Saturday, September 26, 2009

Day 4 & 5 - Stockholm

Saturday - 9/19

My Stockholm Card had until 1:30pm until it turned into a pumpkin. Unfortunately, the time limit ran out before I could visit the Stadshuset tower, but that wasn't too cost prohibitive to worry about. Still, it would've been a nice touch to have completed everything on the to-do list before the card expired.

The #47 bus going to the Vasa museum was a few blocks from the hostel. I had hemmed and hawed about visiting but was glad I did. The Vasa is an original, fully intact viking ship that sunk on her maiden voyage. It was salvaged in the 1960s and remains one of Stockholm's biggest tourist attractions. Afterwards, I visited the Nordic museum, which exhibits Swedish culture. I also wanted to visit the Titanic exhibit, but passed on it. My card didn’t cover the outrageously expensive entry fee.

I grabbed the bus back into the city center and headed down to the Stadshuset (city hall) for a tour and to go up inside the tower. I had awhile before the tour began and decided to walk around the park. A peppermint ice cream cone from one of the vendors by the water hit the spot. The city hall tour might seem boring, but it wasn't. Our tour guide was informative and had a decent sense of humor. The gold plated room with the mural of Malaren was awesome. The views of Gamla Stan and the rest of the city from the tower were gorgeous. The sunny weather made it even more pleasant.

That night, I went back in to one of the candy stores that are all over Stockholm and stocked up on Swedish Fish - the original fishies. Once you try these you will never go back to the stuff manufactured for American palettes. In addition to being pastel colored, they are also fruit based and less sickly sweet than their American counterparts. Being less sickly sweet, of course, I consumed tons of them. This is another thing I love about Scandinavian countries, most of their candy is sugar based. I also consumed tons of licorice, my favorite candy, and to my joy, discovered my old friend from Denmark, licorice fudge.

Sunday - 9/20

Thankfully, I checked in the previous night or else I know I would have been stuck with the dreaded middle seat. The flight was full but airport check-in was a breeze. It was as uneventful a flight as one anticipates. The only hassle was the Air Tran at Newark.

This trip to Stockholm was short but sweet. I think four full days is enough in the city, perhaps five would have been better if adding a day trip. I was disappointed that I couldn't visit one of the archipelago islands, but welcomed the extra day in Stockholm. As promised a few years ago, I would visit Stockholm before offering up any judgment of the country. My day trip to Helsingborg and Malmo a few years ago was sort of blah, but this particular trip renewed my faith in Sweden.

Friday, September 25, 2009

Day 3 - Stockholm

Friday - 9/18

I received another disappointment when I headed to the Radhus to discover it was closed for the day. There was a huge EU gathering for a meeting on climate control. I had forgotten about the royal armoury. Don’t know how I missed it, so I walked back to the royal palace. The armoury was cool, and seeing the crowns belonging to the king and queen were magnificent. Prior to that I had wanted to see the Riddenhouse church only to find it was closed for the winter. I figured I'd pop into the House of Nobility as well, seeing that it was free.

Finally, more of Gamla Stan and it was back to Sodermalm. Sodermalm is hands down, my favorite area of Stockholm. I can't explain why. It's probably because it's the more relaxed and artsy part of the city. Also, the fact that it's loaded with locals could be a major factor as well. I was able to browse some thrift shops and check out the vibe.

On every trip, I allow myself one nice restaurant to eat in. I'm a budget traveler and since it's difficult to keep a normal schedule on vacation, I try and eat at the cheapest places possible. The hostel charged for breakfast but had a kitchen for guests to prepare their own meals. I had already taken a trip to the supermarket to stock up on breakfast supplies, so was at least saving for my breakfast. The place I chose for my splurge meal was Pelikan. I ordered the Swedish meatballs. They were delish! Stuffed from my meal, I explored some more, walking through the park and paying a quick visit to the village of Kakar.

