. The service was amazing enough to call the manager over to compliment our server.

I couldn't leave New Orleans without one last stop at Cafe du Monde and insisted on going one more time, much to the chagrin of my mother, who wasn't feeling the beignets and cafe au lait. My aunt was game, but even I had to admit we were milking the experience for all it was worth. It wasn't as memorable as our first visit, but it still hit the spot.

We all called it an early night because we would have to leave early the next morning. After getting everything together and packing our things, my aunt and I decided to slip out to enjoy Banana's Foster at Brennan's, the restaurant where the dessert originated.

The next morning, my mother and I said our goodbyes to my aunt at the airport and left New Orleans. Thankfully, our flight arrived landed at JFK early. For a long weekend break, this visit was perfect. The city had been on my to-do list for a very long time and finally, I got to visit. Because it was tied into a family visit, I will always have fond memories of New Orleans and everything I experienced in my ample time there.

Day 2 - New Orleans

September 5


We had a bit of a sleep in today. After the early morning and long day of touring on the previous day, it was much welcomed.

Our day started with a ride on the Riverview streetcar, getting off at the last stop. We walked towards the Marigny district. My aunt pointed out the apartment building my uncle used to live in. It was a great neighborhood and reminded me a bit of the West Village. It began to rain so our plans to fully explore the Ninth Ward were waylaid. Of the parts we did manage to see left an imprint in our heads and hearts. The city is still rebuilding, but it seems this area is still not getting the attention it needs.

Now tired, hot, and soaking wet from the constant downpours throughout the morning, we managed to grab a bus back into the city center.

The weather turned around for the best, and after freshening up at the hotel, we hopped the Charles Avenue streetcar towards the Garden District. Despite it being incredibly hot and humid, we enjoyed all the beautiful gardens and stately Southern homes.

Tired out from a day's worth of walking, we took the streetcar back into the city center and headed back to the French Quarter for dinner. My aunt and I were feeling adventurous, but my mother, being the most basic eater I think I know, wasn't feeling the Louisiana cuisine. We settled on Pat O'Brien's restaurant because the menu had more agreeable items for her palette.

Southern Decadence was still going strong, and we weren't at a loss for entertainment. The religious nuts crashed the party and caused a bit of trouble, but didn't manage to incite the crowd, who were all too happy to poke fun. Despite this the Quarter was jumping with crowds out to celebrate. I saw the two cutest two month old ponies with dollar bills stuffed in their harnesses, and finally got excellent photos of both Jackson Square and St. Louis Cathedral at night. The one of St. Louis Cathedral was eerie, with a full moon and the shadow from the statue of Jesus completely covering the church.

Our hotel had a jacuzzi and thankfully, I brought a bathing suit. I certainly needed it by now. The next day was our last full day to explore, but sleep beckoned.

Day 1 - New Orleans

September 4

Our day started early, with little sleep as our flight arrived late the night before. We didn't get into the city until after midnight and bedtime came much later after walking a bit of Bourbon St.

Breakfast was at Mother's, recommended by my aunt. It was delicious, the portions huge, and some of the best coffee I've ever had. I suggested NOMA to get it out of the way. Of course I found a Romanov angle to this trip. NOMA houses a Faberge exhibit full of imperial belongings. The official eggs are no longer there, having packed up and continued on to their next place of residence, but there were plenty of other Faberge curios to marvel at. What disappointed me was that some of the information cards had incorrect information. For such a historical exhibit, one certainly could get the birth year of the last Tsar correct, no?

Afterwards, while walking to the bus stop on Esplanade, we happened by St Louis cemetery #3, which was roughly a block away from the museum. It was my first introduction to the famous burial grounds in New Orleans and fascinating as well. We eavesdropped on a tour guide and learned a few things we hadn't known before. Afterwards, we caught the bus downtown and watched the scenery go by, marveling at the gorgeous shotgun houses that dot the city. A few were still in need of repair after Hurricane Katrina.

