Gramercy Riff

Day 8 - Poland

2010-09-19T14:33:00.006-04:00

November 28 -

I finally got a good night's rest and an amazingly full breakfast. I was prepared for walking Krakow this day. I had made friends at the hostel and palled around with one of them for the day as we walked most of the main area of the city, called Old Town. The main square is gorgeous. We walked further out of the main area and found Oskar Schindler's factory, albeit in a very dodgy area of town. Kazmeirez was cool to explore. Krakow's Jewish quarter is fairly intact, considering the viscous history visited upon the area and its residents during the Nazi regime. Virtually nothing remains of the Jewish population, and those visiting must piece together their fateful lives through the buildings and temples that still stand as a testament to their past existence.

We ate at Ariel, laughing at the menu options. A lot of the dishes were preceded by the word "Jewish" - as in "Jewish roast beef", "Jewish stew". Otherwise, is was a nice dining experience, though naturally, a bit touristy given the area. Afterwards, with night falling around us, we checked out the Christmas market in the center of the main square. I did a bit of shopping in the old textile hall and finally called it a night.

I loved the hostel I stayed in and met some great people. Greg & Tom was an amazing place to hang out. The staff was top notch. Snacks and drinks were provided non-stop and they served an amazing breakfast. They have a no bunk beds policy, which is always nice. Close to the train station and Old Town, it was perfect, especially since I had an early morning flight and didn't want any problems getting to the train.

Day 7 - Poland

2010-09-19T13:37:00.008-04:00

November 27 -

I don't think one could ever prepare themselves for a visit to a concentration camp. Given my sorrow a few days earlier at Babi Yar, I still didn't know what to expect visiting Auschwitz. I think we all know it's an awful place, filled with the worst evil humanity could have thought to dredge up. Even the leftover remains of the barracks tells a story of extreme desperation.

I took the city bus out to Osweicim, which oddly enough, is a beautiful ride. My mind was momentarily lost in the beauty of the Polish countryside until we got closer and I was struck with the most worrisome thoughts about what kind of past these homes had. Who lived here when the camps were built? What did they think of the horrors practically occurring at their doorstep? Did they watch the many death marches to and from the camps? What did they think, or did they think at all out of fear of the reality of the situation?

The closer we got to the camp the more anxious I found myself, until we arrived and were let off in the parking lot. Entering the infamous "Arbeit macht frei" sign ("work makes free"), I had to wince at the absurdity of it all. No one was ever set free for working. Walking the rows of blockhouses I was struck at how well done this monument was to those who perished here. There are actually two Auschwitz camps. The second and bigger camp is about a mile away in Brzezinka. I walked the distance, collecting my thoughts, and arrived to deal with a completely different camp, but felt the same disturbing feelings walking amongst this hallowed graveyard.

My feelings for this visit run deep. Words cannot express how profound my experience here was. I walked through the camp silent, inwardly gasping at some of the exhibits. Rooms full of suitcases, shoes, and bags of women's hair, and a display of baby clothes - it was extremely unbearably at times. My faith in humanity was tested several times. But, I had to stay and bear witness, or else I could not be a proper witness when these crimes are questioned by those with hateful agendas.

Day 6 - Ukraine

2010-05-10T23:45:00.009-04:00

November 26 -

My ticket for the overnight train from Kiev to Lviv was for platzcart - third class accommodations. Not that I minded, especially since it only cost me about $10.00 and included clean, warm bedding. I just preferred 2nd class for some privacy. Being out in the open plan, I found the beds a bit bigger and with more room to move about, but the not too dim overhead lights and constant movement of people throughout the aisles prohibited me from having a decent night's sleep. Not good considering I had a long day in Lviv.

I became a bit of a curiosity to my fellow passengers. Not used to platzcart, but knowing some of the protocol of Russian trains, they watched my every move, especially once I took out a book. By morning, I was somewhat under the wing of my fellow passengers. Cautious as they were, they were so helpful in making sure I understood how to manage. I've said it before and I'll say it again, Russians (in this case Ukrainians) will make sure you get where you need to go. The train arrived and I was amused to hear a tinny version of the Ukrainian national anthem. My curiosity was confirmed a few minutes later when another train arrived. The Ukrainian national anthem is played for every arriving train.

I needed a shower and the Lviv train station offered this service for about 1USD, piping hot water included. I just had to supply the soap and towel. Afterwards, I checked my luggage and bought my ticket to Krakow. Thankfully, the Dutch couple back at the hostel Kiev had come from Lviv via Krakow, and gave me the heads up on which English speaking window to go to. They even gave me the rest of their Polish currency. I am forever grateful to them for making this step easier and more sane, and for the extra change. I only hope I've somehow paid it forward tenfold since then.

Now, I was ready to head out. The tram messed me up, so I ended up lost and backtracking to the train station in order to walk into town. This was a city I wasn't really prepared for, taking for granted it's size and the lack of Russian spoken here. I felt confused by the Ukrainian Cyrillic and hesitant to speak Russian for fear of offending. This was a city that had pretty much erased much of the Russian language from it's culture.

In Rynok Square, I took one of those tacky trolley rides and this turned out to be the best decision I made. It gave me my bearings and I was able to get the gist of the area. Lviv is a gorgeous city and I predict it'll begin to rival Prague, Krakow, and Budapest, as places to visit for the weekend. In fact, this was one of the reasons why the overnight between Krakow train route was created. That it is a bit shop worn is completely forgivable. It's interesting to note that Lviv was once under Habsburg control. For some reason, they respected the Ukrainians, allowing them to practice their language and culture, a departure from typical monarchs of the day. In return, the Ukrainians remained loyal subjects, and thrived as a people. It is said that Lviv is a city of firsts. It has the distinction of being the first city as you enter Eastern Europe and the first city as you enter Western Europe. Whatever appellation bestowed on the city, it was worthy of a visit, despite the short amount of time I visited.

I look back on Lviv with more fondness than I was feeling for it at the time. In my defense, I was both tired, facing an extremely long day, and a bit hesitant due to lack of information. It's a huge city but I concentrated mainly on the area around Rynok Square. Since it was Thanksgiving Day, I chose Café Veronika for my meal - grilled lamb, vegetables, wine, and cherry pie. It was amazing.

Settling in for the near midnight train, I knew this would be a rough night. Indeed, it was. For the under six hour train ride from Lviv to Krakow, I was woken up a total of four different times by immigration. Twice each by Ukrainian and Polish military. I slept with my passport, which enabled me to have a grasp of the situation when the time came. Each time, with weary tired eyes, I handed my passport over to whomever entered the room, at all times remaining in my bed save for the last immigration check when it was discovered I was American and my belongings had to be searched.

Day 5 - Ukraine

2010-05-10T23:20:00.015-04:00

November 25 -

My last day and I had to finish up everything on my list, or live with regrets. I couldn't leave Kiev without visiting Babi Yar, sight of the genocide of thousands of Jewish citizens of Ukraine, and others. I had first learned of this atrocity in high school and had become obsessed with the story of Dina Pronicheva, a woman who barely survived the massacre. The Soviet monument to make amends is in the wrong spot. The Jewish monument is in the correct place, right near the ravines where the bodies were unceremoniously dumped. There are various other monuments to the dead too, including one erected for the children who perished here.

My visit was solemn, walking the various paths that ultimately end at the deep ravines once containing the bodies of innocents. Otherwise, aside from the area, it's a huge park and nothing much is going on in the neighborhood. In fact, since it's outside the city center, in a suburb, the area is downright Soviet in architecture.

I took the Metro to the Arsenalna stop and transferred over to a marshrutka to get to Kiev Pechersk Lavra, which is also known colloquially as the "caves monastery". I honestly don't think a visit to Kiev is complete without visiting the caves. Entrance was through the Trinity Gate, and I visited the various churches in both the upper and lower lavras. Women must have their heads covered to enter, so there is no shortage of scarf sellers outside the gates.

To get into the caves, you pay the entrance fee by purchasing a candle to light the way. The descent into the caves are dark, narrow, and extremely claustrophobic. To be honest, although I dealt well with the catacombs in Paris, these caves freaked me out. The amount of glass topped coffins containing saints with their mummified remains sticking out from under the heavy brocade they were covered in, was bone chilling. I found myself afraid to be alone in the many alcoves that contained these open coffins. Also, the religious fervency was shocking for me coming from such a low key Protestant background. I also had to be careful my scarf didn't set on fire from all the candles being waved around by others. I was sad to have missed out on visiting Rodina Mat, but I could see her from the Lavra. It was getting too dark at this point.

I had a quick bite to eat at a café next to the Arsenalna metro. Checking my watch, I could see that I wasn't going to make it to the Chernobyl museum. This disappointed me, but hey, I had been to the actual site so didn't harp on the missed opportunity. Still, it would've been nice to see more perspective about this tragedy.

I was sad to leave Kiev, which was definitely a city I took for granted in terms of actual sightseeing opportunities. I thought I'd only need a few days but was surprised that I didn't even scratch the surface.

Day 4 - Ukraine

2010-04-20T11:46:00.012-04:00

November 24 -

I took the metro to the area around the Mariyinsky Palace. Arsenalna metro is one of the deepest subways in the world. Taking photos is a no-no here, so imagine how tense I became when I got caught taking one and was duly reprimanded by a metro worker. Thankfully, it's the Ukraine, not Russia, or else I'd be bribing the police to get me out of this jam. Mariyinsky Palace was beautiful (lovely shade of blue), but as luck would have it, under reconstruction. Still, I could see much of it through the fence and I snapped tons of photos.

Checking out the Mariyinsky park and all the stray dogs, it was sunny out this morning, the weather was nice. There was a tiny religious village set up in the park and I couldn't make heads or tails what it was all about. I do know there was an Orthodox cross erected directly in front of the Parliament building, which sits next to the palace. I'm sure there was an explanation, but at that moment, it was all completely lost on me.

Back to the hostel for breakfast. Omlettes again. Now I discovered why they were so delicious. Oil. The omlettes were cooked in about an inch of vegetable oil. Explains why I was sick the entire trip. Almost everything I consumed was cooked in tons of oil. Out again, and my day continued with a stop at the Golden Gate. Since I had walked this route the previous night, I felt like a pro now. St. Sophia Cathedral was gorgeous and the climb to the top of the Bell Tower rewarded me with the most magnificent views of St. Michael's just down the road. It was so beautiful outside and I got some fantastic photos. I walked over to St. Michael's and then headed to Andrew's Descent.

Other than St. Andrew's church, which the area is named for, the Andriyivskyy Descent wasn't exactly the most thrilling aspect of the neighborhood. From what I had read, I initially gathered that it would be some funky, cool place to hangout. To tell you the truth, it was all just meh. The real challenge were the people running the souvenir stalls. Of course, they speak perfect English. And the hard sell was tiring. Since this is the only area where you can get the best selection of cheap souvenirs, I had to deal with it. I did walk away with some gorgeous, and super cheap, colorful easter eggs (Pysanka). I ate at a traditional Ukrainian restaurant and headed down the hill to check out the neighborhood of Podil. Podil was the more funky area and where I saw more locals, cafes, nightclubs, and loads of kiosks selling almost everything one could think of. Kievans buy everything kiosks.

Having walked for eons that day, I headed back to the hostel and asked the manager to write out my train instructions in Russian. Apparently, the written request I came armed with wasn't sufficient enough when I originally tried to buy tickets to Lviv. The manager explained that nothing was wrong with them, just that the ticket booth women were too "stupid" (her words!) and needed only the basic of information. Thankfully, this new train ticket request worked because I had my tickets in just a few minutes, including, I think, a slight smile from the woman working the booth.

Day 3 - Ukraine

2010-04-20T09:54:00.016-04:00

November 23 -

This was my "get out and explore the city" day. I find these are needed to get my bearings and to check out the architecture, which in Kiev, is unbelievably gorgeous. The city reminded me so much of St. Petersburg, Russia. I felt at times I had gone back to my most favorite city. Central Kiev was easy to navigate. Again, knowing Cyrillic and a bit of Russian made it a breeze. I walked west and then south of the hostel, passing by the brightly painted red building of Kiev University. In 1901, Tsar Nicholas II ordered the building to be painted red so that students protesting against conscription would be reminded of the embarrassment (and blush red) at their actions. I made my way down and around, so to speak.

The last statue of Lenin was covered over, getting a makeover. The Ukrainian Communist Party was there collecting funds for the refurbishing. Besarabsky Market was chock full of fresh meat and produce, plus tons of caviar. I'm sure I was ripped off buying the most juicy, delicious, melt in your mouth, blackberries, but I can deal with that. The House with Chimaeras was wicked cool. The overcast sky made the house more Gothic in appearance. Now hungry, I was at a loss for food and wasn't feeling the national cuisine. Admittedly, I ended up eating at T.G.I. Friday's twice during my entire stay. After going back to rest and chat with my fellow hostel mates, I headed back out to see if there were any night shots of the Mariyinsky Palace. Unfortunately, no. But I made the same route I would do the next morning and it was nice to get some night shots of the cathedrals and of the city.

I went grocery shopping (surprise!) and bought a bag full of goodies. A bottle of premium vodka, a bottle of water, yogurt drink, box of chocolates, and a huge bag of Kasha came to a total of just under $10. I also noticed the immense drinking that goes on in this city, especially amongst teenagers. Alcohol is really cheap here, with one entire wall in the supermarket devoted to malt liquor. Most of the people in line that time of night were young people purchasing cans of the stuff. With the Ukraine breaking from it's Soviet past and ready to prosper, I worry for those developing drinking problems today who may end up missing out tomorrow.

Day 2 - Ukraine

2010-03-03T21:55:00.038-05:00

November 22 -

This was one of the important days. The day that necessitated sneaking everything on the plane as carry-on for fear of missing my short connection in Warsaw to Kiev. I took part in a day trip to Chernobyl. Having stumbled across the tour years ago, over time, subsequent searches brought up photo albums of other people's day trips and my interest in taking the tour grew exponentially over time. The exposure to radiation was minimal (about one transatlantic flight, I was told) and I definitely armed myself with all the pertinent information. Finally convinced I would be okay, I looked forward to the tour and certainly wasn't disappointed.

I arrived at Independence Square with my passport (required) and waited, watching my fellow travelers trickle in. Grabbing a quick breakfast of blini at the McDonald's nearby, I was ready for the day. I also purchased kitten pies, but made an embarrassing mistake. I'm so used to asking "сколько" ("how much?"), but became visibly confused when the tables were turned and I was asked the question. Turns out, the pies were sold by the pound. The woman behind the counter was inquiring how many I wanted by the pound. Anyway. The ride to Chernobyl was quicker than stated in the tour information, our driver navigated the roads like a maniac. A good part of the main city streets in Kiev are cobblestone, which made for an interesting and bumpy ride. The villages we passed looked like some of the poorest in Ukraine.

The fast and crazy driving cut our arrival time down by at least a good half hour. We reached the Dytyatky checkpoint, on the southern end of the exclusion zone, and donned the face masks we were given prior to leaving. We were visiting a nuclear wasteland, yet had to abide by the rules regarding the H1N1 scare the Ukraine was currently in the grips of. No photos were to be taken of the guards, and only a certain vantage point of the power plant. Otherwise, we were home free to click away.

After a briefing at the Interinform building and signing a document absolving the Ukrainian government of all responsibility, we were off on our guided tour. I think the photos speak for themselves, but I had many different reactions to what was before me, the biggest of which was of profound loss and desolation. To see all the abandoned homes, and to learn the residents were fooled into believing they would eventually return after a few days was something I couldn't get my head around. Let me tell you, it was one of the most amazing and surreal tours I have taken to date.

Another thing that struck me was how much Chernobyl is frozen in time. Communist slogans dot the town, and for this Cold War baby, it was fascinating to see a slice of history before me, as abandoned as the ideals it once taught the masses.

My only real fear was when we were given 20 minutes to roam inside the grammar school and I got lost. I'm not a believer in ghosts or monsters, but your mind will definitely play tricks when you're all alone in an abandoned school, especially in an abandoned town. I was more frightened of the possibility of rabid wolves entering the school, which apparently are now in the zone. I was ecstatic when I was rescued by Yuri, our fearless guide. In hindsight, if I could do it again, I'd have done the two day sleep over tour they also offer, instead of a day trip. Chernobyl is fast decaying; time is its worst enemy right now. Perhaps, I will get to visit again some other time.

One of the perks of the tour is the huge dinner they serve the group. My first full nutritious meal on Ukrainian soil, but I picked away at my food. I keep pretty much vegetarian when traveling, to avoid stomach problems, but almost all of it was meat or some fish I couldn't identify. Clearly, for all my love of the former Soviet Union, Russian food is definitely not one of them. We were driven back to the checkpoint to the contamination center and checked for radiation levels. It was bit nerve racking as with my luck, I was worried about experiencing a Silkwood moment, but we were all declared radiation free.

I dozed off on the ride back to Kiev, but not before chatting away with some of my tour mates. A few us joked that although most of us were suffering some form of fatigue or jet lag, we would subconsciously attribute it to any residual effects of being in Chernobyl. I had to laugh because I had a huge jet lag headache and my thoughts began to wander and wait for a bloody nose and bleeding gums (a sign of radiation sickness).

Day 1 - Ukraine

2010-03-03T11:33:00.006-05:00

November 21 -

Arriving in Warsaw early, there was not enough time in between transiting to take advantage of the free showers they have there. The best shower ever is washing a long haul flight off your body. Thankfully, the next flight to Kiev was quick. Some of the passengers were wearing masks because swine flu was an epidemic in the Ukraine. Nice. Immigration officers at KBP were gruff but efficient. Kiev airport was small and easy to manage save for the numerous shysters asking if you want a taxi. It also looks like a tacky train station. I had already done my research and knew about the super cheap Atass bus that brings you to the Voksal train and metro station.

I found the bus right out front, paid the 25UAH and was on my way. Upon reaching the train station, and realizing that walking to the hostel would be out of the question, I resigned myself to the metro. Not that I was afraid, but since I was lugging so much stuff, I was worried about crowds and watching my belongings. It turned out to be easy-peasy. All those metro rides in Russia came back to memory. Since Kiev was formally under the USSR, it has the same exact infrastructure.

Finding the hostel was also easy from the Teatralana stop, but I learned upon arriving there were actually two locations and that I would have to stay at the second hostel across the street. This turned out to be the better option as the original location was deep inside a courtyard and and occupied by a group of young school children. I settled into my own room and met up with the rest of the hostel guests: a couple from Poland, another couple from The Netherlands, a young man from the US, and two men from Finland. Jet lag finally did me in and I called it a night.

The Itinerary

2009-10-17T18:46:00.007-04:00

JFK -> KBP -> KRK -> JFK

After my whirlwind visit to Russia last year, I figured I'd top myself with a trip to the Ukraine next month. It's the annual November trip, which seems to build as the years go on, and this will be no different.

I'm staying primarily in Kiev with a day trip to Chernobyl. Yes, THAT Chernobyl. I will then move onto Lvov for a day before heading to Krakow, Poland - my final stop.

Needing an additional country to spend a few days in, it was a toss up between Hungary and Poland. I figure I'd do Budapest another time as part of a different trip. So, a few days in Krakow won out. I'm spending one of the days visiting Auschwitz concentration camp. My duty to humanity. I'm quite blase about it now because I honestly don't know how I'll react once I'm behind the barb wire.

I know I'll just be skimming the surface given the short time in Krakow, but it's the best I can do.

Day 4 & 5 - Stockholm

2009-09-26T11:50:00.010-04:00

Saturday - 9/19

My Stockholm Card had until 1:30pm until it turned into a pumpkin. Unfortunately, the time limit ran out before I could visit the Stadshuset tower, but that wasn't too cost prohibitive to worry about. Still, it would've been a nice touch to have completed everything on the to-do list before the card expired.

The #47 bus going to the Vasa museum was a few blocks from the hostel. I had hemmed and hawed about visiting but was glad I did. The Vasa is an original, fully intact viking ship that sunk on her maiden voyage. It was salvaged in the 1960s and remains one of Stockholm's biggest tourist attractions. Afterwards, I visited the Nordic museum, which exhibits Swedish culture. I also wanted to visit the Titanic exhibit, but passed on it. My card didn’t cover the outrageously expensive entry fee.

I grabbed the bus back into the city center and headed down to the Stadshuset (city hall) for a tour and to go up inside the tower. I had awhile before the tour began and decided to walk around the park. A peppermint ice cream cone from one of the vendors by the water hit the spot. The city hall tour might seem boring, but it wasn't. Our tour guide was informative and had a decent sense of humor. The gold plated room with the mural of Malaren was awesome. The views of Gamla Stan and the rest of the city from the tower were gorgeous. The sunny weather made it even more pleasant.

That night, I went back in to one of the candy stores that are all over Stockholm and stocked up on Swedish Fish - the original fishies. Once you try these you will never go back to the stuff manufactured for American palettes. In addition to being pastel colored, they are also fruit based and less sickly sweet than their American counterparts. Being less sickly sweet, of course, I consumed tons of them. This is another thing I love about Scandinavian countries, most of their candy is sugar based. I also consumed tons of licorice, my favorite candy, and to my joy, discovered my old friend from Denmark, licorice fudge.

Sunday - 9/20

Thankfully, I checked in the previous night or else I know I would have been stuck with the dreaded middle seat. The flight was full but airport check-in was a breeze. It was as uneventful a flight as one anticipates. The only hassle was the Air Tran at Newark.

This trip to Stockholm was short but sweet. I think four full days is enough in the city, perhaps five would have been better if adding a day trip. I was disappointed that I couldn't visit one of the archipelago islands, but welcomed the extra day in Stockholm. As promised a few years ago, I would visit Stockholm before offering up any judgment of the country. My day trip to Helsingborg and Malmo a few years ago was sort of blah, but this particular trip renewed my faith in Sweden.

Day 3 - Stockholm

2009-09-25T05:41:00.004-04:00

Friday - 9/18

I received another disappointment when I headed to the Radhus to discover it was closed for the day. There was a huge EU gathering for a meeting on climate control. I had forgotten about the royal armoury. Don’t know how I missed it, so I walked back to the royal palace. The armoury was cool, and seeing the crowns belonging to the king and queen were magnificent. Prior to that I had wanted to see the Riddenhouse church only to find it was closed for the winter. I figured I'd pop into the House of Nobility as well, seeing that it was free.