Thursday, September 24, 2009

Day 2 - Stockholm

Thursday - 9/17

I wanted so badly to visit Drottningholm Slott (Palace) in the suburb of Ekero. It was such a beautiful day. Getting there is easy. You take the tunnelbanna (metro) out to the Brommaplan stop and catch any of the several busses that say Drottningham. It's an easy journey. I arrived and reserved a tour for the theater. This was definitely the highlight of my visit to the palace. Built in the 17th century, the theater saw its heaviest use during the reign of King Gustav III. Once he was murdered, the theater was closed up and abandoned for over 100 years. In the early 20th century, it was "rediscovered" and reopened for concerts and plays using the original sets and props of centuries prior.

The tour guide was excellent, and at one point requested two volunteers. I jumped at the chance and myself and another person were taken behind the stage to do a demonstration of the ancient equipment. The guide put me in charge of making "thunder", involving pulling a rope up and down which sets off clapping boards above. The other volunteer made "rain" by turning a wheel covered in canvas. Being behind the scenes was an awesome experience and I'm glad to have jumped at the chance to participate.

Touring the palace was just as beautiful as the palace in the city, only more green as there were several gardens and tons of parkland to explore. I got caught out severely for snapping an photo inside the Chinese Pavillion. Sadly, I couldn't resist myself. The guard down the hall must've had the hearing of a dog to have heard my camera snap (without flash) and I was rightfully scolded.

I finished up as it was getting late, taking photos and trying to see as much possible. I had a late lunch of steamed vegetables in the palace café that was tasty, but not really a hearty meal. I caught the bus back to the tunnelbanna and arrived back in Stockholm in time to refresh and visit the Stadmuseum. This is the museum of Stockholm and was quite small for all the city had experienced. Still, it was interesting. I also took the elevator up the Katarinahissen for some great city views. I walked around Sodermalm because I wanted to check out a Café String. Walking the neighborhood was cool and just my kind of place to roam. It was nighttime, but Stockholm is ultra safe, so no problems.

Café String stops serving food an hour before closing so I could only have a beverage. I was hungry at this point so when I left I resorted to a place near the hostel that wasn't worth the money I paid for the meal. My hostel roommates were from all over Europe, including one who I don't recall ever leaving the room the entire time I was there.

Tuesday, September 22, 2009

Day 1 - Stockholm

Wednesday - 9/16

The flight to Arlanda was over two hours late. Not a good start, but it worked itself out. Several of us were given $10 vouchers to purchase food. However, these were handed out about 15 minutes prior to boarding. I had already eaten, so it was useless, save for buying some water to have with me at my destination.

The actual flight was smooth, we arrived a bit earlier than scheduled. Arlanda is compact and easy to navigate. I purchased both my Stockholm Card and a round trip ticket for the Arlanda Express. Being a student yielded me a huge discount on the train. Arriving in central Stockholm about 20 minutes later, the hostel was easy to find as it was only just a few blocks from the express station. I checked in, stored my luggage, and took a shower. Now, I was ready to explore, until jet lag would eventually do me in.

Gamla Stan is a fascinating and dare I say, quaint. It's also the neighborhood most populated by tourists, including yours truly. The area is dominated by souvenir stores, yet manages to retain its old time feel. I got my start first by touring the Stockholm Palace. Although Sweden is now a quiet, neutral power, it once put fear in the hearts of many nations. It's military might was only rivaled by its riches, of which can be seen throughout the palace. The royal family doesn't reside here anymore, choosing to live in Drottningholm Slott. It was a cool experience and anyone who knows me is aware that anytime I'm in Europe, I look for a royalty aspect to the trip. Downstairs from the palace, housed in a museum, are some of the crown jewels, including the crowns of the current King and Queen. The former Queen Louise's court dress was also on display.

My next stop was to Storkyrkan (The Great Church), the oldest church in Gamla Stan. I was to learn later that night, to my dismay, that I missed a visit by the royal family only a few hours after I left the church. They were there for a quick presentation and I missed it. My one chance to get a glimpse of royalty was dashed by bad timing.

Afterwards, upon recommendation from many books and online forums, I enjoyed a hot chocolate at Choklakoppen. I chose the white chocolate because it was in a book about world recipes for hot chocolate I own and peaked my curiosity. I wasn't disappointed. It was gorgeous, especially with the ample slice of orange complementing the flavor. Sitting in Stortorget on such a beautiful day, people watching, made me realize how lucky I was to be here.

