Form Follows Fashion: Isabel & Ruben Toledo

Tuesday, March, 6, 6pm
560 7th Avenue, Parson’s Auditorium, 2nd Floor

Ever since I purchased a most interesting Vogue sewing pattern, I have been intrigued with the designers Isabel and Ruben Toledo. This was probably about 1995-6 when I chose it for a sewing workshop. Vogue features popular fashion designers for their “Attitudes” collection of patterns. The idea is that if you know how to sew, you too can wear Donna Karan or Calvin Klein couture, for a fraction of the price.


The cover of the package for the Toledo featured pattern was mesmerizing and quite different from the other designers who had contributed designs to Vogue. Exquisite pale blue and green light Shantung silk fabric outfits on headless and somewhat fingerless wooden mannequins, it was removed from the commonality of the other Vogue Pattern covers during this period. Sadly, the project ended up being a bit too much for my level of expertise at the time. I had gone a tad bit rusty after being away from the sewing room I seemed to live in during high school. I must have the pattern around somewhere (note to self, look for said pattern), but the memory of that cover combined with the feelings of “yes, I can be that cover” will probably last me a lifetime.

Out of this experience I came to admire the Toledo’s (pronounced Ta-LAY-doe). Over the years, I read blurbs about the two; this husband and wife team, and grew to admire their work and their ingenuity. There is something so raw yet tailored about their art. I don’t know if those are the proper descriptive words, but I still can’t quite put my finger on why I became drawn to them in the first place.

When I visited the Queen Maud of Norway exhibit at the Victoria & Albert Museum in 2005, I came across a brooch that Ruben had designed, which was for sale. In true form, I hemmed and hawed over the purchase (what’s new!), fought all doubts in my brain, and bought the damn thing. Much of my hesitancy was over the fact I don’t wear brooches. I still to this day don’t wear it, but I take it out once in awhile and caress it, pleased that I own a Ruben Toledo piece.

Last month, again, the Toledo’s entered my world. Harper’s Bazaar magazine featured an article about them in their February issue. Isabel was going to head up as creative director for Anne Klein. We would be seeing more of her work. I also learned that she uses her husband’s scrap artwork for thank you notes and his portrait arts as party gifts. I just so want to emulate their lifestyle!

Today, when I arrived at work, my copy of the NY Times UrbanEye daily update was waiting for me in my e-mail inbox. Glancing over it, I discovered that the Toledo’s themselves were to be featured as part of a forum for free at the Parson’s Auditorium – and it was tonight!

When I arrived, I was immediately struck by their beauty and partnership as a couple. We were first shown a 5 minute DVD which showcased a timeline of their work. Afterwards, they discussed their history and future plans. Their conversation flowed insightful and humorous. Both born in Cuba a year a part, they grew up together in New Jersey, where they met in school as young teens. According to Ruben, he knew when he met Isabel that she would become his wife.

Married young, they moved to New York and set out to conquer their dreams. Ruben got his start at the famous Fiorucci store under Andy Warhol. He stressed that he refuses to label himself as just a photographer, illustrator, fines arts, or fashion illustrator; all of which he does. Choosing to not to limit or pigeonhole his artistic abilities.

I came to realize why I admired the Toledo’s. Their tenets, I feel anyway, were somewhat in line with mine; simplicity. Love of technique and natural fabrics instead of showmanship and synthetics, Isabel got her start very young as an intern at the Met Costume Institute under Diana Vreeland, where she was involved in the restoration of garments. Amazed at the attention to detail, she set out to educate herself on the interior of the garment more than the exterior; to know the garment. Because of this, her garments are “all about the inside”, she said. Also, patterns are “thought out and orderly”, and with a “focus on construction”. According to Isabel, she approaches her work like a “mathematical equation”.

The night was exactly what I expected. I sat mesmerized, learning so much more about two people whose work I admired, and their art, but up to then didn’t know much about. I was ecstatic that I discovered this forum and was able to attend.

My only regret was that I didn’t know about this occasion ahead of time so I could search for my Toledo Vogue pattern for her to autograph. Still, it was truly a happy surprise to have found this event.

You can learn more about the Toledo's work here.