Finally, more of Gamla Stan and it was back to Sodermalm. Sodermalm is hands down, my favorite area of Stockholm. I can't explain why. It's probably because it's the more relaxed and artsy part of the city. Also, the fact that it's loaded with locals could be a major factor as well. I was able to browse some thrift shops and check out the vibe.

On every trip, I allow myself one nice restaurant to eat in. I'm a budget traveler and since it's difficult to keep a normal schedule on vacation, I try and eat at the cheapest places possible. The hostel charged for breakfast but had a kitchen for guests to prepare their own meals. I had already taken a trip to the supermarket to stock up on breakfast supplies, so was at least saving for my breakfast. The place I chose for my splurge meal was Pelikan. I ordered the Swedish meatballs. They were delish! Stuffed from my meal, I explored some more, walking through the park and paying a quick visit to the village of Kakar.

Day 2 - Stockholm

2009-09-24T12:10:00.002-04:00

Thursday - 9/17

I wanted so badly to visit Drottningholm Slott (Palace) in the suburb of Ekero. It was such a beautiful day. Getting there is easy. You take the tunnelbanna (metro) out to the Brommaplan stop and catch any of the several busses that say Drottningham. It's an easy journey. I arrived and reserved a tour for the theater. This was definitely the highlight of my visit to the palace. Built in the 17th century, the theater saw its heaviest use during the reign of King Gustav III. Once he was murdered, the theater was closed up and abandoned for over 100 years. In the early 20th century, it was "rediscovered" and reopened for concerts and plays using the original sets and props of centuries prior.

The tour guide was excellent, and at one point requested two volunteers. I jumped at the chance and myself and another person were taken behind the stage to do a demonstration of the ancient equipment. The guide put me in charge of making "thunder", involving pulling a rope up and down which sets off clapping boards above. The other volunteer made "rain" by turning a wheel covered in canvas. Being behind the scenes was an awesome experience and I'm glad to have jumped at the chance to participate.

Touring the palace was just as beautiful as the palace in the city, only more green as there were several gardens and tons of parkland to explore. I got caught out severely for snapping an photo inside the Chinese Pavillion. Sadly, I couldn't resist myself. The guard down the hall must've had the hearing of a dog to have heard my camera snap (without flash) and I was rightfully scolded.

I finished up as it was getting late, taking photos and trying to see as much possible. I had a late lunch of steamed vegetables in the palace café that was tasty, but not really a hearty meal. I caught the bus back to the tunnelbanna and arrived back in Stockholm in time to refresh and visit the Stadmuseum. This is the museum of Stockholm and was quite small for all the city had experienced. Still, it was interesting. I also took the elevator up the Katarinahissen for some great city views. I walked around Sodermalm because I wanted to check out a Café String. Walking the neighborhood was cool and just my kind of place to roam. It was nighttime, but Stockholm is ultra safe, so no problems.

Café String stops serving food an hour before closing so I could only have a beverage. I was hungry at this point so when I left I resorted to a place near the hostel that wasn't worth the money I paid for the meal. My hostel roommates were from all over Europe, including one who I don't recall ever leaving the room the entire time I was there.

Day 1 - Stockholm

2009-09-22T08:06:00.009-04:00

Wednesday - 9/16

The flight to Arlanda was over two hours late. Not a good start, but it worked itself out. Several of us were given $10 vouchers to purchase food. However, these were handed out about 15 minutes prior to boarding. I had already eaten, so it was useless, save for buying some water to have with me at my destination.

The actual flight was smooth, we arrived a bit earlier than scheduled. Arlanda is compact and easy to navigate. I purchased both my Stockholm Card and a round trip ticket for the Arlanda Express. Being a student yielded me a huge discount on the train. Arriving in central Stockholm about 20 minutes later, the hostel was easy to find as it was only just a few blocks from the express station. I checked in, stored my luggage, and took a shower. Now, I was ready to explore, until jet lag would eventually do me in.

Gamla Stan is a fascinating and dare I say, quaint. It's also the neighborhood most populated by tourists, including yours truly. The area is dominated by souvenir stores, yet manages to retain its old time feel. I got my start first by touring the Stockholm Palace. Although Sweden is now a quiet, neutral power, it once put fear in the hearts of many nations. It's military might was only rivaled by its riches, of which can be seen throughout the palace. The royal family doesn't reside here anymore, choosing to live in Drottningholm Slott. It was a cool experience and anyone who knows me is aware that anytime I'm in Europe, I look for a royalty aspect to the trip. Downstairs from the palace, housed in a museum, are some of the crown jewels, including the crowns of the current King and Queen. The former Queen Louise's court dress was also on display.

My next stop was to Storkyrkan (The Great Church), the oldest church in Gamla Stan. I was to learn later that night, to my dismay, that I missed a visit by the royal family only a few hours after I left the church. They were there for a quick presentation and I missed it. My one chance to get a glimpse of royalty was dashed by bad timing.

Afterwards, upon recommendation from many books and online forums, I enjoyed a hot chocolate at Choklakoppen. I chose the white chocolate because it was in a book about world recipes for hot chocolate I own and peaked my curiosity. I wasn't disappointed. It was gorgeous, especially with the ample slice of orange complementing the flavor. Sitting in Stortorget on such a beautiful day, people watching, made me realize how lucky I was to be here.

By now, I was waning from jet lag so I walked back to the hostel and took a nap. Yes, it's the kiss of death since I was wide awake later on with nothing to do as the city completely shuts down early. Still, I felt my day was chock full of activities and wasn't disappointed in the least.

Packed. Really?

2009-09-14T11:57:00.004-04:00

Surprisingly, I'm packed for my trip to Stockholm, leaving Tuesday evening, save for a few last minute items. I'm a bit shocked at this fact considering how far I've come. I recall my first trip overseas when I packed two suitcases to London, a trip that lasted only 5 days. I cringe at this. Over the years, I've been able to pair it down, but not without the anxiety that comes with such a chore.

This will be my third trip overseas having carry-on only. Although I doubt it coming back. I'm sure I'll pick a few things up, which is why I'm bringing my Match shopping bag for the occasion.

Still, I've come a long way.

Photos of New Orleans

2009-09-12T21:26:00.016-04:00

Our trip to New Orleans was both busy and relaxing. It was a time for family to come together and enjoy the closeness.

With all the traveling I've been doing lately, one would be shocked at how inexpensive the weekend turned out to be. As always, there are added expenses (buying bottled water at tourist prices, etc), but for the most part, we really economized this time.

We stayed at the Courtyard Marriott on St. Charles Avenue. It was perfect in every way. Nestled inside of St Charles Avenue, but a block away from the French Quarter, it was also near to all the public transportation needed to maneuver the city. We had access to the hotel's whirlpool jacuzzi, which was a welcome sight coming back tired and weary after all those long days.

The cost of our entire hotel stay, with all the parking charges included, came to $145 each when split three ways. The cost of flights came to a little under $500 total for both my mother and I. JetBlue offers a discount for students through ISIC that I took full advantage of. Since my aunt drove in, she was able to pick up and drop us off at the airport, saving us more. Although we ate well, and a lot, no alcohol was consumed. This helped keep the costs down tremendously.

Would I visit New Orleans again? Hard to say. As much as I loved it, I'm content with all I'd seen there. I'm not ruling out another visit, just had my fill of the city for awhile.

As for photos, of course, I took tons of them. You can find them here. Enjoy!

Day 3 - New Orleans

2009-09-12T21:00:00.034-04:00

September 6

It was our last day and we wanted to take the ferry across the Mississippi River to Algiers. Actually, we didn't visit Algiers, just took the ferry there and back, for the ride. Once we returned, it began to rain again, so we popped into the French Market for a looksie. In the midst of the downpour, we noticed a car parked outside with its sunroof wide open. We stopped for drinks at the Market cafe until the rain stopped and immediately headed back into the French Quarter. We had run out of things to do and were now just walking around aimlessly, people watching and admiring the amazing architecture. I wanted to visit the Voodoo Museum, so we stopped in.

Dinner was on Royal Street at a place called the Royal restaurant. Aside from Mother's, this would be the best meal we had all weekend. I had a seafood casserole that was to die for. The service was amazing enough to call the manager over to compliment our server.

I couldn't leave New Orleans without one last stop at Cafe du Monde and insisted on going one more time, much to the chagrin of my mother, who wasn't feeling the beignets and cafe au lait. My aunt was game, but even I had to admit we were milking the experience for all it was worth. It wasn't as memorable as our first visit, but it still hit the spot.

We all called it an early night because we would have to leave early the next morning. After getting everything together and packing our things, my aunt and I decided to slip out to enjoy Banana's Foster at Brennan's, the restaurant where the dessert originated.

The next morning, my mother and I said our goodbyes to my aunt at the airport and left New Orleans. Thankfully, our flight arrived landed at JFK early. For a long weekend break, this visit was perfect. The city had been on my to-do list for a very long time and finally, I got to visit. Because it was tied into a family visit, I will always have fond memories of New Orleans and everything I experienced in my ample time there.

Day 2 - New Orleans

2009-09-09T16:53:00.029-04:00

September 5

We had a bit of a sleep in today. After the early morning and long day of touring on the previous day, it was much welcomed.

Our day started with a ride on the Riverview streetcar, getting off at the last stop. We walked towards the Marigny district. My aunt pointed out the apartment building my uncle used to live in. It was a great neighborhood and reminded me a bit of the West Village. It began to rain so our plans to fully explore the Ninth Ward were waylaid. Of the parts we did manage to see left an imprint in our heads and hearts. The city is still rebuilding, but it seems this area is still not getting the attention it needs.

Now tired, hot, and soaking wet from the constant downpours throughout the morning, we managed to grab a bus back into the city center.

The weather turned around for the best, and after freshening up at the hotel, we hopped the Charles Avenue streetcar towards the Garden District. Despite it being incredibly hot and humid, we enjoyed all the beautiful gardens and stately Southern homes.

Tired out from a day's worth of walking, we took the streetcar back into the city center and headed back to the French Quarter for dinner. My aunt and I were feeling adventurous, but my mother, being the most basic eater I think I know, wasn't feeling the Louisiana cuisine. We settled on Pat O'Brien's restaurant because the menu had more agreeable items for her palette.

Southern Decadence was still going strong, and we weren't at a loss for entertainment. The religious nuts crashed the party and caused a bit of trouble, but didn't manage to incite the crowd, who were all too happy to poke fun. Despite this the Quarter was jumping with crowds out to celebrate. I saw the two cutest two month old ponies with dollar bills stuffed in their harnesses, and finally got excellent photos of both Jackson Square and St. Louis Cathedral at night. The one of St. Louis Cathedral was eerie, with a full moon and the shadow from the statue of Jesus completely covering the church.

Our hotel had a jacuzzi and thankfully, I brought a bathing suit. I certainly needed it by now. The next day was our last full day to explore, but sleep beckoned.

Day 1 - New Orleans

2009-09-07T18:43:00.014-04:00

September 4

Our day started early, with little sleep as our flight arrived late the night before. We didn't get into the city until after midnight and bedtime came much later after walking a bit of Bourbon St.

Breakfast was at Mother's, recommended by my aunt. It was delicious, the portions huge, and some of the best coffee I've ever had. I suggested NOMA to get it out of the way. Of course I found a Romanov angle to this trip. NOMA houses a Faberge exhibit full of imperial belongings. The official eggs are no longer there, having packed up and continued on to their next place of residence, but there were plenty of other Faberge curios to marvel at. What disappointed me was that some of the information cards had incorrect information. For such a historical exhibit, one certainly could get the birth year of the last Tsar correct, no?

Afterwards, while walking to the bus stop on Esplanade, we happened by St Louis cemetery #3, which was roughly a block away from the museum. It was my first introduction to the famous burial grounds in New Orleans and fascinating as well. We eavesdropped on a tour guide and learned a few things we hadn't known before. Afterwards, we caught the bus downtown and watched the scenery go by, marveling at the gorgeous shotgun houses that dot the city. A few were still in need of repair after Hurricane Katrina.

We got off at the bus stop near to St Louis cemetery #1. This is the most famous of the city's cemeteries, and busy with tourists too. When we thought we were done looking around, I stumbled upon a grounds keeper giving an impromptu tour. My original suspicions were laid to rest when more and more people he corralled had joined the group. I had heard about the cemetery being unsafe without a tour group, and at first, was wary of this stranger beckoning us around the corners of mausoleums and into the little nooks and crannies of the maze-like grounds. It turned out to be the most fascinating tour, especially from someone who worked there. I left with a better perspective of the inner workings of this cemetery.

Because we were now weary and exhausted, it was decided right then and there to head down to the French Market to Café Du Monde. If you don't stop here on your visit to the city, you haven't really visited the city! The beignets, while cheap (our bill came to a whopping $10 for two coffees and three servings of beignets), were decadent - and so delicious.

With satisfied bellies (and clogged arteries), we walked around the French Quarter. Southern Decadence was going on this weekend so we got more than an eyeful. I loved every single minute of my time spent in the French Quarter. The fun, the beautiful architecture, the people watching - there was never a dull moment.

While eating breakfast at Mother's a local helped us out and suggested we eat dinner at Mandina's. Since it was recommended by a local, we jumped at the chance. However, it turned out to be our worst meal of the trip. Couple that with waiting almost an hour to get there by bus, and you had an unhappy bunch.

We turned in late, I was exhausted and needed the sleep. The city was hot and humid, not a good thing for me who favors the cold.

Getting Nearer to NOLA

2009-08-21T11:53:00.023-04:00

So, the flights have been booked and the hotel is reserved. I bought my Streetwise map of the city and we're ready to go. Now, I'm just researching where to eat for three whole days - and then some. In New Orleans, food is big business.

Also, I'm bummed out about one thing. I may not get to see any Fabergé eggs at the NOMA, as they are out on the road touring. Still, there are some Fabergé items there and that will still be exciting. But, it seems to be the story of my life these days.

It looks like there may be three of us in New Orleans this Labor Day weekend instead of two. After e-mailing my aunt to request any NOLA tips and recommendations, she responded back a few days later asking if it were okay to join us. No problem! We could always make this a family get together. Besides, she has already visited and has previously knowledge of the city.

My brand new suitcase is on its way to being completely packed and it's sitting there collecting maps, articles, and various other items I don't dare want to forget. For a major discount, I bought a Travelpro 19" rollaboard from their discontinued Walkabout Lite 2 line. It's the most perfect thing I needed for a carry on. Yes, this will be a carry on only affair. At least for me, anyway.

As we are getting nearer to NOLA, I'm getting much more excited. Lately, I feel as if I'm not exploring much of my own country and this trip is certainly a welcome re-introduction to all that.

Stockholm, Slowly Getting There

2009-07-30T17:31:00.011-04:00

I've just booked my accommodations and am feeling much more secure about this trip to Stockholm. I'm also becoming more comfortable about staying in hostels. There wasn't much of a second thought given about staying in one considering the outrageous expense of Scandinavian cities. I learned this in my travels to Denmark a few years ago.

I'm buying the Stockholm card; my student discount will give me a lot of savings, but not as much as the card will in the long run. I'm also splurging and using the express train from Arlanda to the city center and back. My ISIC card will give tremendous savings in that department, plus the benefit of being at the airport in under 30 minutes for an early Sunday morning flight far outweighs any difference in expense by taking the cheaper bus and risking traffic jams.

Much is still under construction, plans are loose at best. Of course, there are the basic must sees, but things such as restaurants, and lesser things are not firmed up yet. I'm still not sure about a day trip to Vaxholm or one of the other archipelago islands. I'm excited to visit Drottningholm, the residence of the royal family. Most of all, it will be fun to return to Sweden and see it under a different eye than the last time.

This trip occurs around the same time as my Ireland trip last year did. I'm still amazed at how much I accomplished in that short period of time and I'm hoping for a little of that magical pixie dust to find its way over onto this trip.

NOLA, N-O-L-A, NOLA

2009-07-23T13:00:00.016-04:00

I grabbed two round trip tickets on Jet Blue to New Orleans for Labor Day weekend. We arrive Thursday night and leave Monday morning. This gives us three whole days to play with. What's even better is that I was able to get an 11% discount using my ISIC card. Even better was finding out that the discount applies to each segment, and each accompanying traveler, not just off the total round trip and for students only. Sweet!

We haven't booked the hotel yet, but I have some ideas and some more reviewing to do. I want to be very near to the French Quarter but not smack dab in the middle of it all.

As of now, nothing is set in stone. Still, I have some basic ideas on what I want to see and do. Of course, one of the stops will be to NOMA to view the Fabergé eggs on display. I'd really love to see the voodoo museum, and our visit won't be complete without a cemetery tour. A friend of mine is going to recommend restaurants, so that will be extremely helpful. I won't leave until I've gone to Cafe du Monde for their café au lait and beignets.

I leave for Stockholm the week after, which might make things a bit stressful, but this will be a nice respite from the NYC summer.

Focus on Nothing

2009-07-10T04:29:00.005-04:00

Looks like my hostel accommodations in Stockholm are pretty much covered. I jumped at the opportunity to join a focus group about travel, answered the litany of questions, and was accepted. It was to be a two hour group complete with lunch and refreshments. I arrived, signed in, and sat in the waiting room while others filed in.

To my confusion, everybody was called except for myself and another person. A few minutes later, we were informed that we were chosen as alternates and only had to wait a half hour. If the coordinators felt someone in the group wasn't compatible, we would replace them.

I guess all members of the group were compatible because a half an hour later, we were both handed an envelope of money and told to go home.

$125 for a half hour of my time. Not bad.

Photos of Darmstadt, Frankfurt, & Mainz

2009-06-14T08:22:00.004-04:00

I am finally putting up the photo albums of my short trip to Germany in February. By short I mean I left on a Friday and returned on a Monday. I'm still surprised at how much I managed to see given those few days, but it all made an impression on me.

Darmstadt

Frankfurt

Mainz

More Trippin'

2009-06-13T00:47:00.010-04:00

I promised myself and others this would be the year of remaining stateside for a longer period of time than last year's world tour. Tell that to the airlines who seem to be giving flights away these days in the form of mistake fares I discovered for both Stockholm and Madrid.

I'm going to Stockholm in September for an obscene discount in airfare. It's a direct flight each way, so no layovers. I had been to Sweden before, Helsingborg and Malmo, on a day trip that was part of my Denmark vacation. I liked these two towns, but they didn't offer enough excitement for me and I decided I would probably enjoy Stockholm instead. I was true on my word that I'd come back when I booked the flight, and I think I'll love visiting this city.

I snagged a mistake fare on Delta for the end of December to Madrid. I hate Madrid. I know I've mentioned this many times before. For $238 round trip total, there was no way I could refuse this offer. What I'm trying to do is use it as a base to go somewhere else, like Barcelona, Lisbon, or maybe even to the UK. Whatever cheap tickets I can find on a low cost carrier will be fine.

I still haven't planned the "Big Trip", I try and take during Thanksgiving week. I am hemming and hawing over where I want to go. I have my mind on a few places, but still haven't made a final decision yet.

Watch this space!

Crashed

2009-04-17T10:13:00.009-04:00

Last week, my computer, overheated by Microsoft updates, somewhat crashed. The updates kept freezing up my computer, causing me to shut down. Apparently, when you do this, it leaves behind some components that ruin your operating system.

Thankfully, the IT department at work are a great group of people, and helpful to situations outside of the realm of work. I purchased a 500gb external hard drive, turned everything over to them, and they returned my laptop the next day - saving all of my precious files on the external drive. I then had the task of rebooting my laptop and erasing every single thing off my hard drive. I think I would've had a nervous breakdown had I lost all my photos and the various documents I had been saving for years.

The only drawback, and it's very annoying, is that in addition to all my favorites disappearing from both Firefox and IE, is that all the tags and collections in my Adobe Photo Album have disappeared too. All my hard work down the drain. Still, there's always the alternative, and that's to have no photos to go with those no tags and no collections. I'm starting from scratch in more ways than one.

So, this has postponed the online album creation for my Paris, Brussels, and Antwerp trip as all my tags fell off and I have to reselect and tag all over again. Again, I'm trying to look at the bright side and be grateful that I even have all my photos, but it still stings like a bitch.

This is Me, Lately

2009-04-05T12:43:00.009-04:00

The beginning of the year yielded a lot of fatigue. After ten days at my mom's house, most of them snowed in, my goal of relaxation quickly turned to unrest. I had to start school the day after my staycation was over. Once classes started I remained mentally fatigued. An impending math class will do that to a person, especially when you are not a math person. I ended up making the decision to drop the class, feeling like a failure.

The other class, required for my degree, had mechanical problems from the beginning. That and the fatigue that refused to dissipate did not allow me to really jump feet first into my studies. An added letdown was that there was only one other student in the class, and he dropped out soon after, leaving me the lone student. In a history class, with a dull professor, this did not make a good mix. So, I dropped that class too, feeling even more like a failure. I registered for a mid-session course for another required course and did incredibly well. My academic self esteem boosted few notches upward.

In between school and vacations, I managed to do my taxes. This year was the first in several where I didn't owe the government. Instead, they owed me!

I want to become more politically proactive about an issue that affects me, but I don't want to delve into on a public forum. All I can say is that I am still stunned how much blatant discrimination is allowed right under the noses of certain governments.

I'm looking forward to the rest of the year. I have a lot ahead in terms of knocking things off my to-do list and getting life in order. It's April, and I need to start doing some spring cleaning of the mind.

Day 9 - Brussels and Home

2009-04-02T17:30:00.030-04:00

March 22 -

Consuming both wine and beer the night before did me in. I'm not a big drinker and crashed immediately after returning to the hostel. I had to get up early to make the 10am flight, creeping around a full room of snoozing people. I made it to Centraal Station for the express train to the airport quickly. The Gods were watching over me today considering all the times I got lost in this city.

Airport check in was busy, but smooth. I learned at the gate that due to a mechanical problem, the in-flight entertainment system would not be working for cattle class. Of course, it worked for first class! Figures, this would be the only flight where I didn't pack a book to read. Thankfully, there were some free magazines available. Airline food was terrible (what's new?) and I spent the bulk of my flight napping or lost in thought. Having my iPod Touch was a godsend and I don't know what I'd have done without it, on the plane or throughout the entire trip.

