Saturday, September 12, 2009

Day 3 - New Orleans

September 6

It was our last day and we wanted to take the ferry across the Mississippi River to Algiers. Actually, we didn't visit Algiers, just took the ferry there and back, for the ride. Once we returned, it began to rain again, so we popped into the French Market for a looksie. In the midst of the downpour, we noticed a car parked outside with its sunroof wide open. We stopped for drinks at the Market cafe until the rain stopped and immediately headed back into the French Quarter. We had run out of things to do and were now just walking around aimlessly, people watching and admiring the amazing architecture. I wanted to visit the Voodoo Museum, so we stopped in.

Dinner was on Royal Street at a place called the Royal restaurant. Aside from Mother's, this would be the best meal we had all weekend. I had a seafood casserole that was to die for. The service was amazing enough to call the manager over to compliment our server.

I couldn't leave New Orleans without one last stop at Cafe du Monde and insisted on going one more time, much to the chagrin of my mother, who wasn't feeling the beignets and cafe au lait. My aunt was game, but even I had to admit we were milking the experience for all it was worth. It wasn't as memorable as our first visit, but it still hit the spot.

We all called it an early night because we would have to leave early the next morning. After getting everything together and packing our things, my aunt and I decided to slip out to enjoy Banana's Foster at Brennan's, the restaurant where the dessert originated.

The next morning, my mother and I said our goodbyes to my aunt at the airport and left New Orleans. Thankfully, our flight arrived landed at JFK early. For a long weekend break, this visit was perfect. The city had been on my to-do list for a very long time and finally, I got to visit. Because it was tied into a family visit, I will always have fond memories of New Orleans and everything I experienced in my ample time there.

Wednesday, September 09, 2009

Day 2 - New Orleans

September 5


We had a bit of a sleep in today. After the early morning and long day of touring on the previous day, it was much welcomed.

Our day started with a ride on the Riverview streetcar, getting off at the last stop. We walked towards the Marigny district. My aunt pointed out the apartment building my uncle used to live in. It was a great neighborhood and reminded me a bit of the West Village. It began to rain so our plans to fully explore the Ninth Ward were waylaid. Of the parts we did manage to see left an imprint in our heads and hearts. The city is still rebuilding, but it seems this area is still not getting the attention it needs.

Now tired, hot, and soaking wet from the constant downpours throughout the morning, we managed to grab a bus back into the city center.

The weather turned around for the best, and after freshening up at the hotel, we hopped the Charles Avenue streetcar towards the Garden District. Despite it being incredibly hot and humid, we enjoyed all the beautiful gardens and stately Southern homes.

Tired out from a day's worth of walking, we took the streetcar back into the city center and headed back to the French Quarter for dinner. My aunt and I were feeling adventurous, but my mother, being the most basic eater I think I know, wasn't feeling the Louisiana cuisine. We settled on Pat O'Brien's restaurant because the menu had more agreeable items for her palette.

Southern Decadence was still going strong, and we weren't at a loss for entertainment. The religious nuts crashed the party and caused a bit of trouble, but didn't manage to incite the crowd, who were all too happy to poke fun. Despite this the Quarter was jumping with crowds out to celebrate. I saw the two cutest two month old ponies with dollar bills stuffed in their harnesses, and finally got excellent photos of both Jackson Square and St. Louis Cathedral at night. The one of St. Louis Cathedral was eerie, with a full moon and the shadow from the statue of Jesus completely covering the church.

Our hotel had a jacuzzi and thankfully, I brought a bathing suit. I certainly needed it by now. The next day was our last full day to explore, but sleep beckoned.

Monday, September 07, 2009

Day 1 - New Orleans

September 4

Our day started early, with little sleep as our flight arrived late the night before. We didn't get into the city until after midnight and bedtime came much later after walking a bit of Bourbon St.

Breakfast was at Mother's, recommended by my aunt. It was delicious, the portions huge, and some of the best coffee I've ever had. I suggested NOMA to get it out of the way. Of course I found a Romanov angle to this trip. NOMA houses a Faberge exhibit full of imperial belongings. The official eggs are no longer there, having packed up and continued on to their next place of residence, but there were plenty of other Faberge curios to marvel at. What disappointed me was that some of the information cards had incorrect information. For such a historical exhibit, one certainly could get the birth year of the last Tsar correct, no?

Afterwards, while walking to the bus stop on Esplanade, we happened by St Louis cemetery #3, which was roughly a block away from the museum. It was my first introduction to the famous burial grounds in New Orleans and fascinating as well. We eavesdropped on a tour guide and learned a few things we hadn't known before. Afterwards, we caught the bus downtown and watched the scenery go by, marveling at the gorgeous shotgun houses that dot the city. A few were still in need of repair after Hurricane Katrina.

We got off at the bus stop near to St Louis cemetery #1. This is the most famous of the city's cemeteries, and busy with tourists too. When we thought we were done looking around, I stumbled upon a grounds keeper giving an impromptu tour. My original suspicions were laid to rest when more and more people he corralled had joined the group. I had heard about the cemetery being unsafe without a tour group, and at first, was wary of this stranger beckoning us around the corners of mausoleums and into the little nooks and crannies of the maze-like grounds. It turned out to be the most fascinating tour, especially from someone who worked there. I left with a better perspective of the inner workings of this cemetery.

Because we were now weary and exhausted, it was decided right then and there to head down to the French Market to Café Du Monde. If you don't stop here on your visit to the city, you haven't really visited the city! The beignets, while cheap (our bill came to a whopping $10 for two coffees and three servings of beignets), were decadent - and so delicious.

With satisfied bellies (and clogged arteries), we walked around the French Quarter. Southern Decadence was going on this weekend so we got more than an eyeful. I loved every single minute of my time spent in the French Quarter. The fun, the beautiful architecture, the people watching - there was never a dull moment.

While eating breakfast at Mother's a local helped us out and suggested we eat dinner at Mandina's. Since it was recommended by a local, we jumped at the chance. However, it turned out to be our worst meal of the trip. Couple that with waiting almost an hour to get there by bus, and you had an unhappy bunch.

We turned in late, I was exhausted and needed the sleep. The city was hot and humid, not a good thing for me who favors the cold.