By now, I was waning from jet lag so I walked back to the hostel and took a nap. Yes, it's the kiss of death since I was wide awake later on with nothing to do as the city completely shuts down early. Still, I felt my day was chock full of activities and wasn't disappointed in the least.

Monday, September 14, 2009

Packed. Really?

Surprisingly, I'm packed for my trip to Stockholm, leaving Tuesday evening, save for a few last minute items. I'm a bit shocked at this fact considering how far I've come. I recall my first trip overseas when I packed two suitcases to London, a trip that lasted only 5 days. I cringe at this. Over the years, I've been able to pair it down, but not without the anxiety that comes with such a chore.

This will be my third trip overseas having carry-on only. Although I doubt it coming back. I'm sure I'll pick a few things up, which is why I'm bringing my Match shopping bag for the occasion.

Still, I've come a long way.

Saturday, September 12, 2009

Photos of New Orleans

Our trip to New Orleans was both busy and relaxing. It was a time for family to come together and enjoy the closeness.

With all the traveling I've been doing lately, one would be shocked at how inexpensive the weekend turned out to be. As always, there are added expenses (buying bottled water at tourist prices, etc), but for the most part, we really economized this time.

We stayed at the Courtyard Marriott on St. Charles Avenue. It was perfect in every way. Nestled inside of St Charles Avenue, but a block away from the French Quarter, it was also near to all the public transportation needed to maneuver the city. We had access to the hotel's whirlpool jacuzzi, which was a welcome sight coming back tired and weary after all those long days.

The cost of our entire hotel stay, with all the parking charges included, came to $145 each when split three ways. The cost of flights came to a little under $500 total for both my mother and I. JetBlue offers a discount for students through ISIC that I took full advantage of. Since my aunt drove in, she was able to pick up and drop us off at the airport, saving us more. Although we ate well, and a lot, no alcohol was consumed. This helped keep the costs down tremendously.

Would I visit New Orleans again? Hard to say. As much as I loved it, I'm content with all I'd seen there. I'm not ruling out another visit, just had my fill of the city for awhile.

As for photos, of course, I took tons of them. You can find them here. Enjoy!

Day 3 - New Orleans

September 6

It was our last day and we wanted to take the ferry across the Mississippi River to Algiers. Actually, we didn't visit Algiers, just took the ferry there and back, for the ride. Once we returned, it began to rain again, so we popped into the French Market for a looksie. In the midst of the downpour, we noticed a car parked outside with its sunroof wide open. We stopped for drinks at the Market cafe until the rain stopped and immediately headed back into the French Quarter. We had run out of things to do and were now just walking around aimlessly, people watching and admiring the amazing architecture. I wanted to visit the Voodoo Museum, so we stopped in.

Dinner was on Royal Street at a place called the Royal restaurant. Aside from Mother's, this would be the best meal we had all weekend. I had a seafood casserole that was to die for. The service was amazing enough to call the manager over to compliment our server.

I couldn't leave New Orleans without one last stop at Cafe du Monde and insisted on going one more time, much to the chagrin of my mother, who wasn't feeling the beignets and cafe au lait. My aunt was game, but even I had to admit we were milking the experience for all it was worth. It wasn't as memorable as our first visit, but it still hit the spot.

We all called it an early night because we would have to leave early the next morning. After getting everything together and packing our things, my aunt and I decided to slip out to enjoy Banana's Foster at Brennan's, the restaurant where the dessert originated.

The next morning, my mother and I said our goodbyes to my aunt at the airport and left New Orleans. Thankfully, our flight arrived landed at JFK early. For a long weekend break, this visit was perfect. The city had been on my to-do list for a very long time and finally, I got to visit. Because it was tied into a family visit, I will always have fond memories of New Orleans and everything I experienced in my ample time there.

Wednesday, September 09, 2009

Day 2 - New Orleans

September 5


We had a bit of a sleep in today. After the early morning and long day of touring on the previous day, it was much welcomed.

Our day started with a ride on the Riverview streetcar, getting off at the last stop. We walked towards the Marigny district. My aunt pointed out the apartment building my uncle used to live in. It was a great neighborhood and reminded me a bit of the West Village. It began to rain so our plans to fully explore the Ninth Ward were waylaid. Of the parts we did manage to see left an imprint in our heads and hearts. The city is still rebuilding, but it seems this area is still not getting the attention it needs.