My impressions? Paris was fantastic, but I didn't come away in a dreamy state as others do. This jaded city girl was able to see Paris for what it is. I would definitely go back, but to focus on the lesser things and the smaller museums that others don't usually take advantage of their first time. Those are the treasures here.

Brussels was much more multicultural than expected. Not a bad thing, not at all. I was surprised that the city remains bi-lingual with both Dutch and French street signs. It seemed that other than the Grand Place, which is tourist to the hilt, the other neighborhoods offer some sort of treat around each corner. I was especially impressed by the art nouveau houses.

Antwerp was absolutely beautiful. A definite can't miss city. I'm glad to have visited, hokey trolley tour and all. The architecture is to die for. I need to go back and spend more time there. A day isn't merely enough time to see what this city has to offer.

In addition to the usual postcards, here's what I bought -

Madrid -
Valor chocolate (for Spanish hot chocolate)
Saffron. It was cheaper there, but not considerably so compared to NYC prices.

Paris -
Amora mustard (the Maille brand was a bit too posh, and pricey for my tastes)
Crème de Marrons (I want to give this a try, it's a French thing)
Macarons from Laduree (I loved them, but realized there's a place in NYC that does them as good)
Vanilla meringues (bought sort of accidentally and fell in love, love, love!)
Necklace from Diwali in Montmartre
Prints from street artists
Bottle of wine
Shirt from Petit Bateau (it was somewhat cheaper in France and the only real retail splurge my entire trip)

Brussels -
Earrings from a street vendor in Agora Square
Underwear, socks, and camisole from Hema

Antwerp -
Toast rack from street vendor
Belgian chocolates
Speculoos
Cecemel
Hotcemel
A bottle of Leffe blonde beer (shouldn't have bothered, it's found allover the US)
Fresh waffles from the bakery
Licorice

Surprisingly, I didn't go all out and crazy with shopping. The list seems long, but a majority of the items were cheap. Most were only a few US dollars each. The t-shirt from Petit Bateau was the most expensive single item purchased, if you can believe that.

I've realized that my love of Belgium is not superficial after all, but the start of a long romance. I know it's not jam packed with big cities and landmarks. A small country of probably no significant importance when put up against some other European siblings, but it's fine the way it is.

Day 8 - Antwerp

2009-04-01T12:58:00.079-04:00

March 21 -

Got my Dutch on today. On weekends, Inner-Belgian train fares are half off. At 7 euros round trip, I couldn't resist a day trip.

I had never been to Antwerp before except to switch trains for Bruges in 2006, and had been intrigued with visiting the place ever since. Brussels Centraal Station was packed, this half fare is quite popular.

Arrival and Lawbreaking
I arrived at Antwerp Centraal and started my day off with a waffle at the station. When in Dutch country... Thankfully, there was a tourist information booth as I hadn't much of a clue where to begin. There were really no major preparations for this excursion. With map in hand and a general direction to head to, the walk would be a bit far and I wanted to concentrate all physical exertion around the main areas. I took the metro from Centraal, illegally. The train pulled in and I immediately wanted to get on, to the point where I evaded the fare. I'm not going to be proud of this fact, but it was easy, even if I had butterflies in my stomach the whole two minute ride to the designated stop.

Not once in my entire time in Brussels was I asked to present my ticket for the metro and trams. No one asked for my ticket for the trip from Brussels to Antwerp. It's a total honor system. Admittedly, I knew what I was doing was wrong, but I was so insistent on getting on this train that I didn't focus on getting my fare.

Groenplaats and Beyond
Arriving in the Groenplaats there was a gimmicky trolley ride that takes you around Antwerp for only 5 euros. I gladly gave in. It turned out to be fun and I got my bearings around the city much better. Plus, I got to relax my legs and feet a bit more for walking around later. After the ride, I went back to explore some of the places I had noted on the trolley tour, but couldn't find this cool comic mural I had seen and desperately wanted a photo of.

I noticed a lot of cool murals in Belgium, Antwerp especially, including a neat one on Wolstraat. The walk along the boardwalk of the river Schelde was made more beautiful by the sunny weather we were having. Although it was a day trip, it wasn't enough, but it would have to do given the time constraints.

Antwerp's City Hall/Old Market Square (Stadhuis/Grote Markt) is almost as stunning as Brussels' Grand Place. Again, photos do not do this square any justice. I lunched at Brasserie Populaire in Sint-Paulus square, receiving a weird look, along with a quizzical "are you sure?" for requesting milk with tea. Milk poured in tea is just not done with the Dutch.

Hema department store, on the Meir pedestrian street, made another appearance and I purchased a baby outfit for my expecting cousin and some licorice. Later, to my horror, I would discover I had purchased salty licorice instead. Shudder!

Antwerp is a fabulous walking city. There are also tons of cafes for rest and refueling. Walking through the streets, I stumbled upon a silver stall and purchased a heavy pewter toast rack. Each slot for toast is a letter that spells out the word "TOAST". It was my most favorite souvenir this entire trip, setting me back a mere 3 euros for the pleasure of owning it.

The oddest part of my visit were the pit bull breed dogs I saw allover the city. It seems everyone here owns one. They clearly outnumbered all other breeds I'd seen that day.

Walking back to the train station, admiring the drop dead architecture, the skies opened and the heavens appeared - Match supermarket was right in front of me! Anyone who knows me knows very well that a trip isn't complete without a visit to the supermarket to stock up on local goodies. Here I bought spekuloos cookies, Cecemel, a package of fresh waffles from the bakery, and a bunch of other items. Being green, I purchased a Match shopping bag to lug everything back.

I got to accomplish a lot on this day trip: sightseeing, relaxing walks, and shopping.

Dinner and Finishing Up
I arrived back in Brussels in the evening, packed for the early morning departure, and headed out for dinner a block from the hostel, where it seemed to be loaded with non-touristy restaurants. I ate at Le Forestier Chez Hatem, enjoying the plat du jour of lamb in a nice gravy, legumes, and the Belgian version of fancy tater tots. All this for only 10 euros. Another glass of wine and a Belgian beer and I could've done without the cheese platter I ordered, which was a bowl of bland cubes of fromage and cornichons. Aside from the let down of the cheese platter, the lamb dish was probably the second best meal of my entire stay here. The first being the tartine in the D'Orsay cafe.

I reflected on my entire trip and how problem free it had been. Aside from getting lost easily in Brussels, everything went off without a hitch. Paris was amazing and Madrid came through in the short time I was there. Brussels had been a nice, quiet way to end the vacation and Antwerp was a fantastic day trip. The weather had turned colder in Belgium, but it was sunny otherwise. I think that's what I'll remember the most about this trip, the constant sunshine.

Day 7 - Brussels

2009-03-31T09:58:00.079-04:00

March 20 -

I conquered a lot of Brussels in one day. I was all museum'd out from Paris and so wanted to be as leisurely as possible during the rest of this stay.

Grand Place & Agora Square
I explored Grand Place a bit more, stopped in Agora Square to check out the vendors selling jewelry, bought a few inexpensive pairs of earrings, and paid another visit to Mannekin Piss and the surrounding area for daytime photos. I did not want to leave Grand Place; the beauty was incredibly surreal. If I ever get back, I'd like to hang out in a chair in the middle of the square for the day and people watch.

Marolles District
My guidebook mentioned a flea market in the Marolles district on Place du Jeu de Balle and I found it after a metro ride and walking past the Palace of Justice, whose gorgeous dome was pretty much covered over for renovation. I arrived at the market at tail end, but managed to rummage through some of the quirky junk on sale, finding nothing of real interest. I meandered along the twisting streets to a different metro to carry on to the Uccle district to one of my must sees for this trip. The Brussels metro turns into a tram once it emerges from the underground. I learned this the difficult way trying to reach the Russian Orthodox church.

St. Job Russian Orthodox Church
I couldn't go overseas and not see something Romanov! The church of St. Job in Brussels was built specifically to honor the last Tsar and his family. I'm assuming that it was named as such because Nicholas II was born on the day of Job. It was something he always lamented and resigned his fate to, especially when death looked him in the eye at Yekaterinburg. What you cannot see are the supposed relics of the last Imperial family, donated by Nicholas' surviving family. Built in the wall of the church is the box containing various items and some pieces of human remains found at the first dumping site, Four Brothers Mine, after the family and their retainers were murdered. The investigators collected all that was left behind, including one of the deceased fingers.

Also inside was the bible the family used while in captivity. What was unfortunate, was that the church was closed and wouldn't be open for service until Saturday night or Sunday morning, both inconvenient times to visit. Sadly, I resigned myself to the fact that I would probably not get to see the inside.

Grand Palace
Belgium has a royal family, though not as illustrious as some of Europe's other dynasties. Like other Benelux royals, they stay low key. The palace too is low key, with a park across the street that once was reserved only for the King, until it was open to the public. Next to the palace is the BELvue museum, which honors all things Belgium. There, I stumbled upon a Brussels art nouveau book and remembered reading somewhere about how Brussels was the capital of art nouveau. Gleaning some information from the book, I decided to find Ambiorix Square where tons of these nouveau homes are located.

Ambiorix & Gutenberg Square
Using a bad map which only highlighted the city centre, how I managed to make it over to Ambiorix square, I don't know. I walked up and down several streets in the immediate area, hoping to stumble upon what I was looking for. Once I reached Gutenberg Square, which rivals Ambiorix, I knew I was in the right place. Gorgeous! However, cars obstructed the homes and so many of my snapshots look like surveillance photos instead. Everything about the area was pretty, including the pond at Square Marie-Louise. Unfortunately, number 11, Villa Saint-Cyr, the most famous home on Ambiorix, was under construction, so I couldn't get a good look.

Hema
No visit to Belgium was complete without a visit to Hema. I had first discovered this cool department store on my trip to Bruges a few years before. Brussels closes shop early, so I arrived at Hema as it was closing and didn't have much time to dilly-dally. I did walk away with some goodies though. Nieuwstraat (New Street), a pedestrian street, was like a scaled down version of Herald Square, but Hema was the only store that interested me.

For dinner, I ate at Pizza Hut for a sit down meal of salad and a personal pan pizza. Yes, I bowed down to the Big P. At this stage of the vacation, I was craving carbs and familiarity, two things I love. This happens on every trip I take. I've learned not to beat myself up over it considering I do sample the local cuisine, keeping my mind as open as possible, despite the fact that I'm not food adventurous. That said, it was delicious and I ordered a Belgian beer on tap. I'm not a beer drinker but this was absolutely lovely and I'm finding the blond beers more agreeable to my palate.

This was such a long day. I packed so much and got back to the hostel in a tired mood. I wanted to explore a bit more, but Antwerp was scheduled for the next day. Still, I saw a lot and loved Brussels, despite losing my bearings so much.

Day 6 - Paris & Brussels

2009-03-30T00:05:00.045-04:00

March 19 -

Off to Gare du Nord to catch the 12:25 Thalys train to Brussels. I spent the morning lounging, lazing at breakfast which was quite the different pace than days before where I utilized time stuffing myself silly in order to stave off the need to eat too much throughout the day. I was purposeful in my attempts relax at breakfast this day, taking in the canal view a bit more than days past.

I spent the rest of the morning packing up, heading out to the shops nearby to buy food and wine. I had stopped into the Monoprix a few days before, but remembered there was a Franprix that was cheaper and closer to the hostel. Plus, it was across the street from the little Bodega I was using for my fruit and other cheap treats. There, I bought a bottle of super cheap Cote de Rhone, upset that I didn't have the strength nor storage to bring more wine home with me. At the Franprix I purchased Amora mustard (cheaper than Maille), Creme de Marrons (I have to give this stuff a try), and a box of cookies for my Nan. Previous trips always have me buying more than necessary, but I really calmed down on the purchases. Besides, there was still Belgium.

Paris was striking that day, but thankfully, I wouldn't be effected. Thankfully. That was all I needed, no?

Getting into Brussels was quick but I had a bad map and needed help from the information booth. I managed the metro just fine, followed the directions, and made it to the hostel with no problems. It was a HI Hostel and those tend to be iffy because they are the bog standard. A lot of the private ones go for broke, but HI Hostels tend to be as basic as possible. After having so many amenities at St. Christopher's, such as a sauna, and free wifi in my room, this place was like a detention center, but it would treat me well my entire stay.

Laundry. I have become better at packing light. I've come a long way in this respect, and I'm still amazed at how light my luggage is lately when I leave home for vacations. Still, laundry in Europe is expensive and what's worse is you can feel like a dolt trying to figure out how to work the most basic machine in a foreign country. Thankfully, someone happened to be in there, spoke great English, and showed me the protocol. In the US this would all make sense in English, you either pay all with coins or you buy a special non-currency bearing coin to operate the machines. But trying to figure out the protocol in both French and Dutch, it doesn't make sense.

Brussels is quite international, as well it should be. It's the capital of the EU. Being on the smallish side, it should be easy to get around. Looking at a map it would appear so. Then tell me why I got lost almost every single minute of my time there!! Finding Grand Place was easy, you just followed the spire that dominates the skyline. Breaking away from it was difficult and I walked in circle many times. Still, Grand Place is hands down, one of the most beautiful squares I've ever seen. No photo I took did it the justice it deserved.

What disappointed me most was Mannekin Piss. For some reason, due to his popularity, I assumed he'd be the center of some grand square in Brussels. He's not. Instead, he's hidden away on some side street, kitty corner against some building. Not that he was the highlight of my stay, just not as grandiose as I expected.

Street food made up a considerable amount of my diet here the first night. I consumed waffles, frites, and Belgian style hot dogs. Divine!

Day 5 - Paris

2009-03-28T10:04:00.050-04:00

March 18 -

The Louvre
I had planned on being all smug and getting away with doing the 6 minute Louvre tour. After all, don't we all just want to see the Mona Lisa and leave? Trust me, I'm no bumpkin and I love museums, but I wasn't feeling the crowds and so wanted that intimate feeling when you can be alone with art, to appreciate it fully. Apparently, my mind changed once inside. Yes, my first stop was to scramble to see Da Vinci's masterpiece. On the way, I stopped at the Winged Victory and something started to come over me. After fighting the crowds to get up front for a photo op, I realized how much more impressive the Mona Lisa would be if she weren't such an attention getter.

Then, something stunned me more - The Apollo Gallery. I think I just about had to pick myself off the floor after entering this room. The beauty before me made that Italian chick a few rooms away seem like a paint by numbers project. This room was my love, my treasure, and a new way of looking at the Louvre.

The statue of Venus de Milo was next and she didn't disappoint either. Not as popular as the Mona Lisa, Venus holds her own and garners a lot of attention as well. She's beautiful, but somehow has that sad look on her face indicating she'd rather be back home in Greece. After viewing the Canova, the Michelangelo's, and the Dutch Masters (always a fave), I was done with the Louvre.

Musee D'Orsay
D'Orsay is the modern art museum and where you're going to see the Monet's and such. Built in an old train station, it's large and airy creating a comfortable atmosphere to take your time to enjoy what's on display. My visit corresponded with lunch time and so I ate at the cafe here. I ordered the Mr. Henri tartine of goat's cheese on country bread spread with honey, and it was simply divine! Next to me sat a French woman who struck up a conversation with me. She ordered the same meal and was intent on communicating despite her limited grasp of English and my complete lack of French. Still, we both figured things out and could have a basic understanding of one another.

I stopped along the Seine to check out the boutiquistas selling books, prints, and post cards. Paris is popular for this. I bought a few art prints. One print was a water color of a Paris street scene from a woman on the bridge as I was walking over to the D'Orsay. The other was a humorous print of various cats in poses from one of the boutiquistas. Notre Dame as a backdrop combined with a sunny day made it all so perfect.

The last island to semi-explore, Ile St Louis, and I joined the line for Berthillon, a can't miss ice cream shop. The line was long, but slow. I ordered a single ("simple") cone of the pistachio, which is a popular flavor here, but seriously regretted not ordering the chocolate. I stopped to watch street musicians on the bridge before heading back to the right bank.

Arc de Triomphe
I saved the Arc for the end of the day for a reason. Timing. I wanted both day and night views. Walking up the Champs Elysees was electric but the scene was not my cup of tea. Here I experienced the rudest interaction with a French person. Up until then, I had nothing but excellent interactions and conversations with the locals. I'm certain it's the area and the reason people come away with bad experiences - a combination of tourists and locals sharing a small space, I guess.

I climbed the steps to the top of the Arc for the loveliest views of the city so far. Taking some time rest to take in the fresh air and reflect on my hectic day, I waited for nightfall. Once it arrived, I marveled at the view up the Champ Elysees and at the Eiffel Tower. Coming back down, I was witness to a military drill honoring the war dead. It was a gentle reminder to what the Arc represented to the people of France.

Famished, I'm ashamed to admit where I ate dinner that night, but it was fast, satisfying, and on the Champs Elysees - with a view too!

I got back to the hostel and had a leisurely time packing for the next day's trip to Brussels. I had such a good time so far and didn't want it to end. However, I was looking forward to Brussels and Antwerp. I don't think at any point during this trip was I yearning for it to end. There was a complete lack of holiday fatigue that usually manages to set in right about now.

Day 4 - Paris

2009-03-26T20:55:00.042-04:00

March 17 -

Versailles
I was so looking forward to visiting Versailles. I'm a palace kind of girl, and this was certainly a palace! Although it's outside of Paris, Versailles is very easy to get to. Once you get off the train, just follow the many signs, and people, who will be your fellow tourists for the day. Most of the palace is empty. The revolutionaries took care of that hundreds of years ago. What remains are the ornate rooms, the beds of the King and Queen, and several busts and chairs. That's pretty much it, really. The Hall of Mirrors was beautiful and I managed to cajole a kind stranger to snap a (decent) photo of me posing here.

I'm not naive about history, but I have always felt that Marie Antoinette took the fall for something she had no control over personally. It was kind of sad being in her bedroom, looking at the place where she slept and birthed her children, and I was glad to see various portraits and busts of her around the palace. Sadly, only in death has she been semi-rehabilitated. The gardens were gorgeous, especially the Apollo fountain, which I loved, but I tired easily. Versailles is a huge place and I must've walked several miles the entire day. I saw both the Grand and Petit Trianons. Marie Antoinette's village, Hameau de la Reine, was picturesque but odd against the rest of the palace backdrop.

Saint Chapelle and Notre Dame
Back in Paris, and I had heard about Saint Chapelle, tucked away in the Palais Justice complex. All you see from outside is the ornate spire peaking out of a fortress of a building. I made it just in time for closing, my museum pass allowing a later entry. I was much more surprised with St Chapelle than the guide books give credit for. It's beautiful and so hard to believe that it's squirreled away like that.

With enough time at the end of the day, I walked to Notre Dame and took some amazing shots of the cathedral as the sun was setting. The glow cast over the facade was amazing.

Dinner was at a place in the Latin Quarter whose name escapes me. They knew immediately I was American. So much so that they asked if I'd like a cafe creme. Not being shy, I obliged. Those things are delicious. The rest of the meal was just okay. I wasn't having luck with much of the food here. In my defense, all the exercise made me crave meals high in carbs, so that might explain things. I decided to end my night at the Trocadaro with some night shots of the Eiffel Tower. This was a great, clear spot for photo ops.

Although I had done too much, by the end of the day, I was left with the feeling there was more to do. I turned in or else I would've collapsed.

Day 3 - Paris

2009-03-25T14:09:00.054-04:00

March 16 -

Montmartre
Montmartre was the neighborhood I wanted desperately to see. It took up pretty much the whole day and didn't disappoint. Ascending the steep hill to the Sacre Coeur, there were several street performers trying to get money off the tourists. I wasn't having any of that and so told one of them trying to tie string around my wrist, "Don't touch me!". He stepped back and barked "Fuck You!" Being the New Yorker that I am, I turned back, calmly repeated his words back to him, and went about my business.

I continued to walk the steep hills and climbed the Sacre Coeur to the top dome. It was so fun afterwards to walk the small and winding streets, though understandably, it was a very touristy scene judging from the millions of souvenir stores around. Not to mention the plethora of professional street artists who chase you through the streets asking to draw you, for a fee of course. Still, the neighborhood had character, and I did see several locals going about their daily business. I did purchase a really cool necklace at a shop called Diwali on Rue Norvins. It only set me back about 15 euros, which was a great deal.

I ate lunch at a total tourist trap called La Vaissellerie. The thing is, I knew it going in, but was hungry at that point and didn't care. I ordered one of the Plats du Jour, this lasagna bolognese that was too gloppy with cheese, and a vegetable soup that looked as if I were spooning V8 into my mouth. However, the square the restaurant was on, Place du Terte, was crammed with artists painting and selling their art under the warm sun. The scene couldn't have been any better.

Exploring Montmartre was great, a real "Amelie" kind of day. Speaking of which, the guide book had the cafe featured in the movie but walking by, I noticed they were either closed for good or revamping the place. Stopped into Petit Bateu and bought a plum colored cotton tee on sale. It was a bit less than buying in the US, but it was the most expensive single item I purchased for the trip. Walked past the infamous Moulin Rouge, but it would be cooler to see it at night. Stopped into the Monoprix for a looksie and came away with a few items. A bigger shop would happen closer to leaving.

Pere Lachaise Cemetery
Using the Rick Steves cemetery tour, I only wanted to see a few graves - Oscar Wilde, Edith Piaf, and Jim Morrison. Wilde's grave is covered in lipstick kisses left by adoring fans. I wanted to partake, but felt deep down, it was disrespectful to graffiti a grave. Something I wasn't expecting were the many memorials dedicated to those who lost their lives in Nazi concentration camps. It was a sunny and beautiful day and so the peaceful sounds of nature also enjoying the day made for a great walk. Morrison's grave was shrined out and a friendly orange cat was nearby to bask in the attention of visitors.

Afterwards, I hopped the #69 bus into the center and stopped off at BHV department store. Nothing peaked my interest and so I crossed over to snap some photos of Hotel De Ville and to take night photos. First, I would need dinner. After the crap cheesy meal in Montmartre I was happy to settle down and have the most lovely warm goat cheese salad at Le Gribouille on Ru de Rivoli. It was delish. I also ordered a cafe creme. It's so American to order this anytime except at breakfast. But if you go to Paris, make sure you experience a cup. It's divine!

