Day 6 - Ukraine

November 26 -

My ticket for the overnight train from Kiev to Lviv was for platzcart - third class accommodations. Not that I minded, especially since it only cost me about $10.00 and included clean, warm bedding. I just preferred 2nd class for some privacy. Being out in the open plan, I found the beds a bit bigger and with more room to move about, but the not too dim overhead lights and constant movement of people throughout the aisles prohibited me from having a decent night's sleep. Not good considering I had a long day in Lviv.

I became a bit of a curiosity to my fellow passengers. Not used to platzcart, but knowing some of the protocol of Russian trains, they watched my every move, especially once I took out a book. By morning, I was somewhat under the wing of my fellow passengers. Cautious as they were, they were so helpful in making sure I understood how to manage. I've said it before and I'll say it again, Russians (in this case Ukrainians) will make sure you get where you need to go. The train arrived and I was amused to hear a tinny version of the Ukrainian national anthem. My curiosity was confirmed a few minutes later when another train arrived. The Ukrainian national anthem is played for every arriving train.

I needed a shower and the Lviv train station offered this service for about 1USD, piping hot water included. I just had to supply the soap and towel. Afterwards, I checked my luggage and bought my ticket to Krakow. Thankfully, the Dutch couple back at the hostel Kiev had come from Lviv via Krakow, and gave me the heads up on which English speaking window to go to. They even gave me the rest of their Polish currency. I am forever grateful to them for making this step easier and more sane, and for the extra change. I only hope I've somehow paid it forward tenfold since then.

Now, I was ready to head out. The tram messed me up, so I ended up lost and backtracking to the train station in order to walk into town. This was a city I wasn't really prepared for, taking for granted it's size and the lack of Russian spoken here. I felt confused by the Ukrainian Cyrillic and hesitant to speak Russian for fear of offending. This was a city that had pretty much erased much of the Russian language from it's culture.

In Rynok Square, I took one of those tacky trolley rides and this turned out to be the best decision I made. It gave me my bearings and I was able to get the gist of the area. Lviv is a gorgeous city and I predict it'll begin to rival Prague, Krakow, and Budapest, as places to visit for the weekend. In fact, this was one of the reasons why the overnight between Krakow train route was created. That it is a bit shop worn is completely forgivable. It's interesting to note that Lviv was once under Habsburg control. For some reason, they respected the Ukrainians, allowing them to practice their language and culture, a departure from typical monarchs of the day. In return, the Ukrainians remained loyal subjects, and thrived as a people. It is said that Lviv is a city of firsts. It has the distinction of being the first city as you enter Eastern Europe and the first city as you enter Western Europe. Whatever appellation bestowed on the city, it was worthy of a visit, despite the short amount of time I visited.

I look back on Lviv with more fondness than I was feeling for it at the time. In my defense, I was both tired, facing an extremely long day, and a bit hesitant due to lack of information. It's a huge city but I concentrated mainly on the area around Rynok Square. Since it was Thanksgiving Day, I chose Café Veronika for my meal - grilled lamb, vegetables, wine, and cherry pie. It was amazing.

Settling in for the near midnight train, I knew this would be a rough night. Indeed, it was. For the under six hour train ride from Lviv to Krakow, I was woken up a total of four different times by immigration. Twice each by Ukrainian and Polish military. I slept with my passport, which enabled me to have a grasp of the situation when the time came. Each time, with weary tired eyes, I handed my passport over to whomever entered the room, at all times remaining in my bed save for the last immigration check when it was discovered I was American and my belongings had to be searched.

Day 5 - Ukraine

November 25 -

My last day and I had to finish up everything on my list, or live with regrets. I couldn't leave Kiev without visiting Babi Yar, sight of the genocide of thousands of Jewish citizens of Ukraine, and others. I had first learned of this atrocity in high school and had become obsessed with the story of Dina Pronicheva, a woman who barely survived the massacre. The Soviet monument to make amends is in the wrong spot. The Jewish monument is in the correct place, right near the ravines where the bodies were unceremoniously dumped. There are various other monuments to the dead too, including one erected for the children who perished here.