We got off at the bus stop near to St Louis cemetery #1. This is the most famous of the city's cemeteries, and busy with tourists too. When we thought we were done looking around, I stumbled upon a grounds keeper giving an impromptu tour. My original suspicions were laid to rest when more and more people he corralled had joined the group. I had heard about the cemetery being unsafe without a tour group, and at first, was wary of this stranger beckoning us around the corners of mausoleums and into the little nooks and crannies of the maze-like grounds. It turned out to be the most fascinating tour, especially from someone who worked there. I left with a better perspective of the inner workings of this cemetery.

Because we were now weary and exhausted, it was decided right then and there to head down to the French Market to Café Du Monde. If you don't stop here on your visit to the city, you haven't really visited the city! The beignets, while cheap (our bill came to a whopping $10 for two coffees and three servings of beignets), were decadent - and so delicious.

With satisfied bellies (and clogged arteries), we walked around the French Quarter. Southern Decadence was going on this weekend so we got more than an eyeful. I loved every single minute of my time spent in the French Quarter. The fun, the beautiful architecture, the people watching - there was never a dull moment.

While eating breakfast at Mother's a local helped us out and suggested we eat dinner at Mandina's. Since it was recommended by a local, we jumped at the chance. However, it turned out to be our worst meal of the trip. Couple that with waiting almost an hour to get there by bus, and you had an unhappy bunch.

We turned in late, I was exhausted and needed the sleep. The city was hot and humid, not a good thing for me who favors the cold.

Getting Nearer to NOLA

So, the flights have been booked and the hotel is reserved. I bought my Streetwise map of the city and we're ready to go. Now, I'm just researching where to eat for three whole days - and then some. In New Orleans, food is big business.

Also, I'm bummed out about one thing. I may not get to see any Fabergé eggs at the NOMA, as they are out on the road touring. Still, there are some Fabergé items there and that will still be exciting. But, it seems to be the story of my life these days.

It looks like there may be three of us in New Orleans this Labor Day weekend instead of two. After e-mailing my aunt to request any NOLA tips and recommendations, she responded back a few days later asking if it were okay to join us. No problem! We could always make this a family get together. Besides, she has already visited and has previously knowledge of the city.

My brand new suitcase is on its way to being completely packed and it's sitting there collecting maps, articles, and various other items I don't dare want to forget. For a major discount, I bought a Travelpro 19" rollaboard from their discontinued Walkabout Lite 2 line. It's the most perfect thing I needed for a carry on. Yes, this will be a carry on only affair. At least for me, anyway.

As we are getting nearer to NOLA, I'm getting much more excited. Lately, I feel as if I'm not exploring much of my own country and this trip is certainly a welcome re-introduction to all that.

Stockholm, Slowly Getting There

I've just booked my accommodations and am feeling much more secure about this trip to Stockholm. I'm also becoming more comfortable about staying in hostels. There wasn't much of a second thought given about staying in one considering the outrageous expense of Scandinavian cities. I learned this in my travels to Denmark a few years ago.

I'm buying the Stockholm card; my student discount will give me a lot of savings, but not as much as the card will in the long run. I'm also splurging and using the express train from Arlanda to the city center and back. My ISIC card will give tremendous savings in that department, plus the benefit of being at the airport in under 30 minutes for an early Sunday morning flight far outweighs any difference in expense by taking the cheaper bus and risking traffic jams.

Much is still under construction, plans are loose at best. Of course, there are the basic must sees, but things such as restaurants, and lesser things are not firmed up yet. I'm still not sure about a day trip to Vaxholm or one of the other archipelago islands. I'm excited to visit Drottningholm, the residence of the royal family. Most of all, it will be fun to return to Sweden and see it under a different eye than the last time.

This trip occurs around the same time as my Ireland trip last year did. I'm still amazed at how much I accomplished in that short period of time and I'm hoping for a little of that magical pixie dust to find its way over onto this trip.