I headed over to Ile de la Cite to see the Notre Dame at night. On a night shots kick, I decided to walk to the Louvre, stopping along the way to snap various other scenes. On my way, I had only one safety concern the entire trip. A man approached me and asked where I was from. He proceeded to follow me down the street along the quay. I kept my pace to almost a gallop. There was no one to be found and I contemplated running, until I saw a group of people ahead. The man disappeared and I was glad to be rid of this experience.

I packed so much into my day and had no regrets doing so. My trip to Versailles was the next day so I went back to the hostel to wind down and rest up.

Day 2 - Paris

2009-03-23T01:52:00.056-04:00

March 15 -

It's always difficult planning a vacation, even if you do it way in advance. With Paris, I found that there was such a wonky schedule for what is open and closed on certain days that I would have to plan accordingly. Today, would be a visit to the Eiffel Tower and the Catacombs.

First off, gorgeous day. The down coat didn't last too long on my body. A cashmere sweater and dressy scarf would suffice throughout my entire stay. I left Europe sunburned in March.

The Eiffel Tower
Seeing the Eiffel Tower, like any world landmark, is at first an "Oh wow, that's finally it!" experience. All your life you see something on television and in other various forms of media. So, to finally see it up close and in real time always produces minor shock and awe. I took what ended up being some great shots from the park. I don't really think it takes a bad picture. There were several lines to get up, and the one for taking the stairs was shorter, and cheaper. I chose this option. I'm used to stairs! All 650 steps of them.

I walked up to the first level, took a break, bought some water, and contemplated whether it would be worth it to walk to the second level. Not because of fatigue, but because I wasn't really impressed with the views. I ended up convincing myself this was Paris and so needed to experience as much as possible. I ascended the stairs to the second level. The weather was beautiful, but I still wasn't really impressed with the views. It was a lovely experience but I don't see myself ever visiting the Eiffel Tower again, unless I were with someone going their first time.

Place de la Concorde
After walking the gorgeous Pont Alexander III, taken with the beautiful statues on the bridge, and both the Petit and Grand Palais, I walked towards Place de la Concorde to see the Egyptian obelisk and the spot where Marie Antoinette lost her head - literally. Place de la Concorde is interesting because it's in direct line with both the Louvre and the Arc de Triomphe. You could argue that it's a direct line showing the history of France - the Louvre with Kings, Place de la Concorde with the Revolution, and finally, the Arc de Triomphe with Nationalism. The fountains were on and were beautiful.

The Catacombs
I headed next and lastly, to the Catacombs. The line was wrapped around the block. Since I arrived an hour before closing to visitors, I fretted a bit. Surprisingly, I got in much quicker than the long line suggested. The Catacombs were an amazing experience and one I shall not forget. I really thought I would be creeped out by all the bones, as I had never seen human remains in such a way. Walking down the labyrinth of a maze into the actual Catacombs, I kept bracing myself for what would be around each corridor. When the time came, surprisingly, I kept my composure and wasn't frightened at all. It was sort of peaceful as well. The formality of death right there in front of you, with skulls arranged in heart shapes or geometrical patterns. I'm not going to lie, having other tourists walking along side of me also helped keep the spookiness to a minimum!

That night, I ate for the first time a croque monsieur, washing everything down with a glass of wine at the hostel's restaurant/bar. During my entire stay in Paris, I noticed a lot of meal items included ham, which I'm not a huge fan of. The hostel had a private sauna and I was looking forward to relaxing. It wasn't the same intense heat as my sauna in Estonia, but it was still relaxing. Little did I know that I evaded a serious accident.

A person at the front desk brought me down into the room, which is away from the action, and showed me how to use everything. Inside, there is the sauna room and another room for the shower. I went upstairs to get my towel and came back down to find an employee in there pulling inventory from the closet that is next to the shower room. He explained that he closed the shower room door because the lock was broken and it anyone who closed it would be trapped inside. My stomach dropped. I got the chills thinking about this and was glad this employee showed up at the last minute to pull stock from the closet. If he hadn't been there to tell me this, I most certainly would've closed that door behind me and would be stuck until someone showed up to rescue me, and who knows when that would've been.

Avoiding tragedy, I still managed to have a relaxing sauna experience and went back to my room all de-stressed from my travels.

Day 1 - Madrid Layover and on to Paris

2009-03-23T01:41:00.023-04:00

I have to admit, I'm starting to like all this posting my vacation stories after the fact business. Besides, it takes the pressure off.

March 14 -

The Iberia flight was uneventful, the food terrible. I slept really well on the plane and didn't have to bother much with jet lag later. I think another reason for this, besides the sleep, was that the US had just set the clocks ahead the week prior to me leaving, so now the countries I would be visiting were only five hours ahead, until a few weeks when they catch back up again. I also completed my treatment for bronchitis and was feeling 100% at this point. Who knew my first decent night's sleep after recovery would be on a stuffy plane?

I only had a few hours in Madrid, but they were lovely. It was sunny and hot. Given the short time, Plaza Mayor and Puerta del Sol were the areas I mainly focused on. It was nice to see Plaza Mayor busy as opposed to my last visit when it was mostly empty and under construction. I stopped into El Cortes Ingles and bought some saffron and Valor chocolate. I was coveting the aisle of cheap and plentiful olive oil, lamenting that I couldn't bring any back on the plane. Spanish olive oil rocks!

Overall, despite the fact that I was afraid to remove my coat due to having my valuables hidden away there, it was much more pleasant visit than the last time. Then again, a few hours is much different than a few days!

No problems with Iberia this time, thankfully! I enjoyed a Fanta limon at the airport. I was so looking forward to that. The flight to Paris Orly was on time and smooth going. I slept some more. This helped tremendously with jet lag.

The metro into Paris was dead easy and I made it to the hostel with not too many problems. Makes sense to follow the directions, for once. I settled in easily, headed out to a boulangerie for a quick nosh on a root vegetable quiche, and actually woke up at a decent time the next morning.

And She's Off...Again

2009-03-13T11:53:00.009-04:00

This time to Paris and Brussels. I leave Friday night and return next Sunday afternoon. I booked the flight last summer when oil prices were through the roof, so it looked like an amazing deal. Who knew things would be different and airlines would be begging us to fly. So, the price actually turned out to be competitive with what's currently out there today.

Oh well, I don't have a crystal ball, or else I'd have hit Powerball years ago, so I'm rolling with the punches. That said, I lucked out on a great deal on a hostel. Paris isn't known for doing hostels properly, and this place just opened; apparently, they know their stuff. It's got a sauna too. How cool is that?!

I added Brussels because of my love for Belgium. It's a sort of superficial love, so we'll see if it's held up after all these years. I may take a day trip to Antwerp to get my Dutch on. Belgium is split bilingually between Dutch (Flanders) and French (Wallonia). There are many political scrabbles and it's believed that at some point, the country will completely split. Again, I'll be hosteling it. I hope I can fit in the bed after eating all those pommes frites and waffles!!

I'm a little anxious about visiting Paris, which is why I was always hesitant about going there after all these years. One thing I'm not looking forward to is the day long layover in Madrid, Spain. Because of past experience, I hate Madrid (or "MaDread" as I call it), but I believe that everything happens for a reason and maybe I'll actually enjoy my super short time there. I will definitely watch myself on the Metro, which is loaded with thieves.

Thankfully, my street smarts thwarted a pickpocket attempt the last time, hopefully, I won't get bothered again. I'll have my belongings all on the inside of my coat, which will help. That's another let down with this flight. Had I waited, I could be in London for my day long layover. Again, it's all beyond my control. Lesson learned.

So, wish me luck...

My Sick Bed Calleth

2009-03-10T13:05:00.011-04:00

Today, after a week long marathon session of coughing attacks, I admitted defeat and turned myself over to modern medicine. To be brutally honest, I only did so because I woke up this morning with that ailment we all know and love as 'pink eye'. That would definitely merit a doctor's visit. So, with barely much of a voice left, I made an appointment for both afflictions. Pink eye was confirmed on the spot, along with an edict as I was leaving afterwards that all rooms I had entered on the floor be detoxed due to "a patient with conjunctivitis". That would be little old me who ruined an nurse's day.

The bronchitis diagnosis was a shocker because I think the last time I had it was when I was a baby. I was also informed of having blood pressure just a tad on the low end and told to drink more fluids. I'm assuming that'll go back to normal after this passes and I can actually drink without coughing everything up! I was prescribed what is known as a Z-Pack to help both the bronchitis and the pink eye.

What pains me more is that my good friend D and his now fiancee, K, have come stateside to visit. I showed them around the city this past weekend with a voice that was barely audible and which cracked and gurgled at inopportune moments. Not fun for all.

By the end of the day, it hurts so much to cough that I do so with an open mouth, shots of saliva dotting the computer screen as I type. To have a coughing session with a closed mouth only forces my abdominal muscles to do double duty, and this pains me more.

I've been sick for quite some time now. Alarmingly so. It's been a shock to be in such a condition as this. I've canceled tons of plans and spent many weekends relaxing in hopes of recovering faster only to feel good for awhile then progress to horrible in a matter of days. I just want it all over and done with.

Where I've Been in 2008

2009-02-21T09:35:00.009-05:00

I stumbled upon a travel meme. What you do is list all of the towns or cities where you spent at least one night away from home during 2008. Mark with a star if you had multiple non-consecutive stays.

*Manchester
*Vernon
San Francisco
Philadelphia
Boston
Washington DC
Dublin
Taipei
Hong Kong
Tallinn
St. Petersburg
Moscow

I was on an overnight bus in Estonia and an overnight train in Russia. So, I don't know how that fits into this meme!

Day 3 - Finishing up Frankfurt

2009-02-19T05:48:00.017-05:00

February 16 -

The last day and there was more time to walk around. We walked Zeil a bit more, allowing ourselves to meander up and down some of the other streets. It began snowing softly. By the time we headed back to the hotel, it was coming down heavy, worrying us both about our flights. I made sure to stop into a pastry shop and stock up. I couldn't resist, those pretzels and pastries were too good.

Luckily, my flight was on time. For a huge airport, Frankfurt is Boringsville. Once you get past security, there's pretty much nothing to do. I still managed a small carry on this entire trip, despite lugging a bag full of pastries on the plane. I'm certainly coming a long way - leaps and bounds - considering the past.

Of course, the flight was long; the food was disgusting. Thankfully, us passengers each had our own personal entertainment systems. I had brought my new iPod Touch with me to play with. I connected through Philly and was amused by an older German couple on the plane who were visiting the US for the first time. They were so excited to see the NYC skyline and thanked me when I pointed out the Empire State Building.

Overall, this was a short but immensely pleasing trip. It was my first introduction to Germany and I managed to see a lot in my brief time visiting. It was also the first time I jumped so quickly on a bottom of the barrel transatlantic weekend fare.

I can't wait to come back and tour Germany some more. I only hope it's through a fare as cheap as this one.

Day 2 - Frankfurt & Mainz

2009-02-18T17:09:00.021-05:00

February 15 -

I slept like a brick, waking early so we could get out and explore the city. Time was short, but this day was spent really getting around. Our only problem was that it was freezing cold, but we managed this by popping into cafes for hot beverages once in awhile. It worked and saved our fingers and toes!

On our way to tour the area of Romer, we approached an old Jewish cemetery. I learned later that most of it had been destroyed by the Nazis. It was a sad reminder of the history of this country. Outside the cemetery, attached to the old brick wall that surrounded it were thousands upon thousands of steel boxes, each with the name of a Jewish resident of Frankfurt who perished in the Holocaust. Their name, date of birth, date of death (if available), and the concentration camp they were murdered in were listed on these boxes.

Toured more of the old section of Frankfurt, finally seeing the Romer and Alstadt areas. It was amazing until we learned that all of the buildings had been rebuilt after WWII, then it dropped a few notches and just became pretty. Stopped into a tourist shop, turning our nose up at the lack of proper souvenirs. I walked away with a postcard to add to my collection. We ended up walking the bridge over the Rhine to visit the neighborhood of Sachsenhausen, which looked as if it was teaming with louts the night before because of the presence of the street cleaners picking up tons of litter. One could tell it was the drinking quarters for the town from all the bars in the vicinity, but there were tons of cool half timber houses which kept our attention.

My friend suggested we take the train to the town of Mainz for most of the day. Mainz turned out to be just the place we needed. The Alstadt area was amazing, with a bit of the new mixed in. Looking back, I can't believe how much we saw in a relatively short amount of time. We stumbled upon a wind turbine on a steep hill that doubled as a super long slide for kids. The views from the top here afforded us a nice panorama of the old part of the city.

The architecture in Mainz turned out to be a nice distraction. There was such an eclectic mix of old and new, statues, and what appeared to be icons or shrines on the corners of several buildings (will need to look into the correct name and reasons for this). Overall, I was impressed, and happy to have added another town to my travels.

Back in Frankfurt for the evening and on to dinner near the hotel. For the first time I actually liked the beer my friend recommended to me. I'm definitely not a beer drinker in any sense, but the specific type of Weiss beer I drank was softer on the palate than most, with a hint of sweetness. Dinner was again, on the sub-par side, but much better than the previous night's abomination. We both ordered chili con carne and were surprised it wasn't served over rice or pasta, just a plain bowl of meat and beans. My entire trip to Germany seriously lacked any culinary treasures. The only exceptions were the pretzels and pastries, but a person cannot subside on these items alone.

I had to leave the next day, early afternoon. It was a shame, I was really getting into my visit, but that's what long weekend trips are for. This would be my shortest European trip to date, and it was getting difficult coming to grips with this fact.

Day 1 - Darmstadt & Frankfurt

2009-02-17T06:15:00.036-05:00

February 14 -

My flight arrived at 6am-ish, thankfully, on time. I managed the S-Bahn until I got to the Konstablerwache stop. I read the hotel's directions as getting off at that particular stop and going through the subway - in the European sense. I didn't know the directions were actually catering to the American understanding of subway, which would mean transferring to the U-Bahn. After some frenzied help in the bowels of the station by some incredibly helpful station workers, I was able to figure out that I needed to cross the platform and take the U-Bahn to the Zoo stop.

We stayed at the Hotel Imperial, which was clean, in a quiet neighborhood, and had such a friendly and helpful staff. Since it was so early, my room wasn't ready. To fuel up, I indulged in the buffet breakfast offered by the hotel. It was nice for a cold breakfast. The coffee was fantastic. I washed up in the hotel restroom and headed out to the town of Darmstadt. Now knowing the trains a bit better, I was much more confident about my travels. I arrived in Darmstadt, hopped the city bus, taking the scenic route across town to the Mathildenhoehe artist's colony section of town using a crappy map I printed off the Internet.

The artist's colony was in part, a labor of love by the late Grand Duke of Hesse, Ernst Ludwig. It still thrives today. Something I'm sure would've pleased him. Light snow blanketed the ground and it was a magnificent backdrop against the art nouveau buildings. I read somewhere that this area of Darmstadt has the Grand Duke's imprint all over it and that you can still feel his presence here. I thought this a fitting statement as I half expected to bump into him taking a walk. Luckily, so much was left untouched in that area after WWII, and this allowed his vision to carry forth into the continuing decades.

Another must see for me was the Russian church that was commissioned by Tsar Nicholas II. His wife, Alexandra, was Ernst's sister. She was also a princess of Hesse-Darmstadt. What was special were the banners in the church that were sewn by Alexandra herself. They are framed, but you can get up close and touch the glass protecting them (it's an Orthodox relic thing). I purchased a small book about the chapel and even got to try out some basic Russian on the babushka working in the church.

There wasn't time to visit Rosenhohe, the Hesse family crypt, but what I saw was enough in my short day. Hopefully, I'll get to visit another time.

I walked back into town, reaching the Schlossplatz market square in front of the Ducal Palace. There, I watched some street musicians, and took in the scene all around me. Darmstadt is a much more staid town, not a lot of tourists, so I felt I got to see a more realistic picture of every day life here. I walked the main shopping street and stumbled upon an old classic red British phone booth. I caught the bus at Luisenplatz to the train station and resorted to ordering fish and chips at one of the shops there. It was at Nordsee which I've seen around Europe, so I trusted them, despite Darmstadt's landlocked position in the country.

Once back at the hotel, I showered and changed, ready to meet up with my friend, who was so kind to visit me from the UK. We headed out walking Zeil, the main street in the old section of Frankfurt, until we came upon a beer garden. I suggested the apple wine, which is a Frankfurt "thing" and we were surprised at how bitter it tasted. The crowd was impressively genteel, especially since everyone was drinking out of glasses in the middle of the open square. If this had been NYC or the UK, you can be sure those things would've been smashed to bits by night's end. To complement the atmosphere, the bells began ringing from St. Katherine's church across the way, and it was lovely. We found a place to eat, had a sub-par dinner, and I with my jet lag, called it an early night.

Off To Frankfurt

2009-02-12T17:37:00.007-05:00

Occasionally, (okay, I lied. all the time) I trawl the Internet looking for cheap airfares. Naturally, something's going to bite back…and it did. Looking for something to do this President's/Valentine's Day weekend, I toyed with the idea of visiting either Chicago, Montreal, or staying close to home and go on another jaunt to Philadelphia.

I felt lackluster in my attempts to decide and so gave myself over to chance. Chance came through in the form of a super cheap airfare to Frankfurt, Germany. We're talking about the same price to fly to Chicago and less than a flight to Montreal for this weekend.

I only have two days and a bit there, but it's a weekend getaway, which is all I wanted. I wasn't allowed additional days off.

Photos of St. Petersburg & Moscow

2009-01-12T12:36:00.002-05:00

It probably shouldn't come as a surprise to some that Russia was my dream destination for quite awhile. The trip report was long, but barely scratched the surface of my experiences. The people, food, stores, shopping, restaurants, and the little nuances of the city that weren't necessarily reportable are locked in my head, becoming morsels of intense flavor every time something triggers my memory.

St. Petersburg - There were times when I had to put my camera away because the architecture is drop dead gorgeous to the point where you give up; the brain has too much beauty to process. I would venture to guess that many tourists walk St. Petersburg in a dream state. I certainly did.

Tsarskoe Selo - If I had posted all the photos I took of the Alexander Palace, you would've stopped associating with me. Thankfully for you, I'll leave those snaps for the Romanov forum I visit.

Moscow - Moscow was short yet enjoyable. I missed out on the Kremlin, but still saw much in my only full day here. Walking around the empty streets the next morning was a soothing way to reflect on my hectic week and provided an opportunity to have the city to myself.

Lost Splendor - This album was a both a labor of love and an experiment in memory. I've always wanted to connect the Imperial past to the post-Tsarist present, and although it didn't turn out as expected, I was surprised there was enough to get this far.

Photos of Helsinki & Tallinn

2009-01-11T14:31:00.001-05:00

Helsinki was such a short lived experience that it would be unfair to give any major opinions about it. Still, the city was such a great starting point to kick start my Russia trip. I always say "my Russia trip" but it's an unfair tag because Helsinki was planned intentionally as a stopping point on the journey. Although it's clearly Scandinavian, the Russian influences are apparent in the colorful architecture that dots the city.

Tallinn, on the other hand, wasn't on my radar until my friend D visited. I'm grateful he did because I probably wouldn't have considered a stay if he hadn't. It's a stunning city, and I managed to enjoy what I could, despite the freezing hypothermia induced blizzard. I would definitely go back to both cities.

Helsinki & Tallinn

Photos of Hong Kong

2009-01-10T12:04:00.003-05:00

Hong Kong was the perfect mix of east meets west and I'm grateful to have given it a go on a side trip. There was never a dull moment here. This is a place I would love to come back to visit for a longer period of time. The city is so vibrant and full of life, but manages to keep it's culture alive despite it's status as a global financial center.

Hong Kong

Photos of Taiwan

2009-01-08T01:15:00.009-05:00

Going through these photos after the fact made me realize how much I think of this trip more than I give credit for. How much the little details of my short time there have seeped into my brain, and weren't reported in the trip report. The memories are quite colorful. It's still a bit unreal to have been to Taiwan, especially considering the reasons for going. Even others, when the country is brought up in conversation, have been quizzical about why I have visited.

Still, I tried to capture the spirit of Taipei (and the other towns), and show all sides of the city, but there was so much that was intrinsically foreign to me and I feared appearing like a tacky, insensitive American tourist who is hell bent on only capturing the perceived "weirdness" of Eastern countries. That was a trap I didn't want to fall into.

Taipei

Jiufen

Yehliu

This is Me, Lately

2009-01-03T23:53:00.012-05:00

I've been a very bad blogger lately. I've abandoned probably the two or three people who actually read this damn thing. So, it shouldn't come as a surprise to these relative few that I have been quite busy lately. I've just come down from a few big things, school and travel, and I'm a tired girl. I know the last one is a cop out, but since I've traveled to seven countries in three months, I have quite the excuse to wallow in a little bit of self pity. I finally released my posts about the Asia and Russia trips, over one and two months after I returned, along with a post including my thoughts about the election.

School finished up shortly before Christmas and I turned in a research paper I am very proud of. It's about the history and symbolism of the murals of Belfast, Northern Ireland. I was informed that I got A's in all my classes but that elation is momentary because starting Monday, I begin my algebra class. If there's one subject that boggles my mind, it's math. According to my transcripts, I need one more math class to satisfy my curriculum requirements. My grueling Statistics 101 class transferred over but according to the university, two algebra classes are needed in order to take a few of my statistical history courses.

Using the last of my time off, I scheduled a "staycation", and spent the past ten days at my mother's house lolling around doing nothing. The blizzard we had didn't help matters much and at times relaxation turned into cabin fever. Still, I got some retail therapy in, finally breaking down to buy some ice skates. I'm looking into taking classes soon.

Another thing. I'm toying with the idea of switching over to Wordpress. Who knows if/when that transition will occur, but it will have to be when I have enough down time.