Now tired, hot, and soaking wet from the constant downpours throughout the morning, we managed to grab a bus back into the city center.

The weather turned around for the best, and after freshening up at the hotel, we hopped the Charles Avenue streetcar towards the Garden District. Despite it being incredibly hot and humid, we enjoyed all the beautiful gardens and stately Southern homes.

Tired out from a day's worth of walking, we took the streetcar back into the city center and headed back to the French Quarter for dinner. My aunt and I were feeling adventurous, but my mother, being the most basic eater I think I know, wasn't feeling the Louisiana cuisine. We settled on Pat O'Brien's restaurant because the menu had more agreeable items for her palette.

Southern Decadence was still going strong, and we weren't at a loss for entertainment. The religious nuts crashed the party and caused a bit of trouble, but didn't manage to incite the crowd, who were all too happy to poke fun. Despite this the Quarter was jumping with crowds out to celebrate. I saw the two cutest two month old ponies with dollar bills stuffed in their harnesses, and finally got excellent photos of both Jackson Square and St. Louis Cathedral at night. The one of St. Louis Cathedral was eerie, with a full moon and the shadow from the statue of Jesus completely covering the church.

Our hotel had a jacuzzi and thankfully, I brought a bathing suit. I certainly needed it by now. The next day was our last full day to explore, but sleep beckoned.

Monday, September 07, 2009

Day 1 - New Orleans

September 4

Our day started early, with little sleep as our flight arrived late the night before. We didn't get into the city until after midnight and bedtime came much later after walking a bit of Bourbon St.

Breakfast was at Mother's, recommended by my aunt. It was delicious, the portions huge, and some of the best coffee I've ever had. I suggested NOMA to get it out of the way. Of course I found a Romanov angle to this trip. NOMA houses a Faberge exhibit full of imperial belongings. The official eggs are no longer there, having packed up and continued on to their next place of residence, but there were plenty of other Faberge curios to marvel at. What disappointed me was that some of the information cards had incorrect information. For such a historical exhibit, one certainly could get the birth year of the last Tsar correct, no?

Afterwards, while walking to the bus stop on Esplanade, we happened by St Louis cemetery #3, which was roughly a block away from the museum. It was my first introduction to the famous burial grounds in New Orleans and fascinating as well. We eavesdropped on a tour guide and learned a few things we hadn't known before. Afterwards, we caught the bus downtown and watched the scenery go by, marveling at the gorgeous shotgun houses that dot the city. A few were still in need of repair after Hurricane Katrina.

We got off at the bus stop near to St Louis cemetery #1. This is the most famous of the city's cemeteries, and busy with tourists too. When we thought we were done looking around, I stumbled upon a grounds keeper giving an impromptu tour. My original suspicions were laid to rest when more and more people he corralled had joined the group. I had heard about the cemetery being unsafe without a tour group, and at first, was wary of this stranger beckoning us around the corners of mausoleums and into the little nooks and crannies of the maze-like grounds. It turned out to be the most fascinating tour, especially from someone who worked there. I left with a better perspective of the inner workings of this cemetery.

Because we were now weary and exhausted, it was decided right then and there to head down to the French Market to Café Du Monde. If you don't stop here on your visit to the city, you haven't really visited the city! The beignets, while cheap (our bill came to a whopping $10 for two coffees and three servings of beignets), were decadent - and so delicious.

With satisfied bellies (and clogged arteries), we walked around the French Quarter. Southern Decadence was going on this weekend so we got more than an eyeful. I loved every single minute of my time spent in the French Quarter. The fun, the beautiful architecture, the people watching - there was never a dull moment.

While eating breakfast at Mother's a local helped us out and suggested we eat dinner at Mandina's. Since it was recommended by a local, we jumped at the chance. However, it turned out to be our worst meal of the trip. Couple that with waiting almost an hour to get there by bus, and you had an unhappy bunch.

We turned in late, I was exhausted and needed the sleep. The city was hot and humid, not a good thing for me who favors the cold.