My visit was solemn, walking the various paths that ultimately end at the deep ravines once containing the bodies of innocents. Otherwise, aside from the area, it's a huge park and nothing much is going on in the neighborhood. In fact, since it's outside the city center, in a suburb, the area is downright Soviet in architecture.

I took the Metro to the Arsenalna stop and transferred over to a marshrutka to get to Kiev Pechersk Lavra, which is also known colloquially as the "caves monastery". I honestly don't think a visit to Kiev is complete without visiting the caves. Entrance was through the Trinity Gate, and I visited the various churches in both the upper and lower lavras. Women must have their heads covered to enter, so there is no shortage of scarf sellers outside the gates.

To get into the caves, you pay the entrance fee by purchasing a candle to light the way. The descent into the caves are dark, narrow, and extremely claustrophobic. To be honest, although I dealt well with the catacombs in Paris, these caves freaked me out. The amount of glass topped coffins containing saints with their mummified remains sticking out from under the heavy brocade they were covered in, was bone chilling. I found myself afraid to be alone in the many alcoves that contained these open coffins. Also, the religious fervency was shocking for me coming from such a low key Protestant background. I also had to be careful my scarf didn't set on fire from all the candles being waved around by others. I was sad to have missed out on visiting Rodina Mat, but I could see her from the Lavra. It was getting too dark at this point.

I had a quick bite to eat at a café next to the Arsenalna metro. Checking my watch, I could see that I wasn't going to make it to the Chernobyl museum. This disappointed me, but hey, I had been to the actual site so didn't harp on the missed opportunity. Still, it would've been nice to see more perspective about this tragedy.

I was sad to leave Kiev, which was definitely a city I took for granted in terms of actual sightseeing opportunities. I thought I'd only need a few days but was surprised that I didn't even scratch the surface.

Day 4 - Ukraine

November 24 -

I took the metro to the area around the Mariyinsky Palace. Arsenalna metro is one of the deepest subways in the world. Taking photos is a no-no here, so imagine how tense I became when I got caught taking one and was duly reprimanded by a metro worker. Thankfully, it's the Ukraine, not Russia, or else I'd be bribing the police to get me out of this jam. Mariyinsky Palace was beautiful (lovely shade of blue), but as luck would have it, under reconstruction. Still, I could see much of it through the fence and I snapped tons of photos.

Checking out the Mariyinsky park and all the stray dogs, it was sunny out this morning, the weather was nice. There was a tiny religious village set up in the park and I couldn't make heads or tails what it was all about. I do know there was an Orthodox cross erected directly in front of the Parliament building, which sits next to the palace. I'm sure there was an explanation, but at that moment, it was all completely lost on me.

Back to the hostel for breakfast. Omlettes again. Now I discovered why they were so delicious. Oil. The omlettes were cooked in about an inch of vegetable oil. Explains why I was sick the entire trip. Almost everything I consumed was cooked in tons of oil. Out again, and my day continued with a stop at the Golden Gate. Since I had walked this route the previous night, I felt like a pro now. St. Sophia Cathedral was gorgeous and the climb to the top of the Bell Tower rewarded me with the most magnificent views of St. Michael's just down the road. It was so beautiful outside and I got some fantastic photos. I walked over to St. Michael's and then headed to Andrew's Descent.

Other than St. Andrew's church, which the area is named for, the Andriyivskyy Descent wasn't exactly the most thrilling aspect of the neighborhood. From what I had read, I initially gathered that it would be some funky, cool place to hangout. To tell you the truth, it was all just meh. The real challenge were the people running the souvenir stalls. Of course, they speak perfect English. And the hard sell was tiring. Since this is the only area where you can get the best selection of cheap souvenirs, I had to deal with it. I did walk away with some gorgeous, and super cheap, colorful easter eggs (Pysanka). I ate at a traditional Ukrainian restaurant and headed down the hill to check out the neighborhood of Podil. Podil was the more funky area and where I saw more locals, cafes, nightclubs, and loads of kiosks selling almost everything one could think of. Kievans buy everything kiosks.