Day 9 - Moscow & Home

2008-12-18T16:59:00.029-05:00

Sunday, 11/30 -

I had to get moving if I wanted to visit the Martha & Mary Convent (Marfo-Mariinsky). This was firmly on my Moscow to do list. I visited the convent during Sunday service but not knowing the protocol of Russian Orthodoxy, hung back watching, not participating. The walk back was quicker (isn't always that way?) and I stopped to take more photos of Red Square. The streets were empty save for me and the stray dogs who seem to have the run of the city.

C, was up, having had a lay in and helped me to the metro station. Bless him. My suitcase weighed a ton. We saw each other off with a hug and a cheek kiss, setting off the turn style alarm. It wasn't until I got home that I realized I had some feelings for him, but then quickly brushed that idea off. I grabbed the airport express train at Pavlovskaya station, relaxed, and took in the Russian scenery.

Security at DME was insane. I chose this airport specifically because AA flies out of it and it's not all Soviet and crazy like at SVO. In addition to all the security questions and frisking they do when you arrive, you are also questioned and frisked when you reach your flight gate. Here, every single thing is taken out of your carry on, opened, and examined, even your shoes. I have never had that experience before at a flight gate. They also want to make sure that no one has approached you in the airport.

The flight was uneventful, and half empty. It was great to get a row all to myself and to sleep. Delays in Chicago and my 10PM arrival time in Newark turned into a 2AM arrival. There was no public transport so I had to wait over an hour in line at the taxi stand. Thankfully, I sat near two other people on the plane who lived in my neighborhood; we agreed to share a cab to cut costs. I didn't walk through my front door until 4AM.

Overall, my trip was fantastic. It was probably the best vacation I have ever taken to what is now my most favorite destination.

I learned a lot on this adventure and had to figure out many things and work with people who I felt were at times, against me. I met so many other travelers and learned so much about them and their reasons for being in the same place I happened to be. The exchange of information between us all is something I'll never forget. Just being told that I could buy my train ticket a short way away from the hostel instead of trekking down to the station saved me tons of time and allowed me to focus on the more important parts of the trip. Yes, I could've done without the blizzard in Tallinn, practically splitting my head open after falling on the ice in St Petersburg, or dealing with the frigid attitudes around Russia in general. But, everything happens for a reason, and I believe I gained something important out of the bad, along with the good.

If I hadn't been brave or adventurous, I would've blown my money on group tours and only seen things a short sighted package creator wanted me to see. I could've been safe and sound in a hired car, at a loss to my bank account, instead of learning the metro systems or flagging down a marshrutka and sitting next to real people. Throughout my travels, my moments of anxiety quickly calmed once I realized I was reaching my destinations, because in their own little way, Russians make sure you're going to be alright.

I walk away from this trip knowing that this was the one I learned the most from. Sure, I was brave to go it alone on the back roads of Taiwan. I know this. But Russia was different. No one smiles at strangers there. No one is eager to try out their English, or to accept that other people speak different languages. Unlike Taiwan, there is no shared understanding of differences. In Russia, it is what it is. So, when I go back, and I say that in the affirmative, I will be more prepared. Who knows, I might even show the locals a thing or two.

Day 8 - Moscow

2008-12-18T12:59:00.061-05:00

Saturday, 11/29 -

Oddly enough, I slept pretty good on the train considering this was the one place I assumed I would get no shut eye. I had booked a 2nd class kupe and catching the train was easier than I imagined it would be. My roommate was an older woman who was deep in thought almost the entire trip writing. I had hoped it would only be the two of us. Then, a cute guy arrived, but the smell of vodka on his breath ruined all chances of my ever fantasizing about him again.

Both the man and woman pretty much ignored me, speaking only to one another, except for the man who asked where I was from. I replied, "United States", and he was confused. I told him, "New York City", and he said "Oh, America". Oh, and the man was super strong, hauling my suitcase up into the overhead space. With all the books I purchased at Dom Kingi, I'm surprised he didn't put his back out. Once in awhile, as they were talking amongst themselves, they would both glance at me. I'm sure, by the looks, they were talking about me. A lone American woman without much knowledge of the language must've been a curious sight to them.

We arrived at Moscow Station on time. Russian trains run timely to a fault. I had another experience with squat toilets in the station restroom, thinking I'd left that behind for good in Taiwan. As I was leaving, the most gut wrenching incident occurred - a kitten. Someone must have recently dumped a kitten in the station and it was left to defend itself. Russia has a huge stray problem and it wasn't unusual to see dogs and cats allover the place. However, seeing a kitten scared and crying was too much for me to take. I bought a chicken wing and placed it behind the timetable board where it was hiding out. Talk about your heartstrings being pulled.

Getting to the hostel was a chore, especially now that I had a suitcase that weighed a ton. I didn't read the directions properly and became lost once I got to the Kitai Gorad stop, which has several different exits. Eventually, I found the hostel and was met by silence. There was no reception person around. Instead, on the sofa lay many individuals sleeping, including what I was later to discover, the reception person. I was getting anxious, I had only one full day in Moscow and the clock was ticking. I met C, who had also just arrived from St. Petersburg, and he had also stayed in the same place I had, although we never crossed paths.

I searched for, and found, a clean towel taking it upon myself to take a shower and get ready - some of it in the middle of the reception room. Finally fed up, I called the customer service number on the wall and complained in such a snotty way. Then, several phones began ringing and the reception person was roused from her slumber. Acknowledging C and I, she told us flat out that check-in time was at 12 noon and we were to put our luggage in the hallway. C asked if I would mind a travel companion. I was hesitant at first considering he saw me at my bitchy worst, but I decided I could redeem myself and agreed. Besides, I met so many people, and didn't want to pass on another opportunity to get to know others.

Our first stop was Red Square, Lenin's mausoleum. The security for gaining access is a chore. Once you enter it's dark, and military personnel are lining the entire route around Lenin's body. There is no opportunity to stop, you must keep walking. You basically walk around Lenin. He's so weird looking and incredibly waxy. It's no surprise that there's a debate over whether that's really him in there.

One thing I noticed is that one hand is formed into a fist and the other is out casually. You can't see his legs and he's a bit propped up. C commented on all the marble inside the mausoleum but I couldn't take my eyes off Lenin for a moment, it was so eerie. You exit into the Kremlin Wall Necropolis which is a burial ground for past Soviet leaders and famous people. Later on, while we were waiting for photo ops outside the mausoleum, a woman took a photo of her dog after she had posed it outside, in front of Lenin's Mausoleum. I wished I had taken a picture of this, but missed it.

C and I went into the State Historical Museum realizing only afterwards that it wasn't the Armoury museum. In my confusion of the day, and lack of proper map, we didn't realize that the Kremlin entrance was something different entirely until a few minutes after it closed. I was upset but considering all we saw, it wasn't the worst thing in the world. St. Basil Cathedral held my interest more outside than inside. The amount of brides arriving to get their photos taken in front of everything in Red Square ran into double digits in the time we were there.

The walk to Christ the Savior Cathedral was freezing cold. Once there, we both got pushed around by a babushka, unhappy to see us wear gloves inside. She actually reached and yanked at them, indicating that they needed to come off...immediately. The rules for entering a Russian Orthodox church are: hats off for men, heads covered for women, and hands out of your pockets. Apparently, wearing gloves is disrespectful as well. All these rules!

We walked the famous Arbat Street from beginning to end where I broke down at Starbucks and bought a hot Tazo tea, welcoming capitalist American normalcy! We stopped in a few stores for souvenirs before moving on to tour the metro system a bit. The metro stations are amazing works of art. I couldn't remember at the time where I had read about the dog statue you're supposed to rub for good luck, but the stations we did see were all dazzling. We checked out a building of Stalinist architecture before grabbing a bite to eat.

It had been suggested to me previously that the food court in GUM was cheap and it was considering how expensive the city is. I finally indulged in Beef Stroganoff which tasted like it does back home, but at that moment felt oh so Russian.

It was a long day; by the end we felt it completely. I had to be up early the next morning if I wanted to have time to do a bit more and make my flight home.

Day 7 - St. Petersburg

2008-12-17T18:14:00.024-05:00

Friday, 11/28 -

My last day in St. Petersburg and I had to make it over the the Peter and Paul Fortress. First, I walked around looking for the Museum of Political History which is housed in the former home of prima ballerina Mathilde Kschessinska. She happened to be Nicholas II's first love before moving on to two of his cousins. This house is also famous for being taken over by Lenin after he arrived in 1917 on a sealed train from Germany to Finland Station. Again, I didn't purchase the photo permit and frantically took photos when the room guardian wasn't watching me like a hawk. Those babushka's sure do take their jobs seriously. I managed a photo of Lenin's study before moving on to other sites. In the neighborhood, I stopped at the mosque, the memorial to the victims of Stalin's Gulag, and Petrovskaya quay to see Peter the Great's cabin. Then, it was time to move onto Peter and Paul Fortress.

It's a fortress alright. A huge one with tons of things inside, including a wonky statue of Peter the Great that's supposed to be a cast from a mask made of his real head placed onto a disproportionately sized body, making him look like something out of a Dr. Seuss book. I carried on to the Peter & Paul Cathedral which is the last resting place for the majority of the rulers of the Romanov dynasty. It was odd seeing the tombs of all those I had read about, especially the little kids. Seeing Nicholas' mother, Marie Feodorovna's tomb still dressed with flowers since she was reburied here from Denmark, two years ago, was nice, especially knowing that she would be happy to be resting next to her dear husband Sasha (Alexander III) again. It was what she had wished for in exile.

I then went to pay my respects at the room that held the last Tsar, his wife, their children, and the family's retainers, who were all massacred together that fateful night in Yekaterinburg. To tell you the truth, it was the oddest feeling in the world knowing how close in proximity I now was to them all.

The remains of both Alexei and (presumably) Maria were discovered last year. They will soon join their parents and siblings once DNA is confirmed by several different teams. Until that time comes, their epitaphs on the wall will remain incomplete.

I spent the remainder of my time walking around the fortress, taking in the views of the city. Once back in city center, after stopping to admire Smolny Cathedral, I purchased souvenirs at a place behind Church on Spilled Blood and pretty much got smothered by one of the vendors who was intent on me purchasing his entire inventory. It was okay considering I waited till the last minute to do my souvenir shopping and was momentarily defeated to see almost all of the stalls shuttered for the night. In hindsight, our exchange was hilarious. Afterwards, I stopped for a minute on the bridge nearby, pausing to take in all that was in front of me. Muttering sweet nothings and blowing silent kisses to the city, I swore on my life, like Marie Feodorovna, I would one day come back.

I said my goodbyes at the hostel and headed via metro to the train station, finally holding my own among the crowds with heavy luggage, for my overnight trip to Moscow.

Day 6 - St. Petersburg

2008-12-17T15:55:00.051-05:00

Thursday, 11/27 -

Aside from the Hermitage, another must see spot is the town of Pushkin, or Tsarskoe Selo to us Romanov purists. Located about 15 miles outside of the city, this was clearly a day trip and I armed myself as much information as possible in the months and days prior to getting here. I also took the metro for the first time in order to get to Moscovskaya Ploshad to catch a minibus to the palaces.

On the metro, I realized I had lost the little key that locked my LeSportSac tote. I did this to thwart any potential pick pockets, but kept the key on it's chain around the zipper. For the two years I have had this bag, that key has stayed on it's chain attached to the zipper. Given my luck, it decides to fall off at the most inopportune time of my life. Once in Moscovskaya station, I approached a woman working a newspaper kiosk and made what might possibly be the international symbol for scissors with my hands. Showing her my locked bag, which looked as if the zipper was stuck shut, she passed me a dull pair of scissors and I stood there for what felt like an eternity, carefully cutting into my bag in order to gain access to my stuff. Exiting the metro, I passed someone who looked as if he had taken a bad fall. Blood was pouring from his forehead and people surrounded him to help. I remembered my fall on the unforgiving ice and said a silent prayer that he would be alright.

Passing the House of Soviets, I was highly amused by the huge statue of Lenin with Christmas trees on each side on him. He most certainly wouldn't have seen the irony. Chesme Church was nearby, so I decided to venture a little further to find it. It was worth the effort looking for it, and the church looks like a cute pink and white candy confection against the stark Soviet block housing back drop. Chesme Palace is across the street, but it too has zero luster.

Finding the correct minibus to Tsarskoe Selo was at first, a chore. Once I found it however, I was fine. Called marshrutka, minibuses are common in Russia and are run mostly by private individuals. They are quasi-official and very safe. You simply flag them like a taxi cab and hop on, paying once you reach your stop. Since they are minivans, if full, they won't pick you up. Thankfully, I didn't have this problem, but it was a bit lip biting considering it was my first time riding in one and not really knowing the protocol. I repeated "Pushkin" a few times for stops I wasn't sure of, and the driver realized he was dealing with a complete novice. So, when the van stopped in front of the Alexander Palace and I wanted to get off, there was a test of wills between us when he shook his head no and saying "Pushkin" (which he assumed I had wanted) wasn't here. I repeated over and over again "Alexander Palace" fervidly pointing towards the palace to give indication this was where I really wanted to be.

There is no greater moment, so far in my travels, than to have the Alexander Palace appear before me. This was the moment in all of the years I have studied this imperial dynasty that was meaningful to my hobby. It was snowing heavily, but that didn't deter me at all. Prior to entering the museum, I lingered around the grounds. This was both for photo ops and to calm myself down. The outside of the palace is a sad state of affairs; it's crumbling and in desperate need of repairs. Rumor has it the Bolsheviks and subsequent parties hated Nicholas II so much that they considered this palace, his favorite and last residence, to be of no use historically. Focusing on the Winter Palace, Peterhof, Pavlosk, and Catherine Palace seemed to be more to their concern.

The right wing of the palace is in shambles, but there is currently work going on to repair this side, although it looks like a rescue, not a revamp. Sad. The left wing, where the last Tsar and his family lived, is where the museum is located. After checking my belongings in the cloakroom (this is such a Russian thing, you must check your belongings everywhere you go!), and putting the protective booties over my boots, I entered and passed the point of no return. Because much of the contents of the palace were looted, sold off, or destroyed during the WWII German occupation, so much is gone. Instead, the museum has placed huge black and white photos on the wall to give the appearance of what the rooms once looked like. Much of Alexandra's room is gone, a few pieces remain. Nicholas' study is pretty much the only room whose contents are intact. Even more sad are some of the displays showing the children's toys and their clothing.

Walking around Alexander Park taking in as much as possible, I could see the Children's House, weather beaten and in need of a spruce up. It was built as a playhouse for past generations of imperial children. Since the park is free and open to the public, the solemness was broken up by children sledding and building snowmen just meters from the palace. The pigeons stop, several surrounding you at almost every step. I guess they are so used to tourists feeding them they've become spoiled and unafraid of humans. Frankly, it resembled a scene out of the movie The Birds!

Okay, I have a confession to make. I didn't tour the inside of the Catherine Palace. I know, hop on the cross and nail myself there. But, I really had no interest considering the preference to spend as much time as possible at the Alexander Palace. Instead, I walked the grounds around it, taking photos. If it had not got dark so early, I would have ventured inside for a tour. This time, I had bigger fish to fry. Oh well, another time. I did swing down past the Tepper De Ferguson house, which was the former home of Alexandra's friend Anna Vyrbrovna. Anna was the one who introduced Rasputin to the family. It was at her home that Rasputin and the imperial family paid many visits together. This was because the meetings wouldn't be recorded by court officials if he came to the palace. I also passed the statue of Pushkin for whom the town was renamed after.

My next stop was someplace not many venture out to, the abandoned train station of the last Tsar. It's out a ways on the other side of Pushkin, near the university. It sits there, abandoned and vandalized, now a place where teenagers go to party and create mischief. The smaller imperial crests are still up, the big one in front has been taken down, but you can still trace the image of the imperial eagle. The station is probably one of the few hold overs from Russian imperial times. It was getting too dark at this point and being female, foreign, and alone, I decided against going inside, even though one of the doors was propped open. Had I been with someone, or if it were daytime, I would have SO been inside that station. But, I guess I'll leave that excitement for another trip. On my way back into the town center, I visited the Feodorovskiy Cathedral, which was commissioned by Nicholas II and was the family's favorite church. A service was in session and I bought a small icon of the family in the store on the grounds. They've been canonized as saints, so you can supposedly pray to them.

I flagged a minibus back to St. Petersburg, happy about my day and all I had seen. Thanksgiving was that same day. I may have left the US, but the US never leaves me. So, I found a nice place to eat my harvest meal, at the Dicken's Pub on the Fontanka Canal, and tucked into a cottage pie.

Walking back to the hostel, I surveyed the city so far. Four days in and still loving everything I had seen. I stopped into the Dom Knigi bookstore, which occupies space in the Singer building, and bought books, post cards, and a calendar. I was done shopping for myself and called it a night.

Day 5 - St. Petersburg

2008-12-17T11:53:00.026-05:00

Wednesday, 11/26 -

My day started with a bang, literally. Coming back from buying tickets for the overnight train to Moscow on Friday, I slipped and fell on the ice - hard. Seriously, I thought I had split my head open it was so bad. Thankfully, a passing man pulled me up. No words were exchanged. He just pulled me up and walked away. How Russian women do it, especially since they wear miniskirts in the freezing weather and spiked high heels, is beyond me. I think the spikes do double duty as ice picks in order to conquer the icy streets.

I had my first real intensely frustrating language barrier problem when the woman behind the counter did not understand my attempts to purchase a train ticket. Coming to the rescue was a stranger who spoke English and translated my request to the woman behind the ticket counter. Otherwise, I'm sure I would've probably been sent to someplace in Siberia. Still, I'm glad to have purchased my ticket in Russia and not in the US through a middle party, because it saved a lot of money.

I needed to get the Hermitage out of the way. If this didn't happen, there would definitely be regrets! Russia has a tier system in regards to admission prices. Foreigners are almost always required to pay more, often double, than Russians. If you can speak Russian, you're fine, otherwise, you have to pay up. Because I'm currently a student, admission was free. I did however, purchase the photography pass. This, I regretted because it wasn't needed. Personal photography here seems to be a free for all, pass be damned.

I'm not going to go into the history of the Hermitage, but it's a definite can't miss for anyone who travels to St. Petersburg. It's extensive and what you see doesn't touch the surface of all the art they have inventory of. The rooms are as sumptuous as the art on display. In fact, some rooms are works of art themselves. After getting my bearings and oohing and ahhing at the Jordan Staircase, I headed first to the Russian section only to be disappointed that most of it was closed for the season. Shit. I did get to see the famous Malachite Room though. I spent most of the day making my way around most of the museum before calling it a day. I was bummed not to see any of the famous cats who roam the place. The cats are so famous, they have their own press secretary!

The remainder of the day was spent again, walking the city streets, popping into shops, and allowing myself to get semi-lost in the maze of canals and side streets that continued to offer visual treats.

I love this city. Sore head and all. I really do.

Day 4 - St. Petersburg

2008-12-16T17:54:00.023-05:00

Tuesday, 11/25 -

The day was planned primarily to see some imperial spots and some palaces that weren't open to the public. I figured for the purposes of my mind racing with all of the smaller visual treats I wanted to see, I should get this out of the way. Plus, it made for a perfect way to get my bearings around this beautiful city.

I began on Millionaya Ulitsa (Millionaire's Street), aptly named for the once grand homes that still line the street today, but without the splendor of the past. One thing I could not shake my entire visit here was seeing palaces and sumptuous homes whose rooms had been turned into apartments for the working classes after the Revolution. Curiously, I also wondered about the fate of the previous owners who either fled the country once Lenin took power or stayed and risked imminent death. I walked along the street aside the complex which made up the Hermitage, making sure
not to break my neck on the icy streets. In Russia, they don't shovel the sidewalks, so you are left to fend for yourself.

Walking around the Winter Palace area, I walked up the Admiralty until I reached the Bronze Horseman. It wasn't as awe inspiring as you see it in photos, more like, "meh", but I went ahead and snapped a photo anyway. Afterwards, I stopped into St. Isaac's Cathedral. I paid the admission with a 1,000 ruble bill and winced as the woman snatched it away and began gesticulating wildly behind the glass. I couldn't hear her cursing me out for giving her such a large bill, which was just as well. St. Isaac's is not as heart stopping as Church on Spilled Blood, but gorgeous nonetheless. I didn't know it until later, but I was somehow corralled into a Russian speaking tour group. Thinking this was the only way to see the inside (there are some places that require you to have a guide), I complied and remained silent, not giving away the fact I wasn't fluent in Russian.

It wasn't until the group passed an English speaking couple that I realized had I murmured something, anything, in English to the woman at the entrance, I could've gone it alone, that a group wasn't a requisite. By then, I was too far into the group experience to excuse myself without embarrassment, especially since I often nodded my head for effect. Besides, the funny thing is that there are no signs in English explaining anything, and through the guide's hand gestures, and a few English words adopted into the Russian language, I actually figured out some of the things she was talking about. Also, being in a group allowed me to take photos without buying the additional photography pass that many Russian museums require you to buy in order to snap photos. My biggest fear was that the guide would stop and ask us direct questions.

Afterwards, I ventured over the Moika Embankment, still enjoying the multitude of pastel painted Italianate grand homes, and visited the Yusupov Palace. I tried to get into the Rasputin group without success. This is probably one of the only museums where you would need to hire a guide in order to see a certain part of a museum. Only those who speak Russian are allowed to venture into the basement for this special once a day tour where the murder of Rasputin took place. I couldn't fool the woman in the ticket booth and the sign specifically forbids any non-Russian speakers from taking the tour without a guide, even for a look at the room. I decided not to push it and went with the regular house tour. I didn't buy a photography pass and got caught out by one of the many room guards you see. I did manage to snap a few quick panicked shots in places where the guards weren't around, but my racing heart kept this to a minimum.

The sun was shining, a rare treat in November here, so I ran back to St. Isaac's to use the other portion of my ticket, the outside observatory, hoping to catch a sunny vista. St. Petersburg isn't known for its skyline views so this was a bit of a disappointment. I ran back over and finished my self tour of the Moika embankment, stopping in front of Grand Duchess Xenia Alexandrovna's former home. In their haste to erase the memory of all of royalty, the Bolsheviks must have forgotten that her gates still have her initials on them. I walked past the home of Grand Duke Alexei Alexandrovich, the favorite uncle of the last Tsar and namesake of Nicholas' doomed son. Grand Duke Alexei was also the inspiration for the New Orlean's Mardi Gras Rex Parade, and it's official colors, which honor the colors of the Russian flag. His time in the US was legendary, if much forgotten. The home was recently purchased by someone who is lovingly restoring this gorgeous palace back to its original state. I only hope the interior can match the splendor it once was.

