Asia Trip - Day 8

Sunday, 10/12 -

My last day. Time to go home. My adventure in both Hong Kong and Taiwan was exciting, if at times frustrating. The day I was to leave, I had a lazy start considering I still had Taipei 101 to cross off my list. I trudged towards there, wishing I had done this first and gotten it out of the way so that I could perhaps do something else on my last day. I envisioned long lines and complicated people to deal with. Instead, the place had just opened for the day and myself and a bunch of Australians were part of the first group to go up for the day. I hadn't been in a building this high since the WTC and it left me feeling a bit melancholy.

The ride up is probably one of the fastest. The views up top were a bit disappointing considering Taipei doesn't have a lot of architecture to gaze at. Plus, it was overcast, so things were a blur past a few miles. Overall, I lasted about 10-15 minutes in the observatory before heading back down and calling it a day, but not without a stop at Starbucks, which is considered a high class establishment here. I became a bit weepy on the MRT thinking about all I had seen and done in this country. Also, thinking about the way in which I was able to come here made me count my blessings a lot more.

I took my time leaving the station, even stopping at the top of the escalators to take in the last of this system which helped me see much of the city. I walked at a slow pace back to the hostel, wanting to savor the feeling of being there. Saying my goodbyes and leaving the hostel, I grabbed a cab back to the railway station, but not before asking the driver to stop at Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall so I could take photos. Whatever feelings I had developed from my travels here good, bad, or indifferent, washed away and nostalgia kicked in for a country I had no intention of visiting until I dropped that sweepstakes slip into a box became a winner.

The lines at the airport were crazy and although I got there very early, it looked as if I wasn't going to make my flight. Luckily, I sought out an employee and told my tale of woe and was allowed to check in on the business line. An uneventful flight and a new discovery of Mos Burger rice burgers (freakin' delicious!!), I was lucky to snag another window seat. We got into JFK about 9:30pm, an hour earlier than expected. Still, there was the business about retrieving my luggage, clearing customs, and waiting for the express bus back to Grand Central. I didn't get in my apartment until a little before midnight, craving tap water and Mexican food. I didn't get to drink enough fluids prior to the flight home and paid the price with a lot of swelling. Boo!! Surprisingly, I had no real bout of jet lag, aside from napping in the evening a few days after I returned. Yeah!! A miracle, considering the twelve hour time difference.

This trip was different in many ways. I never intended to visit Taiwan and was surprised upon learning I had won a flight there. The language barrier was intense. Thankfully, both Taiwan and Hong Kong have excellent tourism infrastructures for English speakers. The people are wonderful and helpful, Taiwan especially. Still, I tried my best, and when it got frustrating, remembered how lucky I was to be there. Trust me, there were many frustrating moments. To be honest, I don't see myself going back to Taiwan on my own. I would go back if I were with someone who really wanted to visit, but it's not high up on my return list. Hong Kong on the other hand, I definitely want to visit again. The next time (if there is one), I would like to stay much longer and stay in Macao as well.

Originally, I shied away from other's compliments of my bravery. Looking back, I was brave. I did this alone. Aside from the help I received from M my first day, most of this trip was done on a wing and a prayer. If someone had told me years ago I would be on the back roads of a rural Taiwanese town waiting for a bus, I would've thought they were crazy. Today, I remember that feeling. The mix of fear and exhilaration that comes with conquering the unknown. I knew I'd be alright, even if I ended up back where I needed to be in a roundabout way. I am most definitely brave. Today, I own that appellation.

Asia Trip - Day 7

Saturday, 10/11 -

Today, I got out much earlier than the day before. I was excited at going to my next destination, Yehliu. Yehliu is an odd place, but not by choice. It's famous for it's curious rock formations that formed due to sea erosion. It's absolutely stunning to see this in person and it all looks like they're made from clay. In fact, the ground has a soft feeling and does resemble clay, but it's not; it's rock. Because of the frequent rain northern Taiwan was having, certain parts of the ground looked muddy. It wasn't. Instead, spots were darkened from the rain and the many craters formed millions of years ago filled with water giving off the appearance of mud.

Again, it was a long holiday weekend and there were of course, many people about. I couldn't get a single shot of the famous Queen's Head without someone being in the background. Otherwise, it was really an interesting place to visit. The area around Yehliu Geo Park is dominated by the fishing industry, but the Geo park is a definite tourist attraction. I rarely saw Westerners around Taipei, let alone English speaking Westerners. Imagine my surprise when I came across a Western English speaker working at the park. Still, I was a curiosity for most and was aware of many eyes on me while walking around.

A curious thing happened on the bus back to Taipei. I sat next to a young woman who kindly went to remove her bottle of ice tea that was in the pocket in the seat back in front of me. I motioned that it was fine to leave the bottle there, it wasn't in the way. She said she remembered me from Yehliu then offered me some of the tea. I obliged; it was tasty. She introduced herself as Amy and apologized for her English. To be honest, it was pretty good. She probably just needed a few months of immersion in the US or Canada (Taiwanese learn American-English). We spent the bus ride back to the city talking and she was excited to learn I was from NYC. She pointed out a temple we were passing by and discussed her religion.

Her parents were in the seats behind us and she translated for them. They said they admired my bravery to explore Taiwan alone. In Taipei, they got off at a different stop, but Amy's father spoke to the bus driver, telling him to make sure I got off at the right stop. The driver turned in my direction, said a loud and exaggerated "No problem!" in English, and laughed. Amy then handed me her ice tea, her mother's recipe. I was so amazed at her generosity. In NY, her kind of behavior would've had me reaching for my pepper spray, or a pen to stick in her eye. Since I'm a bit more genteel outside of my surroundings, I realized this kind of friendliness actually exists. In the sea of goodbyes to and from Amy and her parents, I forgot to ask for her e-mail address. To this day, I am disappointed at this loss.