Having walked for eons that day, I headed back to the hostel and asked the manager to write out my train instructions in Russian. Apparently, the written request I came armed with wasn't sufficient enough when I originally tried to buy tickets to Lviv. The manager explained that nothing was wrong with them, just that the ticket booth women were too "stupid" (her words!) and needed only the basic of information. Thankfully, this new train ticket request worked because I had my tickets in just a few minutes, including, I think, a slight smile from the woman working the booth.

Day 3 - Ukraine

November 23 -

This was my "get out and explore the city" day. I find these are needed to get my bearings and to check out the architecture, which in Kiev, is unbelievably gorgeous. The city reminded me so much of St. Petersburg, Russia. I felt at times I had gone back to my most favorite city. Central Kiev was easy to navigate. Again, knowing Cyrillic and a bit of Russian made it a breeze. I walked west and then south of the hostel, passing by the brightly painted red building of Kiev University. In 1901, Tsar Nicholas II ordered the building to be painted red so that students protesting against conscription would be reminded of the embarrassment (and blush red) at their actions. I made my way down and around, so to speak.

The last statue of Lenin was covered over, getting a makeover. The Ukrainian Communist Party was there collecting funds for the refurbishing. Besarabsky Market was chock full of fresh meat and produce, plus tons of caviar. I'm sure I was ripped off buying the most juicy, delicious, melt in your mouth, blackberries, but I can deal with that. The House with Chimaeras was wicked cool. The overcast sky made the house more Gothic in appearance. Now hungry, I was at a loss for food and wasn't feeling the national cuisine. Admittedly, I ended up eating at T.G.I. Friday's twice during my entire stay. After going back to rest and chat with my fellow hostel mates, I headed back out to see if there were any night shots of the Mariyinsky Palace. Unfortunately, no. But I made the same route I would do the next morning and it was nice to get some night shots of the cathedrals and of the city.

I went grocery shopping (surprise!) and bought a bag full of goodies. A bottle of premium vodka, a bottle of water, yogurt drink, box of chocolates, and a huge bag of Kasha came to a total of just under $10. I also noticed the immense drinking that goes on in this city, especially amongst teenagers. Alcohol is really cheap here, with one entire wall in the supermarket devoted to malt liquor. Most of the people in line that time of night were young people purchasing cans of the stuff. With the Ukraine breaking from it's Soviet past and ready to prosper, I worry for those developing drinking problems today who may end up missing out tomorrow.

Day 2 - Ukraine

November 22 -

This was one of the important days. The day that necessitated sneaking everything on the plane as carry-on for fear of missing my short connection in Warsaw to Kiev. I took part in a day trip to Chernobyl. Having stumbled across the tour years ago, over time, subsequent searches brought up photo albums of other people's day trips and my interest in taking the tour grew exponentially over time. The exposure to radiation was minimal (about one transatlantic flight, I was told) and I definitely armed myself with all the pertinent information. Finally convinced I would be okay, I looked forward to the tour and certainly wasn't disappointed.

I arrived at Independence Square with my passport (required) and waited, watching my fellow travelers trickle in. Grabbing a quick breakfast of blini at the McDonald's nearby, I was ready for the day. I also purchased kitten pies, but made an embarrassing mistake. I'm so used to asking "сколько" ("how much?"), but became visibly confused when the tables were turned and I was asked the question. Turns out, the pies were sold by the pound. The woman behind the counter was inquiring how many I wanted by the pound. Anyway. The ride to Chernobyl was quicker than stated in the tour information, our driver navigated the roads like a maniac. A good part of the main city streets in Kiev are cobblestone, which made for an interesting and bumpy ride. The villages we passed looked like some of the poorest in Ukraine.

The fast and crazy driving cut our arrival time down by at least a good half hour. We reached the Dytyatky checkpoint, on the southern end of the exclusion zone, and donned the face masks we were given prior to leaving. We were visiting a nuclear wasteland, yet had to abide by the rules regarding the H1N1 scare the Ukraine was currently in the grips of. No photos were to be taken of the guards, and only a certain vantage point of the power plant. Otherwise, we were home free to click away.