By this time, it was getting dark and taking a wrong turn ended me up on a street off of Dekabristov Ulitsa. I stumbled upon an old school store where you have to ask for everything behind the counter. This is where I purchased my vodka because it was much cheaper than the neighborhood I was staying in. What was odd was seeing the illegal vodka (a huge market here) right there in jam jars for sale among the prestigious brands, but of course, on the bottom shelves.

I purchased some bananas (pronounced "bananas", thankfully!) and the woman behind the counter was excited to speak English with me, as little as she could speak, and she smiled upon learning I was from NYC. People don't smile here, so it was strange to see someone so gregarious towards me. In fact, I read that in Russia, smiling at strangers is considered to be a sign of mental illness. Since I was totally enjoying my trip and happy about everything in my pathway, I must've looked liked I escaped from Bedlam.

All that getting lost got me hungry, so once I got myself back on track and onto the Moika, I stopped into the Café Idiot for some pelemi covered in sour cream (smentana). They give you a shot of vodka once you sit down. A great way to end the day's travels.

Day 3 - St. Petersburg

2008-12-08T20:39:00.023-05:00

Monday, 11/24 -

The bus pulled into Baltic Station and I adjusted my watch an additional hour ahead. Just before we got off, I was witness to a horrible act. There were tons of mothers with young children on my bus. In waking them to get off, one little girl gave that whiny little cry that kids do when they are woken up out of the blue. Poor lamb; she had my sympathy. If adults hate this, kids must hate it more. While she was fidgeting and crabbily murmuring her disappointment, the mother hauled off and slapped her open handed across the face! The speed was like an open handed punch. All without saying a word, and silently carrying on like she had not just beat her kid.

We arrived about 45 minutes later than expected and this screwed me over because I had ordered a car transfer to my hotel. I guess they wouldn't wait or I couldn't find them, but I ended up resorting to what I dreaded - taking a taxi cab. Taking a cab in Russia is a true rip-off experience for tourists. It's what I wanted to avoid and what ended up being my only recourse. I could've taken the metro, but it was rush hour and the Russians are unforgiving during this time. I, with my large suitcase and carry on, would be no match - yet.

Finding an ATM was easy, thankfully, I could do the transaction in English, my saving grace. It wasn't until afterwards that I discovered I should've requested the smaller bills option the ATM ("bank-o-mat") offered, which had perplexed me. My first lesson. Hardly anyone takes anything over 500 rubles here! I completed another transaction getting smaller bills, which enabled me to show my face again to the woman running the little store who had previously refused my request to pay for a beverage with a large bill. Trudging through snow and passing the rush hour crowd and stray dogs, I reluctantly approached the taxi stand. The cab twisted and turned through the dark city streets. A flash of green appeared before me and I realized we were passing the Winter Palace. My face to the window, I savored that view for as long as I could until it disappeared when the driver turned a corner.

After finding and settling into the hostel, I had breakfast at the Nevsky Grand and headed out to explore. I had been in a tizzy over my bad start and really needed to begin my love affair with the city. My first stop was Church on Spilled Blood, which was only a few blocks from where I stayed. Coming up on the church, at first, I could only see people snapping photos. I knew what they were taking pictures of and so braced myself. Taking in a low voice, I said "brace yourself, brace yourself, steady…", rounded the corner and semi-burst into tears. I was finally here, finally in St. Petersburg, and the emotions just hit me right there and then. The church was even more breath taking inside and I merrily snapped away at everything I could, knowing that the richly colored images would not produce a bad photo, but they could never quite express the actual feeling of being there.

Next, was a walk up Nevsky Prospect, snapping away at anything that caught my eye - a statue of Catherine the Great, a McDonald's sign in Cyrillic, the Anichkov Palace, and the Beloselsky-Belozersky Palace. This palace was historically special to me because it once belonged to Grand Duchess Ella, Empress Alexandra's sister. It's also architecturally stunning. I stopped into a cafe to order hot chocolate with somewhat passable Russian. I was second guessing myself on the translation, but the word chocolate is the same in Russian as it is in English, so I had that working in my favor.

My last stop for the day would be at the Mikhailovsky Palace, a branch of the Russian Museum. It was my first entrance into a former palace. The rooms are works of art themselves here and when I was finished looking at the artifacts, stared in amazement at the architecture surrounding me.

Since I traveled in the month of November, darkness arrived much earlier. I headed back and met my fellow hostel mates. They were all from England and Ireland, and we hung around chatting about the city, learning a thing or two from one another. I learned that through the back courtyard, the hostel was literally just steps from the Winter Palace/Hermitage, and where to purchase a train ticket to Moscow nearby without wasting time going several miles away to the actual train station. I decided to head out once again to take some night photos before coming back and calling it a night.

Day 2 - Tallinn

2008-12-07T21:03:00.027-05:00

Sunday, 11/23 -

I don't know. If I had a crystal ball, I might not have included Tallinn if there was any prior knowledge of what would be in store for me. The second day of my trip was mostly a dud due to the severe icy blizzard that pounded the city for the entire day. I can handle snow but not wind slamming into me at who knows how many miles-a-minute. At times, I had to brace myself against the wind so that it didn't pick me up and carry me off someplace.

When I wasn't freezing to death, I was trying to take some photos that didn't come out blurry due to icy snow pelting the camera lens. The added bonus of souvenir shopping and visiting museums was that I could also use it as an opportunity to fight hypothermia from setting in. I did manage to visit the Museum of Occupation which documents Estonia's occupation by the former Soviet Union. Most things were closed due the the inclement weather, but I did get to step inside the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral for a look around.

How I longed to be back in that sauna, warm and without a care in the world!

At dusk, I lazed around in a café for a bit, drinking hot chocolate before searching for St. Catherine Passage. I stepped inside a souvenir shop to be met by a woman who had the most unfortunate job of dressing like an Estonian peasant girl in order to look some part. I saw this at Olde Hansa as well. How demeaning! I never understood the jobs with the period dress requirement. After leaving the cafe and bundling up, my bra came undone after leaving and it was proving unbearable by now. So, since there was no one in the store or around, I explained the situation and asked if I could use the restroom to fix my problem. The woman replied that she did not have a public restroom but I was free to fix my bra right there as there was no one in sight.

There I was, arms reaching behind me, up the back of my sweater to re-hook my bra, all while apologizing over and over. Peasant girl assured me that it has happened to her and that she completely understood. I then pictured her in serf dress addressing a modern undergarment problem and had to refrain from laughing. Thankfully, I bought something or else that would have been even more embarrassing to walk out empty handed after displaying such a personal problem.

After eating a large dinner in the town square, I had no recourse but to go back to the hotel. I'm happy to have picked this hotel because they were very accommodating considering I had already checked out that morning. The front desk arranged a cab to the bus station and told me to sit by the fireplace and warm up. What I did see of the city was nothing but beauty. It reminded me much of Bruges, medieval and frozen in time. I came to love what I could experience and hope to go back and tour Estonia as a whole.

If there was one interesting thing I got out of Estonia it was the experience of going through both Estonian and Russian immigration at the borders of Narva and Ivangorod.

The bus ride through Estonia to St. Petersburg was slow going due to the bad weather. There are no street lights on the highway; you can only really see what is illuminated by the headlights on the bus. I could make out that this route passed mostly through countryside with a few farms popping up every so often. Once we pulled into Narva, Estonia, there was a considerable wait while immigration officials got on the bus, took all of our passports, and went back to the office to process all of our information and search the bus. This lasted about an hour until the official got back on the bus and handed our passports back to us. The bus drove through a security zone for about a quarter mile until it reached Ivangorod, Russia. Then, the fun began!

While it was a harmless procedure, immigration in Ivangorod, for an American, was quite fearful. I think more so for me considering I knew absolutely no Russian and my first impressions were so...Soviet. There were two other Americans on the bus and we all just followed the other passenger's queues on what to do. That included getting our coats on, taking all of our belongings off the bus, and heading into a classic Soviet style building to go through Russian immigration. First off, I have never seen so much green in my lifetime, different shades of the color too. Green building, green walls, green trim, and green passport control booths. The only other color was red as in red line for declaring customs, red for stop don't do this or don't do that. Otherwise, if you had nothing to declare, you went through, you guessed it, the green line.

There was a long wait, and I decided to use the filthy restroom while I could as there was no bathroom on the bus. Processing was easy and the immigration officials were gruff but nice. My passport was stamped, the suitcase put through the x-ray machine, and I was done and processed. There was a point where I wanted to take a picture, on the sly of course, of the outside of the immigration center. I decided against it. Maybe that was a good idea.

The bus passed through several more security checkpoints before moving on towards St. Petersburg. I couldn't believe I was finally in Russia!

Day 1 - Helsinki

2008-12-07T11:40:00.024-05:00

Once again, as with the Taiwan trip, I had wonky access to a computer.

Saturday, 11/22-

The flight to Helsinki went smoothly with one little snafu - a very large man sat next to me and half of his body spilled over into my seat. At one point, I even used his crooked arm as a book rest while he slept. Otherwise, it was your typical economy class filled to the brim overseas flight.

We landed in Helsinki a little earlier than expected, which was great considering I was to have such a short stay and so welcomed the extra time. I left my carry on bag in the left luggage room, bought an all day tourist bus pass, and headed into the city for the day. Helsinki is a very easy city to manage and most everyone speaks English. In the short time there, I walked around or took the #3 tram. My first stop was in Senate Square and a visit to Tuomiokirkko, Helsinki's most famous Lutheran church.

Next, it was onto Uspenski Cathedral and Market Square, both in the same area. I thought the market a bit blah and too touristy, but what did I expect considering it was in a touristy area. I finally got to sample cloud berries, which are native to Finland and were a bit too tart for my tastes. There was also a bread and pastry stall that had some delicious samples. I wanted to buy some rahkapulla, which is like a cream cheese pastry, but Scandinavian countries are so expensive and how would I cart that around without devouring it all in one sitting?

After eating lunch, I tried to find the Sibelius Monument, but lost my bearings and veered east over near the opera house. A kind gentleman informed me of this when I stopped him on the street.

Temppeliaukion kirkko, or the rock church, was cool, and a christening was taking place, so we were held outside until it ended. Thankfully, I hugged the entrance so once the doors opened, I could make sure to take a photo of the church empty before it crowded with others.

Overall, Helsinki was a great town, but I wouldn't come here for an exclusive visit, unless it was part of a much more extensive trip to the country of Finland. The people are super friendly, and saying "kiitos" (thanks) gets automatic smiles.

I gave myself a lot of time to get back to the airport to make my flight to Tallinn, Estonia. Upset at missing out on the chance to shop at Hemtex, which I discovered in Denmark, I really could've gone back a little later, but due to personal experience, have major fears of missing my flights. I ended up sleeping the entire journey over, waking up a few minutes before we landed.

Once in Tallinn, I grabbed a taxi to my hotel, which was in the medieval Old Town section of the city. Estonia has the unfortunate history of being occupied not once, but twice by Russia. Only in the last twenty years has she been a free country and the relationship with Russia is a contentious one. Ethnic Russians make up 40% of the population, much to the chagrin of the native Estonians who are bitter towards their former occupiers. Being curious, in the cab on the way to the hotel, I asked the driver what his ethnicity was. He replied he was Russian and that Estonia was the true Russia. Okay. That would be my politics for the night.

I arrived at the Merchant House Hotel, which ended up being fantastic in every way possible. Just steps to the town square (Raekoja plats), the hotel is housed in a medieval building. My room had exposed wood beams and original stonework. I took advantage of the private sauna and it was pure bliss! My skin was smooth as a baby's bottom and my mind cleared of any stress. I also conked out on the bed wearing just the robe I returned to my room in!

The One Where I Learn Cyrillic

2008-11-18T20:03:00.016-05:00

I'm trying my damnedest to learn the Russian alphabet. It's pretty necessary if I'm going to do this trip independently. With my busy schedule, and a twist of laziness, so far, I have only learned a bit. A, K, M, O, T all match the Roman alphabet. P translates as R, C translates as S, etc. I'm getting it, but not quite. I assumed I would ace it early on, that is, until last week on the subway when I stood over a woman reading a Russian language magazine and I fully realized that I couldn't make any of the letters out.

So, after hunkering down and practicing, I can say somewhat confidently that I think I can manage. I've got quite a job ahead of me though, so that confidence might just go out the window, or fail me at an all too important moment.

Who knows if this knowledge will be retained past my trip. I need to learn a language for school and Russian has been a serious contender in my decision making.

Scenes From a Neighborhood

2008-11-05T21:48:00.019-05:00

Last night, was a historic day in America. It means that anyone, regardless of the color of their skin can be president of the United States of America. President-elect Obama was born during a time when many African-Americans were refused the right to vote and it was illegal in many states for his parents to marry. We've come a long way.

Walking down the street, it just felt as if the bulldozers arrived and leveled the playing field. The old regime is out, replaced by new blood and new ideas for reshaping this country. We need it, regardless of who was voted in.

Naturally, the park near my home is a historic place to go to in times of political victories, and defeats. Last night was certainly no different. We approached, the sounds of cheering and singing leading the way. It certainly was glorious. I felt elated and on a victorious high.

Every Move You Make, I'll Be Watching You

2008-11-04T11:24:00.014-05:00

Relief, freedom, alleviation, solace, comfort, peace…

All of these words describe my thoughts when today, I was handed a package containing my passport stamped with the visa for my upcoming trip to Russia.

Reading the various forums to get info for the visa process, I had myself believing I would be in tears by the time I stepped on the plane. A flashback years ago to the problems I had getting my first passport.

On an interesting note, it seems the Russian government knew my itinerary beforehand. In order to request a Russian visa one must obtain a "letter of invitation" (LOI). This is pretty much a formality that shows you have been formally "invited" to the country. One can either request this (for a cost) from your hotel or from an independent service. I went with the independent service, filled out the requisite information, and sent it on for approval. In the space where you list your accommodations, it's fine to list just one and not all the hotels you are staying at.

I figured I would only list the first hotel since this was where I was going to be registered (another Russian requirement). I was surprised when a day later, my invitation came back approved, showing both my hotels. How they knew, I'll never know, but it was freaky nonetheless. The watchful eye of the former Soviet Union is still powerful.

So, with visa in hand, I am allowed access into the country of Russia. I still can't get over the fact I'll be there in three weeks.

Asia Trip - Day 8

2008-10-30T23:36:00.023-04:00

Sunday, 10/12 -

My last day. Time to go home. My adventure in both Hong Kong and Taiwan was exciting, if at times frustrating. The day I was to leave, I had a lazy start considering I still had Taipei 101 to cross off my list. I trudged towards there, wishing I had done this first and gotten it out of the way so that I could perhaps do something else on my last day. I envisioned long lines and complicated people to deal with. Instead, the place had just opened for the day and myself and a bunch of Australians were part of the first group to go up for the day. I hadn't been in a building this high since the WTC and it left me feeling a bit melancholy.

The ride up is probably one of the fastest. The views up top were a bit disappointing considering Taipei doesn't have a lot of architecture to gaze at. Plus, it was overcast, so things were a blur past a few miles. Overall, I lasted about 10-15 minutes in the observatory before heading back down and calling it a day, but not without a stop at Starbucks, which is considered a high class establishment here. I became a bit weepy on the MRT thinking about all I had seen and done in this country. Also, thinking about the way in which I was able to come here made me count my blessings a lot more.

I took my time leaving the station, even stopping at the top of the escalators to take in the last of this system which helped me see much of the city. I walked at a slow pace back to the hostel, wanting to savor the feeling of being there. Saying my goodbyes and leaving the hostel, I grabbed a cab back to the railway station, but not before asking the driver to stop at Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall so I could take photos. Whatever feelings I had developed from my travels here good, bad, or indifferent, washed away and nostalgia kicked in for a country I had no intention of visiting until I dropped that sweepstakes slip into a box became a winner.

The lines at the airport were crazy and although I got there very early, it looked as if I wasn't going to make my flight. Luckily, I sought out an employee and told my tale of woe and was allowed to check in on the business line. An uneventful flight and a new discovery of Mos Burger rice burgers (freakin' delicious!!), I was lucky to snag another window seat. We got into JFK about 9:30pm, an hour earlier than expected. Still, there was the business about retrieving my luggage, clearing customs, and waiting for the express bus back to Grand Central. I didn't get in my apartment until a little before midnight, craving tap water and Mexican food. I didn't get to drink enough fluids prior to the flight home and paid the price with a lot of swelling. Boo!! Surprisingly, I had no real bout of jet lag, aside from napping in the evening a few days after I returned. Yeah!! A miracle, considering the twelve hour time difference.

This trip was different in many ways. I never intended to visit Taiwan and was surprised upon learning I had won a flight there. The language barrier was intense. Thankfully, both Taiwan and Hong Kong have excellent tourism infrastructures for English speakers. The people are wonderful and helpful, Taiwan especially. Still, I tried my best, and when it got frustrating, remembered how lucky I was to be there. Trust me, there were many frustrating moments. To be honest, I don't see myself going back to Taiwan on my own. I would go back if I were with someone who really wanted to visit, but it's not high up on my return list. Hong Kong on the other hand, I definitely want to visit again. The next time (if there is one), I would like to stay much longer and stay in Macao as well.

Originally, I shied away from other's compliments of my bravery. Looking back, I was brave. I did this alone. Aside from the help I received from M my first day, most of this trip was done on a wing and a prayer. If someone had told me years ago I would be on the back roads of a rural Taiwanese town waiting for a bus, I would've thought they were crazy. Today, I remember that feeling. The mix of fear and exhilaration that comes with conquering the unknown. I knew I'd be alright, even if I ended up back where I needed to be in a roundabout way. I am most definitely brave. Today, I own that appellation.

Asia Trip - Day 7

2008-10-28T20:59:00.036-04:00

Saturday, 10/11 -

Today, I got out much earlier than the day before. I was excited at going to my next destination, Yehliu. Yehliu is an odd place, but not by choice. It's famous for it's curious rock formations that formed due to sea erosion. It's absolutely stunning to see this in person and it all looks like they're made from clay. In fact, the ground has a soft feeling and does resemble clay, but it's not; it's rock. Because of the frequent rain northern Taiwan was having, certain parts of the ground looked muddy. It wasn't. Instead, spots were darkened from the rain and the many craters formed millions of years ago filled with water giving off the appearance of mud.

Again, it was a long holiday weekend and there were of course, many people about. I couldn't get a single shot of the famous Queen's Head without someone being in the background. Otherwise, it was really an interesting place to visit. The area around Yehliu Geo Park is dominated by the fishing industry, but the Geo park is a definite tourist attraction. I rarely saw Westerners around Taipei, let alone English speaking Westerners. Imagine my surprise when I came across a Western English speaker working at the park. Still, I was a curiosity for most and was aware of many eyes on me while walking around.

A curious thing happened on the bus back to Taipei. I sat next to a young woman who kindly went to remove her bottle of ice tea that was in the pocket in the seat back in front of me. I motioned that it was fine to leave the bottle there, it wasn't in the way. She said she remembered me from Yehliu then offered me some of the tea. I obliged; it was tasty. She introduced herself as Amy and apologized for her English. To be honest, it was pretty good. She probably just needed a few months of immersion in the US or Canada (Taiwanese learn American-English). We spent the bus ride back to the city talking and she was excited to learn I was from NYC. She pointed out a temple we were passing by and discussed her religion.

Her parents were in the seats behind us and she translated for them. They said they admired my bravery to explore Taiwan alone. In Taipei, they got off at a different stop, but Amy's father spoke to the bus driver, telling him to make sure I got off at the right stop. The driver turned in my direction, said a loud and exaggerated "No problem!" in English, and laughed. Amy then handed me her ice tea, her mother's recipe. I was so amazed at her generosity. In NY, her kind of behavior would've had me reaching for my pepper spray, or a pen to stick in her eye. Since I'm a bit more genteel outside of my surroundings, I realized this kind of friendliness actually exists. In the sea of goodbyes to and from Amy and her parents, I forgot to ask for her e-mail address. To this day, I am disappointed at this loss.

Riding high from my trip to Yehliu and the friendly encounter I had, I decided to attempt a visit to the Maokong tea plantation. To my dismay, the gondolas to get there weren't operating, breaking down the week before in the typhoons.
Okay, I have a confession to make. Looking for the gondolas, I spotted a Ponderosa steak house. I know, trashy, but trashy good! Elated at such a discovery, I simply couldn't wait to eat there. I hadn't had a decent full sized meal since I arrived back in Taipei. You would've thought it was Peter Luger's by the way I was salivating. It was the same set up as in the US but everything had that different taste to it, even the butter had an odd flavor. The meal was pretty disappointing, but filling.

My next stop was the area of Shilin to see the night market. I preferred the ShiDa night market to this one. Shilin was mostly food oriented, but the main strip was glitzy. I was dismayed at seeing so many pet stores. For a country with such a large stray population, it was uneasy seeing so many puppies and kittens for sale. I also suspect given the sheer amount of stores lining the street that they came from mills. Quickly bored of Shilin I took the MRT to the Xinbeitou stop to visit the Beitou hot springs.

Thankfully, I packed my swimsuit in my tote bag, because by the day's end, I needed a dip in the hot springs. Taiwan is famous for its hot springs, and many people here enjoy taking the cure in the various springs that dot the country. Taipei has a few with Beitou being a popular choice for tourists. It was easy to find but time consuming to get to. This is because it's on an annex off the Danshui line of the MRT. After a bit of anxiety about protocol (where to change, where to store my belongings, etc.), I was able to have a relaxing time.

One thing not to do is immerse your head, like I did, and burn your eyes from the salty water. The sign out front informs visitors not to stay too long, for health reasons. I realized this was true because as soothing as the springs are, staying too long does make you start to feel sick. I did two hot dips and two cold, making sure to alternate between hot and cold. This excursion to the springs set me back only a few US dollars. The most I paid was for the flimsy towel they sell you at the entrance.

