Saturday, March 28, 2009

Day 5 - Paris

March 18 -

The Louvre
I had planned on being all smug and getting away with doing the 6 minute Louvre tour. After all, don't we all just want to see the Mona Lisa and leave? Trust me, I'm no bumpkin and I love museums, but I wasn't feeling the crowds and so wanted that intimate feeling when you can be alone with art, to appreciate it fully. Apparently, my mind changed once inside. Yes, my first stop was to scramble to see Da Vinci's masterpiece. On the way, I stopped at the Winged Victory and something started to come over me. After fighting the crowds to get up front for a photo op, I realized how much more impressive the Mona Lisa would be if she weren't such an attention getter.

Then, something stunned me more - The Apollo Gallery. I think I just about had to pick myself off the floor after entering this room. The beauty before me made that Italian chick a few rooms away seem like a paint by numbers project. This room was my love, my treasure, and a new way of looking at the Louvre.

The statue of Venus de Milo was next and she didn't disappoint either. Not as popular as the Mona Lisa, Venus holds her own and garners a lot of attention as well. She's beautiful, but somehow has that sad look on her face indicating she'd rather be back home in Greece. After viewing the Canova, the Michelangelo's, and the Dutch Masters (always a fave), I was done with the Louvre.

Musee D'Orsay
D'Orsay is the modern art museum and where you're going to see the Monet's and such. Built in an old train station, it's large and airy creating a comfortable atmosphere to take your time to enjoy what's on display. My visit corresponded with lunch time and so I ate at the cafe here. I ordered the Mr. Henri tartine of goat's cheese on country bread spread with honey, and it was simply divine! Next to me sat a French woman who struck up a conversation with me. She ordered the same meal and was intent on communicating despite her limited grasp of English and my complete lack of French. Still, we both figured things out and could have a basic understanding of one another.

I stopped along the Seine to check out the boutiquistas selling books, prints, and post cards. Paris is popular for this. I bought a few art prints. One print was a water color of a Paris street scene from a woman on the bridge as I was walking over to the D'Orsay. The other was a humorous print of various cats in poses from one of the boutiquistas. Notre Dame as a backdrop combined with a sunny day made it all so perfect.

The last island to semi-explore, Ile St Louis, and I joined the line for Berthillon, a can't miss ice cream shop. The line was long, but slow. I ordered a single ("simple") cone of the pistachio, which is a popular flavor here, but seriously regretted not ordering the chocolate. I stopped to watch street musicians on the bridge before heading back to the right bank.


Arc de Triomphe

I saved the Arc for the end of the day for a reason. Timing. I wanted both day and night views. Walking up the Champs Elysees was electric but the scene was not my cup of tea. Here I experienced the rudest interaction with a French person. Up until then, I had nothing but excellent interactions and conversations with the locals. I'm certain it's the area and the reason people come away with bad experiences - a combination of tourists and locals sharing a small space, I guess.

I climbed the steps to the top of the Arc for the loveliest views of the city so far. Taking some time rest to take in the fresh air and reflect on my hectic day, I waited for nightfall. Once it arrived, I marveled at the view up the Champ Elysees and at the Eiffel Tower. Coming back down, I was witness to a military drill honoring the war dead. It was a gentle reminder to what the Arc represented to the people of France.

Famished, I'm ashamed to admit where I ate dinner that night, but it was fast, satisfying, and on the Champs Elysees - with a view too!

I got back to the hostel and had a leisurely time packing for the next day's trip to Brussels. I had such a good time so far and didn't want it to end. However, I was looking forward to Brussels and Antwerp. I don't think at any point during this trip was I yearning for it to end. There was a complete lack of holiday fatigue that usually manages to set in right about now.

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