After a briefing at the Interinform building and signing a document absolving the Ukrainian government of all responsibility, we were off on our guided tour. I think the photos speak for themselves, but I had many different reactions to what was before me, the biggest of which was of profound loss and desolation. To see all the abandoned homes, and to learn the residents were fooled into believing they would eventually return after a few days was something I couldn't get my head around. Let me tell you, it was one of the most amazing and surreal tours I have taken to date.

Another thing that struck me was how much Chernobyl is frozen in time. Communist slogans dot the town, and for this Cold War baby, it was fascinating to see a slice of history before me, as abandoned as the ideals it once taught the masses.

My only real fear was when we were given 20 minutes to roam inside the grammar school and I got lost. I'm not a believer in ghosts or monsters, but your mind will definitely play tricks when you're all alone in an abandoned school, especially in an abandoned town. I was more frightened of the possibility of rabid wolves entering the school, which apparently are now in the zone. I was ecstatic when I was rescued by Yuri, our fearless guide. In hindsight, if I could do it again, I'd have done the two day sleep over tour they also offer, instead of a day trip. Chernobyl is fast decaying; time is its worst enemy right now. Perhaps, I will get to visit again some other time.

One of the perks of the tour is the huge dinner they serve the group. My first full nutritious meal on Ukrainian soil, but I picked away at my food. I keep pretty much vegetarian when traveling, to avoid stomach problems, but almost all of it was meat or some fish I couldn't identify. Clearly, for all my love of the former Soviet Union, Russian food is definitely not one of them. We were driven back to the checkpoint to the contamination center and checked for radiation levels. It was bit nerve racking as with my luck, I was worried about experiencing a Silkwood moment, but we were all declared radiation free.

I dozed off on the ride back to Kiev, but not before chatting away with some of my tour mates. A few us joked that although most of us were suffering some form of fatigue or jet lag, we would subconsciously attribute it to any residual effects of being in Chernobyl. I had to laugh because I had a huge jet lag headache and my thoughts began to wander and wait for a bloody nose and bleeding gums (a sign of radiation sickness).

Day 1 - Ukraine

November 21 -

Arriving in Warsaw early, there was not enough time in between transiting to take advantage of the free showers they have there. The best shower ever is washing a long haul flight off your body. Thankfully, the next flight to Kiev was quick. Some of the passengers were wearing masks because swine flu was an epidemic in the Ukraine. Nice. Immigration officers at KBP were gruff but efficient. Kiev airport was small and easy to manage save for the numerous shysters asking if you want a taxi. It also looks like a tacky train station. I had already done my research and knew about the super cheap Atass bus that brings you to the Voksal train and metro station.

I found the bus right out front, paid the 25UAH and was on my way. Upon reaching the train station, and realizing that walking to the hostel would be out of the question, I resigned myself to the metro. Not that I was afraid, but since I was lugging so much stuff, I was worried about crowds and watching my belongings. It turned out to be easy-peasy. All those metro rides in Russia came back to memory. Since Kiev was formally under the USSR, it has the same exact infrastructure.

Finding the hostel was also easy from the Teatralana stop, but I learned upon arriving there were actually two locations and that I would have to stay at the second hostel across the street. This turned out to be the better option as the original location was deep inside a courtyard and and occupied by a group of young school children. I settled into my own room and met up with the rest of the hostel guests: a couple from Poland, another couple from The Netherlands, a young man from the US, and two men from Finland. Jet lag finally did me in and I called it a night.

The Itinerary

JFK -> KBP -> KRK -> JFK

After my whirlwind visit to Russia last year, I figured I'd top myself with a trip to the Ukraine next month. It's the annual November trip, which seems to build as the years go on, and this will be no different.

I'm staying primarily in Kiev with a day trip to Chernobyl. Yes, THAT Chernobyl. I will then move onto Lvov for a day before heading to Krakow, Poland - my final stop.

Needing an additional country to spend a few days in, it was a toss up between Hungary and Poland. I figure I'd do Budapest another time as part of a different trip. So, a few days in Krakow won out. I'm spending one of the days visiting Auschwitz concentration camp. My duty to humanity. I'm quite blase about it now because I honestly don't know how I'll react once I'm behind the barb wire.

I know I'll just be skimming the surface given the short time in Krakow, but it's the best I can do.