Back at the hostel, I packed for the flight the next day and headed back to the ShiDa night market. At this point, I had visited almost every single night I had been there. I loved walking that neighborhood with it's alleyways and narrow streets revealing the surprise of the night market ahead. I also fed a stray cat, feeling like I did my good deed, and called it a night.

Asia Trip - Day 6

2008-10-26T14:47:00.021-04:00

Friday, 10/10 -

Today was my excursion to Jiufen (or Chiufen). I had a late start due to the temperamental washing machine I had issues with in the morning. Or rather, the washing machine had issues. Considering everything had to be air dried, and it was awfully humid outside, I wanted to get my wash out to dry in case it needed extra time. That said, I finally got out and questioned whether I had both the time, courage, and the stamina to attempt such a journey to this town.

Getting the tickets for the train to Keelung was pain free. Everyone was helpful despite the language barrier. Thankfully, thumbs up, winks, and plenty of smiles were the norm here, so I wasn't causing any cultural misunderstandings. The moment the train arrived in Keelung, it began to pour buckets of rain. I'm talking tropical storm kind of downpour. I managed to find my way to the bus to Jiufen, which was a bit of a lip biting experience, but I managed. I also had a really good book from the tourism board that showed the destination and directions in both English and Mandarin. That way, I could point to the page and people would know where I wanted to be.

Frightened that I would not know which stop to get off on, I turned around and was so happy to see a fellow Westerner named Steve. We engaged in conversation and I discovered he was living in Taiwan as an English language teacher. First off, it was nice to talk to someone from the US, second it was nice to talk to someone who was incredibly friendly and helpful, and it didn't hurt that we were going to the same location. So, if we didn't reach the correct stop, I knew I had a sympathetic shoulder to cry on! That wasn't needed however, because Jiufen was a major stop on the route and someone reminded us when to get off.

Jiufen was once a thriving Japanese mining town. Perched up in the hills, like my experience with the Peak in Hong Kong, the bus twists and turns skyward to reach it. The main draws are the stunning views and the tea houses that dot the area. These aren't quick stop in places to refresh yourself, but establishments where you sit and relax for hours on end while taking in the magnificent views. I'm antsy by nature, so I ended up walking around and stopping in a few tea houses along the way. Jiufen will also be the place where I became acquainted with squat toilets. These are not third world dirt holes, but well kept toilets that happen to be in the ground. Let's just say, it was an experience that I wasn't used to, and not going miss anytime soon.

One of the tea houses I visited, Old Town, was the most English friendly. I kept wondering why every place I stopped into questioned first whether I wanted milky tea. That is, until I remembered M telling me that this type is more preferred by Westerners. I did end up indulging in some at Babka, another tea house, and M was right; I did prefer this to the other teas I previously tried. I also tried the Taiwanese version of an Americanized pizza, which I picked at. When I wasn't in tea houses, I walked up and down the old streets, permitting myself to get lost in the maze. Jiufen is small enough to allow this. Wufan tunnel, an old mine, was cool and I didn't realize I was in front of the most iconic spot in town until I turned to see tons of people snapping photos. Apparently, this spot, the narrow stairs festooned with several red lanterns, was featured prominently in a famous movie, and the image is used in all tourism promotions.

Night was falling and I knew I had to get back to Taipei. I seem to have decided to leave around the same time as almost everyone else and since it was Taiwan National Day, a holiday, there were tons of people waiting for the bus. The line to get back to Keelung was unbelievably long. There were few buses, so it had to pick up and then drop off at the bottom before coming back up to accept more passengers. Of course, as in these situations, it began to pour buckets again. I stood out there about an hour, moving at a snails pace, before it was my turn to board the bus back to Keelung and catch my train for Taipei.

Asia Trip - Day 5

2008-10-24T21:28:00.009-04:00

Thursday, 10/9 -

Thursday morning, I headed back out to the airport to board the plane back to Taiwan. To my surprise, and without my knowledge, they upgraded me to first class. You can imagine my reaction when I automatically turned right to head towards the economy section and couldn't find my seat. So roomy and comfy. I sat in amazement throughout the 1 1/2 hour flight.

Back to TPE and on the bus to Taipei. This route was getting tiresome by now, but this time, we passed by rice paddies and people in stereotypical dress working the fields. It was a classic National Geographic people watch moment and odd against the industrial backdrop of a highway and tons of construction going on around them.

I decided to "splurge" as I took a taxi to the new hostel I would be staying at. Considering all the shopping I had done in Hong Kong, my shoulders weren't ready to handle the new weight of my luggage. I say splurge because normally, I would rely on public transportation to lug my belongings around. Considering the exchange rate, I knew I could manage the costs. 120NTD was about 3USD so that wasn't exactly breaking the bank. I settled into the hostel immediately where I was shown my own room and the facilities. This was by far, the BEST hostel I think I have ever stayed at. The people were fantastic and besides a temperamental washing machine, everything went smooth. Since I had so much trouble finding breakfast the past four days, I decided to purchase some oatmeal, milk, and fruit at the supermarket nearby to last me the length of my stay. The hostel was in a neighborhood called ShiDa, and it's the stomping grounds of Taiwan's university crowd. I was bound by academic obligations I couldn't get out of, so I spent Thursday afternoon finishing up some school work.

That night, I explored ShiDa night market. First off, I would like to explain that I did not like any of the food in both countries I visited, unless it was Western fare. This is not a reflection on the countries themselves, but purely on me. I consider General Tso's chicken ("I'll pay more for white meat, please") the most exotic meal I think I've eaten in my life. I'm not a foodie, nor am I food adventurous. I'm a stickler for specific consistencies and textures and if it goes slightly askew, I will spit everything out immediately. I'm the one that will tell your grandmother I don't want to try her famous *insert meal here* because it includes an item I refuse to eat.

Back to ShiDa. This was by far my favorite night market of the handful I had visited in Taiwan. Smaller, younger, hip, and filled with college students, I felt at place, even though I probably graduated the year they were all born. This market was different because you had a mix of people selling schlocky jewelry in suitcases opened on the side of the street, tables of cheap clothing laying out to rummage through, and funky boutiques offering more expensive designer clothing. I stumbled upon a boutique with a jewelry maker outside churning out really nice pieces for sale. I chose a nice pair of funky earrings and ended up going back several times to purchase more. It was humorous to know that I had literally bought something "Made in Taiwan".

The Taiwanese love to snack and night markets are the place where they can enjoy this pastime. There aren't really meals for sale here, but tons of booths offering little things to munch on. Given my aversion to the food, I chose things such as fruit, Bubble tea, and ice cream. Nothing substantial in the end, but filling my belly just the same. I noticed the sign at the ice cream shop assuring customers, in English, that they don't import milk from China; the melamine scare was in full force.

Asia Trip - Day 4

2008-10-23T06:37:00.013-04:00

Wednesday, 10/8 -

My second day of Hong Kong was just as exciting and exhausting as the first day. What with the hills and and constantly losing my bearings, by nightfall, I was looking forward to the less frenetic pace of Taiwan again. I had tooled with the idea of doing a half day in Macao, to see the ruins. However, darting around for last minute looksies quickly used up my time, throwing any notions of an attempt at visiting another country (even if for a few exhilarating hours) aside.

Some of the things I saw my second day are edible bird's nests. How anyone eats this stuff is beyond my understanding. I try to be culturally sensitive, but this one boggles the mind. Man Mo Temple was cool but the incense coils burning throughout the place really did my lungs (and my eyes) in. Cat Street was a disappointment and the Mid-Levels area with its escalator system, was a cool neighborhood to walk around in.

Back on Kowloon side, looking for the Jade Market was tiresome. This included walking several blocks before realizing I was going in the wrong direction, getting on a bus, missing the stop, and thinking that it would only be a few more blocks past it that it would stop. Wrong! Instead, it went further to the bus depot and I had to wait awhile before it would restart it's route again. By the time I found the place, and saw what was actually for sale, I wasn't interested in the least.

My previous assumptions of the Jade Market were that there would be several purveyors selling unique pieces and I would hem and haw over which seller to choose. Not so in this case where each and every both sold almost identical pieces of beaded bracelets where you could easily see where it was tied off and cut. Plus the hard desperate sell got to me in my exhaustion. Yawn. All that time for this? Anyway, the benefit to this excursion, and I believe everything happens for a reason, was that I was now in a very non-Western part of Kowloon. We're talking I got some serious stares as to why I would be that neighborhood. I stumbled upon a market on Reclamation St, found a supermarket in which to peruse for some goodies, and most importantly, discovered another cool temple. Not too shabby.

The shopping here is amazing. There are several mall type stores which are really just rabbit warrens of tiny shops selling super cheap clothing. I had heard of this before from the girls at work, but seeing is believing. I left Hong Kong with a heavy suitcase a credit card without a dent in it. For once, I felt I had benefited from a shop till you drop excursion!

Asia Trip - Day 3

2008-10-21T23:12:00.008-04:00

Tuesday, 10/7 -

Hong Kong was wild, and I'm glad to have considered a side trip there. For a little over $200 in airfare, it was cheap and well worth it. An exhilarating mix of East and West, the city was easy to manage but I totally lost my bearings a lot. This included finding my hotel.

Today was a pavement pounding day. My first stop was the bird garden. I'm petrified of birds and pretty much despise them, but this was a cool place to walk through. I followed a basic walking tour from my guide book which brought me through the flower market then on through the goldfish market. After a bit of souvenir shopping in Tsim Sha Tsui, and traveling from Kowloon (where my hotel was) to Hong Kong Island on the famous Star Ferry, I walked around the city taking as much as possible. What I didn't know until much later in the day, that it was a holiday on Tuesday. This explains why the area under the HSBC building and the street nearby was crowded with Filipino women. I was told that the city shuts down certain areas so that they can come together on holidays to commiserate among their brethren. Apparently, tons of women from the Philippines come to Hong Kong to work as maids.

The peak tram is a must do, but the lines to come back down were insane, so I grabbed the number 15 bus to get back down to the city. This is what I would recommend to anyone who does this trip, go up on the tram, come down on the bus. The bus experience is not to be missed because it spirals down the winding hills at break neck speed. I had the luck (or misfortune) to snag the top front left side of a double decker. When the bus turned the sharp corners, branches would slam into the window next to me. How there are any more branches hanging down from this route, I don't know. The views are just as stunning going down, if not better. Make sure you sit on the left side though.

I made it back to Kowloon in time for the Harbor Light Show. It's kind of tacky but a must see. Prior to the show, the buildings "talk" to each other before dazzling the audience with the laser lights and orchestra accompaniment.

At this point, I was in the mood for Western food and resigned myself to Pizza Express, a restaurant type pizza place I had been to before in England before calling it a night.

Asia Trip - Day 2

2008-10-20T18:29:00.013-04:00

Monday, 10/6 -

I couldn't arrange departure for Hong Kong on the Sunday I arrived. This kind of sucked because it was a wonky way to break up the trip. I figured I would use the morning and afternoon to visit the National Palace Museum. First, I looked for breakfast, but had to settle for McDonald's (blech!). There is so much shopping in Taipei, but the pickings were slim in the area I was staying. Mostly junky Forever 21-ish clothes. Since I'm not into gold lame shoes and white plastic hoop earrings, there was nothing really of interest to me. I did pop into a store after seeing something I liked on the mannequin from outside, and ended up buying a nice sweater. Next, it was on to the National Palace Museum.

The National Palace Museum is really a miracle in the making. Most of the artifacts come from China and were carried into Taiwan for safety during the Chinese Civil War. When China turned communist, Taiwan kept the items. It's an easy museum to navigate, and the exhibits are quite small compared to the Met, considering you are only seeing a very small percentage of what they have in their possession. My favorite exhibit focused on the curios. I didn't care for the print room. I saw the jadeite cabbage and the meat shaped stone made from jasper; both items are supposed to be highlights of the museum.

A curious thing happened to me here. I stumbled upon a stamping station, which delighted me to no end. I looked up, startled, to see a young Japanese man who asked me where I was from. I told him and he immediately explained that he was from Japan and was learning English. The thing is, his English was terrible, but I totally understood his dilemma. The poor lamb is busting ass learning another language and works up the nerve to finally try it out on an native English speaker, only to realize right then and there that it's not up to snuff. I felt for him and tried my best to communicate, asking the most basic questions and giving the most basic answers, but it was futile. He went on his way and I was relieved to rid of the embarrassment between us two.

The gift shop was nothing to write home about. I like to collect a postcard or two of the exhibits I enjoy, and NPM doesn't really "do" this in terms of souvenirs. I chose a magnet and called it a day. I would have to retrieve my luggage back at the hostel and head off to Hong Kong.

My flight to Hong Kong was for 7pm. The journey went off without a hitch. After customs and traveling to my destination, I didn't arrive at my hotel on Kowloon side until about 11pm.

Asia Trip - Day 1

2008-10-13T14:05:00.037-04:00

I had either no internet access or I was so tired I didn't have time to post. Therefore, the dates are off. For the purposes of blogging, I will name my posts after each day of my trip.

Sunday, 10/5 -

I've arrived! In one piece I might had. The plane ride wasn't fun, and was delayed an 1 1/2 hours in Anchorage, Alaska while fueling up. This wouldn't have been so bad if we weren't on the plane when the problem happened and inside the terminal where we had just been. I don't know the specifics because the sound system wasn't properly working in the back of the plane. And no, I couldn't see Russia from Alaska!

Still, I had a window seat, which was more than I could have asked for. It sure as heck wasn't first class sleeper seats, but better than the dreaded middle seat. I was able to stretch for long periods of time behind one of the galleys in the back of the plane with others. This helped lessen the toll on my body.

My co-worker's friend, M, met me at the airport and would be my guide for the day. I don't know how I could ever thank him, but he was a godsend in a city that although looked as if I could manage it, was still a bit trying for someone who has absolutely zero knowledge of Mandarin.

I needed a Silkwood scrub down after being in the air so long. Afterwards, we stopped at Tea Ren, which is probably like the Starbucks of Taiwan for tea, and ordered a bubble tea. I discovered that bubble tea originates from Taiwan and it appeared to be the drink of choice there from what I saw in my travels. Also, all sales receipts are part of the national lottery system, so they each have lottery numbers on them.

M taught me the MRT system, which is hands down, the BEST subway system I've ridden so far. Clean, functional, and easy to manage; I was impressed with the clearly numbered marked exits that you don't seem to see in other cities. In Taipei, any directions given to you from the MRT will include the exit number so you can orientate yourself once you're outside.

We first explored the area immediately around Taipei 101. Currently, this is the tallest building in the world and will be beat soon, if it hasn't already. The area it's located in is the more posh and Westernized district of the city. The mall beneath the building includes stores such as Vivienne Westwood, Coach, etc. You get the picture. This area was also where I saw the most Westerners in my travels there. We certainly stuck out like sore thumbs and quietly acknowledged each other. I counted only two people of African descent here. I know that one was definitely an American. It reminded me of footage from a heavy metal concert where you see that one single black person.

Afterwards, M took me to Daan Park. Right before we entered, we passed a group of animal supporters who were urging everyone to please adopt a puppy or kitten. I was devastated when they pleaded with me, in English no less, to please, please, please take one home. Even trying to place a puppy in my arms. I was heartbroken. M explained that Taiwan has an overpopulation problem and many animals run wild all over the city as there is really no animal control agencies.

I saw this later on with random dogs walking around, ribs and spines showing through mangy fur. Including one woman who called one of them over to give the poor dog the leftovers from her meal. Daan Park was nice and the first time I had ever seen authentic bamboo trees growing that weren't already attached to furniture from Pier 1. It was here where I was introduced to the joys of public toilets, which were…um…different.

Another official touristy stop was at Longshan Temple. Luckily for me, a procession was going on which enabled me to see people pray and offer up food and indulgences to the souls of their departed loved ones. M handed me several incense sticks and I followed, copying the bowing and throwing of sticks into burning cauldrons. Like any church, there was an opportunity to purchase religious doodads. I chose a few lucky charms and M showed me how to have them blessed. You hold them over the burning pots and circle them around three times.

The temple is near Snake Alley where there are also a proliferation of foot massage parlors. I felt sorry for the snakes being offered up for meals, especially since the pitch was akin to an auctioneer's schpeal. I learned later that the huge white display snake has been there quite some time, is fed often, and is a happy fat snake. At one foot massage store, M bargained us a few minutes of back and neck massage in addition to getting our feet and legs rubbed. The cost for 40 minutes of bliss? Ten US dollars!

It was here I learned somewhat the politics of skin color. M had mentioned skin color sporadically throughout our conversations, but I took it as he lived in a fairly homogeneous country and was curious of the different races and ethnicities in my city. He was chatting to the women as we sat side by side, getting our massages from them. He translated that they said they were jealous of my pale skin, which never tans in the sun. In protest, I took off my wristwatch to show off the pithy tan line I had to prove that I do. This only produced giggles from them and I realized I was fighting a losing battle. No matter what darker color I showed them on my body, I was still white as a ghost and living up to an image they coveted.

In the pre-trip research, I was excited to learn about all of the opportunities to acquire cheap electronics. M brought me to this multi-level building that was a labyrinth of tiny stores selling all sorts of mobile phones and computer components. My preference for an Mp3 with WiFi was met with no luck. The dazzle of this electronics warehouse quickly turned to confusion, and a headache, as I went from store to store trying to think of something else to buy instead. I liken the experience to being in the slot machine section of a casino. There is so much noise, crazy lights, and the crowds are insane. I left feeling on edge and desperately wanted to call it a night.

M left me at the hostel and I now had to fend for myself. However, I was so grateful for his help and felt confident I would be able to navigate this strange and exotic city on my own. I had booked the double room to myself, which was comfortable, and I slept like a baby.

I would only have a portion of the next day in Taipei before I flew on to Hong Kong for a short break.

I'm Off To Taiwan...

2008-10-03T19:34:00.006-04:00

And I'm so NOT looking forward to the plane ride.

I'll be twelve hours ahead of NYC, and I don't know how my body will handle it. The most I've had to endure was six.

I'm trying to do the plane ride naturally, no Tylenol PM, no alcohol and no caffeine. I even went so far as to try the anti-jet lag diet my doctor suggested for me. It wasn't a major departure from what I was used to, no starving or anything drastic like that, but I had to abstain from caffeine all day, except between the hours of 3-5pm. Keeping this up for a mere four days was hell enough, and I'll be disappointed if this diet doesn't work!

Wish me luck.

Hong Kong, Here I Come!

2008-09-25T09:49:00.034-04:00

I've booked both the hotel and flight for my jaunt from Taipei to Hong Kong.

I almost (but didn't) ended up at the infamous Chung King Mansions. Cutting it so close, I was sure one of the gazillion hotels in that complex would end up being my only choice. This could have been quite the experience, or not. Either way, right now, I'm secure with my choice of the Dragon Hostel. I'm seeing great reviews on different sites. It's not really a hostel in the sense that you would know, the bunk beds with strangers experience and all that, but a teeny tiny totally no frills hotel room with it's own bathroom. Probably about the size of postage stamp. As with most of these types of hostels in Hong Kong, there is really no area to socialize, and no breakfast. I'm a big breakfast girl so I will have to find something nearby.

I chose Hong Kong as a destination probably because I work in a business that deals with the country on a day to day basis. Because of this, it just seemed to make sense. Plus, that equal marriage of East and West is appealing. Besides, who knows if or when I'll ever get to that side of the world again. My uncle had visited the Philippines and expressed his regret at not doing a quick side trip to a nearby country, and that really stuck with me. So, I took his advice and will forever be grateful that I did.

The countdown begins...

Getting Real

2008-09-22T23:52:00.008-04:00

Taking a break from my lunch, I headed over the the Taiwanese embassy to get brochures and maps for my upcoming trip. I forgot that the UN was having a big brouhaha, so was confused at first why I wasn't allowed up to the travel and tourism division of the embassy. Instead, someone came downstairs to the lobby and asked me what I was interested in. I specified brochures and maps, and they headed back up to retrieve the information for me and bring it down.

What they provided was probably more informative and detailed than the Lonely Planet book I bought. The maps are out of this world. Something the LP book is seriously lacking, and which I fretted the most over. For the first time, I felt in the loop about the city of Taipei. Even my co-worker, a native of Taiwan, who has been helping me tremendously with all this, was shocked at the breadth of information provided.

Now, it feels a bit more real. Aside from the prolonged flight each way, which still gives me hesitation, I'm really feeling more and more prepared. Like I can now get excited at what's ahead.

3.74

2008-09-19T10:49:00.010-04:00

And that's the GPA I will graduate with. Woot!! With honors. As a member of Phi Theta Kappa. Yesterday, my mother and I headed up to Madison Square Garden to participate in my previous college's graduation ceremonies. Wearing colors that were supposed to be red and gray, but resembled rust and silver, I received my Associates in Art. My major was Liberal Arts & Social Sciences, and it wasn't without thinking about the pain and anguish I had been through up until this milestone.

Originally, I wanted no part of the ceremonies. My heart and mind bitter at the rigmarole I went through dealing with the college administration. My feelings only gave way because my mother wanted so badly to watch her daughter graduate. My brother and I are the only grandchildren on my mother's side of the family to receive a degree. Telling someone my feelings about this, it was pointed out that I should go and view it for what it really was...an academic achievement. Not for what the administrative side of the school had done.

Still, I have another round to go before I can even think about obtaining my bachelors. But if I have come this far, I can only believe that day will come too.

Ireland - Day Five

2008-09-14T18:36:00.090-04:00

Just got back!

Last night, as planned, I went out some of my hostel mates. Had a faboo time. The disco nap on the bus back from Belfast did me a world of good so I could be in top form for going out. We hit a bar near to the hostel before stopping at a pub on the Quay near to the Temple Bar area.

The pub was packed and we were highly amused by the antics of one girl in particular, whom we nicknamed "pink shirt", and was dancing wildly and out of sync. Kind of like Elaine from Seinfeld, but sped up and the appearance of a seizure or two thrown in. We weren't out for too long, but enough. One of the girls turned me on to a great drink - cider with a shot of blackcurrant. We stumbled back and I clocked in under four hours of sleep but made sure to get up super early this morning to catch the bus back to the airport.