Riding high from my trip to Yehliu and the friendly encounter I had, I decided to attempt a visit to the Maokong tea plantation. To my dismay, the gondolas to get there weren't operating, breaking down the week before in the typhoons.
Okay, I have a confession to make. Looking for the gondolas, I spotted a Ponderosa steak house. I know, trashy, but trashy good! Elated at such a discovery, I simply couldn't wait to eat there. I hadn't had a decent full sized meal since I arrived back in Taipei. You would've thought it was Peter Luger's by the way I was salivating. It was the same set up as in the US but everything had that different taste to it, even the butter had an odd flavor. The meal was pretty disappointing, but filling.

My next stop was the area of Shilin to see the night market. I preferred the ShiDa night market to this one. Shilin was mostly food oriented, but the main strip was glitzy. I was dismayed at seeing so many pet stores. For a country with such a large stray population, it was uneasy seeing so many puppies and kittens for sale. I also suspect given the sheer amount of stores lining the street that they came from mills. Quickly bored of Shilin I took the MRT to the Xinbeitou stop to visit the Beitou hot springs.

Thankfully, I packed my swimsuit in my tote bag, because by the day's end, I needed a dip in the hot springs. Taiwan is famous for its hot springs, and many people here enjoy taking the cure in the various springs that dot the country. Taipei has a few with Beitou being a popular choice for tourists. It was easy to find but time consuming to get to. This is because it's on an annex off the Danshui line of the MRT. After a bit of anxiety about protocol (where to change, where to store my belongings, etc.), I was able to have a relaxing time.

One thing not to do is immerse your head, like I did, and burn your eyes from the salty water. The sign out front informs visitors not to stay too long, for health reasons. I realized this was true because as soothing as the springs are, staying too long does make you start to feel sick. I did two hot dips and two cold, making sure to alternate between hot and cold. This excursion to the springs set me back only a few US dollars. The most I paid was for the flimsy towel they sell you at the entrance.

Back at the hostel, I packed for the flight the next day and headed back to the ShiDa night market. At this point, I had visited almost every single night I had been there. I loved walking that neighborhood with it's alleyways and narrow streets revealing the surprise of the night market ahead. I also fed a stray cat, feeling like I did my good deed, and called it a night.

Asia Trip - Day 6

Friday, 10/10 -

Today was my excursion to Jiufen (or Chiufen). I had a late start due to the temperamental washing machine I had issues with in the morning. Or rather, the washing machine had issues. Considering everything had to be air dried, and it was awfully humid outside, I wanted to get my wash out to dry in case it needed extra time. That said, I finally got out and questioned whether I had both the time, courage, and the stamina to attempt such a journey to this town.

Getting the tickets for the train to Keelung was pain free. Everyone was helpful despite the language barrier. Thankfully, thumbs up, winks, and plenty of smiles were the norm here, so I wasn't causing any cultural misunderstandings. The moment the train arrived in Keelung, it began to pour buckets of rain. I'm talking tropical storm kind of downpour. I managed to find my way to the bus to Jiufen, which was a bit of a lip biting experience, but I managed. I also had a really good book from the tourism board that showed the destination and directions in both English and Mandarin. That way, I could point to the page and people would know where I wanted to be.

Frightened that I would not know which stop to get off on, I turned around and was so happy to see a fellow Westerner named Steve. We engaged in conversation and I discovered he was living in Taiwan as an English language teacher. First off, it was nice to talk to someone from the US, second it was nice to talk to someone who was incredibly friendly and helpful, and it didn't hurt that we were going to the same location. So, if we didn't reach the correct stop, I knew I had a sympathetic shoulder to cry on! That wasn't needed however, because Jiufen was a major stop on the route and someone reminded us when to get off.

Jiufen was once a thriving Japanese mining town. Perched up in the hills, like my experience with the Peak in Hong Kong, the bus twists and turns skyward to reach it. The main draws are the stunning views and the tea houses that dot the area. These aren't quick stop in places to refresh yourself, but establishments where you sit and relax for hours on end while taking in the magnificent views. I'm antsy by nature, so I ended up walking around and stopping in a few tea houses along the way. Jiufen will also be the place where I became acquainted with squat toilets. These are not third world dirt holes, but well kept toilets that happen to be in the ground. Let's just say, it was an experience that I wasn't used to, and not going miss anytime soon.

One of the tea houses I visited, Old Town, was the most English friendly. I kept wondering why every place I stopped into questioned first whether I wanted milky tea. That is, until I remembered M telling me that this type is more preferred by Westerners. I did end up indulging in some at Babka, another tea house, and M was right; I did prefer this to the other teas I previously tried. I also tried the Taiwanese version of an Americanized pizza, which I picked at. When I wasn't in tea houses, I walked up and down the old streets, permitting myself to get lost in the maze. Jiufen is small enough to allow this. Wufan tunnel, an old mine, was cool and I didn't realize I was in front of the most iconic spot in town until I turned to see tons of people snapping photos. Apparently, this spot, the narrow stairs festooned with several red lanterns, was featured prominently in a famous movie, and the image is used in all tourism promotions.

Night was falling and I knew I had to get back to Taipei. I seem to have decided to leave around the same time as almost everyone else and since it was Taiwan National Day, a holiday, there were tons of people waiting for the bus. The line to get back to Keelung was unbelievably long. There were few buses, so it had to pick up and then drop off at the bottom before coming back up to accept more passengers. Of course, as in these situations, it began to pour buckets again. I stood out there about an hour, moving at a snails pace, before it was my turn to board the bus back to Keelung and catch my train for Taipei.