It was quite soothing really. Taking in the last of the city so early in the morning. I miss that feeling of being alone for few minutes in Dublin, before the hustle and bustle begins for the day. Thankfully, I didn't let time slip because the airport turned out to be so crowded. I had avoided doing an online check-in, which I ended up regretting because I ended up with possibly the worst seat on the plane! The middle seat in the last row of the plane. Having only four hours and needing some sleep was so difficult. I ended up throwing a blanket over my head to get some semblance of shut eye. Given that I was in the middle, there was no way I could curl up anywhere. It was a rough ride.

Naturally, I miss Dublin already. But I feel I did so much in the short time allowed there. I really moved around. I would definitely visit Ireland again. However, it would be a trip to focus on the western side of the isle. Getting back to NYC, it was depressing getting hit like a ton of bricks by the heat. Aside from the spurts of rain, Dublin had such perfect temperatures.

Ireland - Day Four

2008-09-14T18:36:00.089-04:00

Yesterday, was the day trip up to Belfast. I had always wanted to visit this city, but didn't know if or when I would ever get to go. Enter Paddywagon Tours. They offered a cheap one day trip package up there with stops in Drogheda and at Monasterboice. The buses are Kelly green with leprechauns emblazoned on them. Really obvious and bizarre. Unmissable, really.

I was able to catch a quick nap on the way to Drogheda, falling in and out of consciousness as the bus driver gave his spiel about the counties we were driving through and what we were going to see at our destination. Our first stop, St. Peter's Church, we were given about 15-20 minutes total to visit and see the remains of Oliver Plunkett. His head is the highlight and I was surprised that it's just out there in the sanctuary for everyone to see. If you regularly attend services at this church, you might possibly end up sitting in a pew that has a direct view of his relics, and his head! Too creepy.

Our next stop, outside of Drogheda, was Monasterboice monastery. The sun was out in full force. This was picture perfect considering there were lush green open fields surrounding the monastery. Our group was fairly small and we had the place to ourselves, making it out just as one of those mega tour buses pulled up.

We arrived in Belfast a half hour early. This worked in our favor because we now had more time to spend there. We arrived in the city centre and transferred over to the Black Cab tour, which took us to both the Shankhill and Falls Road areas of Belfast. What I saw will stay with me forever. Shankhill Road is the Protestant (or loyalist) section. Falls Road is the Catholic (or nationalist) section. The murals were fascinating, some of them very disturbing. Our tour stopped at the Peace Wall. It was amusing to be handed markers and crayons and told we could write on the wall.

We returned back to the centre with a few hours to kill. I had become chummy with some of the group so we headed to the Victoria Square Mall to see the city from the observation dome. Our group then split up and myself and another person walked over to the Crown Pub. On our way there, we passed a woman with who appeared to be her daughter. This kid was probably no older than six. Passing by them, the woman was scolding her, hissing "stop being a little wench!". We were flabbergasted. Because of time restrictions I ordered only tomato soup. As delicious as it was, I sorely regretted not getting the Irish stew that passed by me. The Crown is a historic Belfast pub and it's stunningly gorgeous inside. Across the street is the Europa Hotel, which has the distinction of being the most bombed hotel in Europe.

We had a little time to kill over by the pick up spot and listened to the symphony warm up for the BBC Proms that were taking place on the lawn of city hall. We ended up getting back to Dublin early, giving me time to eat at Beshoff's and get ready to go out.

My time in Belfast, though short, further enriched my trip to Ireland. It was quite the learning experience. Seeing some of the differences in partitioned country was eye opening for what little I saw.

Ireland - Day Three

2008-09-12T17:56:00.047-04:00

Today, I figured for the purposes of change of scenery, I would venture outside the city to check out the 'burbs. I rode the DART first to Howth, which is a sleepy seaside town, and walked around. The ride over was ruined by some stereotypical loud and large Americans, one of whom thought it necessary to read aloud to his entire group, word for word, from the tour book about Howth and continually butchering the pronunciation of Dun Laoghaire (pronounced Dun Leary). Annoyed, I ended up changing cars.

The trip to Howth was quite short for such a drastic change to a seaside scenery. The skies were quickly turning dark, and I wondered if I would be stuck in the rain the whole day. I walked the edge of the seashore on a raised stone wall walkway towards the lighthouse. Coming back, I decided to walk up the hill towards Howth Village. Then, the sun came shining through. I stumbled upon St. Mary's Abbey, which are ruins of an old church from the 12th century.

I hopped back on the DART to head towards Dun Laoghaire. I ended up falling asleep on the train, thankfully waking just two stops before I was to get off! If Howth was a sleepy seaside town, Dun Laoghaire was it's aggressive big sister. Also a seaside town, Dun Laoghaire is much more commercial and busy as it serves as an arriving and departing point for the ferry from Wales. An equal mix of retail and residential, it was in this town I spent the bulk of my time, walking around taking everything in, browsing the shops and small mom and pop stores.

A huge plus to the visit was the discovery of a frikkin' huge Tesco! I stocked up on the things I wasn't finding in Dublin. Much more cheaply I might add. I even snagged a couple of containers of Cadbury's Instant Hot Chocolate. This is the one item I can never find in the US.

I had also heard about the town called Killiney (pronounced Kil-Loiny). It's a more affluent town known for being the residence of Bono, Enya, and other Irish celebrities. I wasn't going there looking for them, mind you, but I wanted to see what the town was all about. What I got, however, was a different impression. Killiney turned out to be a bust and I stayed on what seemed to like an endless loop of a bus route trying to get back myself to Dun Laoghaire. My fellow bus patrons seemed to be mostly old people and school kids.

Once back in Dun Laoghaire, I decided to call it a day and hopped the bus back to Dublin. A long trek, it was refreshing knowing I would be back at my destination. This day exhausted me so. I managed to get a seat up top and in front and three raucous young girls sat next to me. They were screeching and swearing up a storm. I was shocked given the fact they were only about the age of ten and so disarming in their pastel and frilly track suits. They saw some mates outside and began banging on the window hoping to catch their attention before running off the bus to catch up. Relieved I was to be rid of the little brats.

In their place sat a trio of older school girls. When we all witnessed some unlucky soul running for the bus, but missing it, one of the girls relayed a story about her mother witnessing her missing the bus and informing her "never run after a bus...or a man".

Back in Dublin and hungry, I headed for the famous Leo Burdock's for fish n' chips. I have to say that for this trip, I lucked out with my restaurant choices, getting to eat at mostly all of the places I hand picked. With Burdock's, I wasn't disappointed. Walking towards Christ Church Cathedral, the bells began ringing to mark the 8 o'clock hour. It was so beautiful and moving, I momentarily forgot my surroundings.

Back to Leo's! After waiting in line outside, I ordered the usual (cod and chips). There are no places to sit so I curbed it, digging in to my delicious meal. I'm not too keen on Irish chips for some reason, but these were good. Halfway through, it began to rain lightly. I didn't care and just sat there finishing up and relishing the moment. Thankfully, I had Wet Wipes on me, or else the situation would've been really dire.

Getting back to my room at the hostel, I soon realized I wasn't alone. A group of women from England (West Midlands) on a girl's weekend had taken up residence, bringing with them alcohol and spreading out their things to the point that it looked like a hardworking beauty salon. They were so friendly and even invited me out. I declined because I would have to get up early the next day for Belfast, but confirmed that I would indeed go out with them the next night.

Ireland - Day Two

2008-09-12T17:55:00.023-04:00

Got a somewhat later start yesterday. This was due to what amounted to the kiss of death for someone suffering their first day of jet lag - I took an evening nap. After eating dinner, I came back to the hostel to put my things down. I laid across the bed and that was it. I was awoken by the sound of someone in the room, a new hostel guest. I got myself together, but it was too late to really do anything since Dublin closes up shop so much earlier. So, I walked around the city a bit, checking things out. Still, when I got back to the hostel, I couldn't get to sleep until really late and that screwed me for the next day.

However, for day two, it didn't stop me from getting out and seeing it all. Instead of doing too much walking, which always seems to do me in, I decided to rely a lot on the buses to stave off the exhaustion that occurs from walking everywhere. This new plan worked and I found I had more energy at night. I took advantage of the Hop On Hop Off bus that was part of my super saver ticket. Starting from the beginning, it was a great way to see certain things quickly that walking would only take up too much time doing. I got off at the Kilmainham Gaol (Jail) stop because this was one of the attractions I really, really wanted to visit. I wasn't disappointed. It turned out to be one of the highlights of my trip.

Afterwards, I grabbed the HOHO bus back to the city centre. I hoofed it over to Trinity College to see the Book of Kells and the Long Room. I was more impressed with the Long Room. Saw the Molly Malone statue, aptly nicknamed "the tart with the cart". Doing research about places to eat, I had read about a little cafe called Queen of Tarts that I wanted to try. It turned out to be exactly what I needed for dinner. Since the hostel served a full Irish breakfast, and I got a late start, I was full for the entire day and only needed a light dinner.

I decided, last minute, that I really did want to visit the Guinness Storehouse. The HOHO bus had stopped there prior to the Kilmainham stop and I began to feel that this was something I shouldn't miss. I'm not a beer drinker and I can't stand stout. Having visited both Amsterdam and Copenhagen, I could have cared less to visit the Heineken and Carlsberg breweries. But, there was something about Guinness which made me rethink my position about visiting a brewery. It turned out to be a cool experience and the complimentary pint you get up top in the Sky Bar was actually quite smooth and creamy. I had always heard the cliche about Guinness tasting better in Ireland, and now, I get to be part of the choir who agrees - even though I don't drink the stuff. The views of Dublin from the top of the Sky Bar are fantastic!

For the rest of the day, I centered my travels around the Grafton Street area, and walking a bit through St. Stephen's Green. I tried a Butler's hot chocolate but was more impressed with the service I recieved than the actual drink. It was so lukewarm, I ended up throwing most of it out. At night, I walked around the Temple Bar section before calling it a night.

Ireland - Day One

2008-09-10T13:13:00.032-04:00

Glasnevin Cemetery was utterly fantastic!! I grabbed the #40 bus there and got to sit up top in the front row. I had read that the tour was free, but became a bit concerned when I saw that there would be an 8 euro charge. I was assured that today it would be free. Woosh! Such a feeling of relief.

Prior to the tour, I used the bathroom, but faced a quandary afterwards when I soaped up my hands, turned on the water, and nothing came out of the faucets! Walking into the flower shop with soapy hands, the clerk was sympathetic but couldn't do anything. She explained the waterworks had just flooded and they had to shut the water off. I searched for, and found, a huge puddle in the cemetery to dip my hands in to finish washing up. I must've looked silly, but desperate acts call for desperate measures.. This was a dire situation!

There were only a few of us for the tour, our guide looked like what you would expect a person of history to look like - a bit disheveled but a fountain of knowledge. He showed us around and gave us a run down of the cemetery's beginnings and many of the famous people buried there. We were brought into the tomb of Daniel O'Connell and also shown the tiny room which contains the resting area of his descendants. The thing is, they aren't entombed. Instead, their coffins are stacked on top of each other creating an unsettling sight. This was a bit too freaky for us, especially since we were only a few feet from the coffins, and learning right then and there that since most of the older coffins in the cemetery are lead lined, they still contain the diseases of the day. So, say for instance, a coffin breaks and the person inside had perished from cholera, the preserved disease will now enter the air.

Still, it was all too fascinating for words. What was especially cool were the thousands of Celtic crosses throughout the cemetery. Most of them very ornate. Many are in need of repair and in today's dollars, the work needed to restore them would go into the tens of thousands. Some of them into the hundreds of thousands. Politics also plays in important role because of the sectarian groups associated with the many people buried there. You see this in the laying of flowers and in the epitaphs. The military does do a sweep of the cemetery to make sure there is no sectarian vandalism. Glasnevin doesn't get funding from the government for upkeep, which explains the dire state of some of the gravestones. However, some of the graves are tended to by certain political sectarian groups, but only for their own. Also fascinating was seeing the final resting place of the many who shaped Irish history.

Afterwards, I headed back to the city center and putzed around browsing some of the shops. The exchange rate is still terrible so any shopping sprees are out of the question. I may sashay into Penney's (Primark) for some cheap new threads though. I headed to the Epicurean Food Hall, which is a big food court type place. I had read about The Pie Kitchen and was interested in ordering the root vegetable and cheddar pie. It turned out to be delicious, but my taste buds had to get used to food that wasn't laced with some sort of sugar or preservative, like most things are in the US. As satisfied as I was, I couldn't resist ordering the apple crumble dessert. When the counter woman came over with the double cream, I thought I'd died and gone to heaven. I left stuffed for the entire night. This time, thankfully, the tea was drinkable.

I've Landed in Dublin

2008-09-10T13:08:00.024-04:00

The flight was uneventful. In addition to picking a choice seat online, I managed only a carry-on for the trip over. Yeah! We even got in early. Forget about any halfway decent sleep on the plane, which wasn't such a surprise. It would have been nice to get at least three or more hours. But that wasn't possible. The meal was decent. I ordered the beef dish. I sat next to an older cougar-ish woman with bleach blonde hair who talked my ear off a bit prior to landing, but she was at least entertaining and gave me some good tips. Her outfit was a trip; very busy patterns with bare tanned legs and open toed shoes. Her headband even matched the dress. Tons of clunky jewelry. She was originally from Ireland, but had lived in the US for decades, so there was no trace of an Irish accent. Bless her heart.

The airport was so ghetto and confusing for such an international destination. The customs room was tiny and unorganized. Getting down to the arrivals room, I immediately purchased the three day saver for 25 euros. This pass would give me free transportation to and around the city plus it's environs, in addition to use of the hop on hop off bus for the entire duration of the ticket. It was sunny when I stepped outside, but quickly turned to dark skies and light rain once I got on the Airlink bus to get into the city.

My first impressions? Immediately outside of the airport you are met with lush farmland, which gives way to industry. Finally, entering Dublin, it reminded me of a less busy London.

The Airlink bus stopped on O'Connell Street right near the GPO. Finding the hostel was fairly easy, once I got my street bearings. The room wasn't ready, so I put my suitcase in the left luggage room. This kinda sucked, because it didn't give me a chance to settle in and freshen up before hitting the city. Since breakfast was over, I found a place around the corner and ordered an egg and chip dish with tea. The tea was gross and had a bit of a bleachy taste to it. Blech! I hope this isn't going to be an ongoing thing here in Ireland.

Heading out to Glasnevin Cemetery shortly. Every Wednesday is a free tour.

Off to the Emerald Isle

2008-09-09T11:06:00.008-04:00

And for the first time, I'm attempting carry-on for the flight there. Coming back is another matter all together. Looking at the suitcase, I swear it will be a miracle if I'm not flagged and forced to check it in. Speaking of check-in, thankfully, I went online and printed the boarding pass out. I even managed to snag a good seat.

The plane leaves (fingers crossed!) at 9:45pm, and lands tomorrow morning at about 9:30am. To be totally honest, I still don't have a lot of things mapped out. I have a good idea of what I want to do, but no firm itinerary. I'll be fine. Once my feet hit the ground and the vibe hits me full force, I'll get in gear and breeze through the city.

Tai-What?!

2008-09-03T12:43:00.007-04:00

Some of you know, some you don't. In one month, I'm heading all the way to Taipei, Taiwan!

If you recall, awhile back, I went to the NY Times Travel Show and entered my name in all those sweepstakes entry boxes. Well, one of them took and I won a "free" flight to Taiwan. I just had to pay the taxes. Taiwan is a country that previously, I had absolutely no desire to visit. Since non reputable companies use the travel show as a guise to pass off notorious timeshare scams as huge wins, I was naturally quite skeptical when I got the news. After a bit of research, a confirmation that this was in fact legit, the peace of mind flowed, and I began the preparations. It was a disappointment to discover that the prize was for one plane ticket only. Not that I'm upset. It just would have been better if I could've brought along another person with me for such a journey.

My response to the win was - Taiwan?!?! Who goes there? What on earth does one do whilst there?

The country has launched a tourism initiative, and the booth at the show was part of it. Searching my head, I actually do remember being at the booth. I think that's only because in addition to slipping the entry form into the box, I was allowed to spin a wheel and win a "prize". I chose a writing pad because that was the only thing of interest they were giving out.

Now. To plan this trip. To my disappointment, there aren't really many tourism books on this country, which makes it all the more difficult to plan something for a country I know hardly anything about. The bulk of the attention going instead to her other Asian sisters. I'm having some luck with a few travel sites, which has helped me immensely. It's just a matter of really sitting down with the information and sussing out an itinerary. The flight. What can I say? The flight will be killer. 18 hours NONSTOP!! I predict there will be crying after 8 hours. I'm not comfortable with taking them, but maybe my doctor will be sympathetic and prescribe me Ambien.

So far, I have a tentative itinerary that focuses mainly on the capital of Taipei with side trips to the countryside. There is also a plan in place to visit Hong Kong as one of these side trips. That is, only if I can find a decently priced flight. Right now, it's all a big "we'll see". Am I excited? Yes. A little unsure and apprehensive? Yes. Scared? Maybe. Ungrateful for such an incredible win? Not on your life.

Hot springs, night markets, Snake Alley, and Taipei 101. I'm building on a mystery.

Starting it All Over Again in Two Weeks

2008-09-03T12:23:00.014-04:00

Whew! Summer classes are done. The university hasn't entered the grades yet, but I know I did pretty good. Judging from the grades of all the essays I turned in, I'm confident I received an A in the intercultural communications class, but not sure what I received for the Internet essentials course. Grades should be posted soon to confirm or deny the above.

I'm not going to lie, it was difficult, especially when it came to forcing myself to dedicate the time and energy. I worry because I'll be attempting three classes next semester. That said, I have to do this. There is no other way around it all. Getting my degree is not a choice, but a necessity.

Obama-Biden

2008-08-23T11:38:00.016-04:00

Well, it looks like I was clearly wrong from the beginning. Not surprised there! I originally (and incorrectly) predicted that Biden or Richardson would be the democratic hopeful for president this year. Now, with today's news, knowing that at least one of them will be on the ticket, I'm a little more confident about rooting for Obama. Still, I would have liked to see a Clinton-Biden ticket, or Clinton-Richardson, but this will certainly do.

I can't wait to see who McCain picks as a running mate. So far, the choices the media has as possibilities would be pure suicide, should he go with them.

We need change. And I firmly believe that it cannot come from another Republican administration. In fact, in my lifetime, I don't recall any positive outcome from having that lot in the executive office.

The Eire That I Need

2008-08-10T19:19:00.005-04:00

Needing to close out an expiring travel rewards program, I decided to use the points towards a flight to...Dublin, Ireland! I'll be there for five days in exactly one month.

I don't know what took me so long to get to Ireland. I guess I was probably waiting to conquer it on a much bigger 'round-the-country trip that never seemed to transpire and which I don't exactly foresee getting 'round to for some years now.

Since I have a heavy travel schedule for October and November, plus three classes next semester, I needed to choose a place which would afford me some peace and ease of travel before all the chaos begins. My gut said London, only because of my familiarity with the place, but Dublin seemed more of a perfect fit. Plus, a different change of scenery, and another stamp in my passport. That I begin my Irish history class the day after I return, seems even more fitting.

To be honest, aside from a very basic itinerary, not much research has been done for this trip. If you can believe it. I am planning a guided tour for a day trip up to Belfast, Northern Ireland, but that's really the extent of it. I'll hit the major attractions and take advantage of as much of the city as possible, without doing my head in. One thing I'm totally looking forward to is the mass consumption of Irish cuisine - hearty stews, meaty pies, fish n'chips - I'll be in heaven! To keep costs down, I'm hosteling it. I did however, choose a highly rated hostel which is super close to everything and offers an all-you-can-eat Irish breakfast each morning.

Again, I'll try to report the day's events as they happen. Understandably, I can't make any promises. That's all in the hands of the Internet(s) gods.

8-8-8 A Day Not In Infamy

2008-08-08T17:28:00.015-04:00

Today is supposed to be one of the luckiest days of the year. That is, according to the Chinese. For me, it was spent lamenting and getting anxious that nothing of permanent note was occurring for little old me. By permanent, I mean marriage, delivery of a baby, or anything else that would seal the deal, so to say, about the luckiness of this day.

I'm usually not reduced to hokum, except when it comes to numbers. Having numerical OCD doesn't help matters much. Especially when it's of the symmetrical variety. So, a day such as today gets me hopped up with anticipation of what might occur. Strange, I know.

Today, I did however, take advantage of a summer half-day Friday to stop into my doctor's office and either request an on-the-spot vaccination, or make an appointment for one. It was suggested that for the trip to Russia, I should get a combination diphtheria-tetanus shot. Turns out, they could take me and administer the vaccination. In addition, I was given full blood and urine tests and another appointment to return for possibly more vaccinations. Not that I was upset. It was good to get all of it out of the way. Regardless, my right arm should be sore for about a week or so.

To sum it up, 8-8-8 pretty much went bust for me, and was spent removing various fluids from my body in hopes that I will be healthy for 9-9-9, and beyond.

Reaching The Halfway Mark

2008-08-04T15:24:00.028-04:00

So far, I've been acclimating myself into the two classes I'm currently taking this summer session with the new school.

One is the web essentials course (required), which is very interactive and the most time consuming so far. The other is the intercultural communications course (also required). It has already become a source of contention. The professor seems to think that we students should focus on the class 24/7. There was a bit of anarchy when the university activated all classes on the first day and we discovered on the syllabus that by Thursday noon of that week we were instructed to read close to 200 pages and submit a 400 word essay using points from the book. After a major coup d’état by us students, the professor agreed to extend the deadline for the next week's project.

Meanwhile, the other class is much more laid back, our discussion board posts are more free flowing, less fearful. For extra credit, I've already begun and submitted another blog through WordPress. I may end up using it to switch over there someday. More on that in the future (wink).

Another Reason My Church Kicks Ass!

2008-07-27T16:48:00.007-04:00

Christmas in July!

Today, we sang Christmas carols in a sweltering sanctuary, complete with a decorated lit up tree. It was to remind us that love, charity, and acceptance of others aren't to be focused on in December alone.

I hadn't attended in some time, so it was great to see so many more new members. Several of them in my age group. This is a first in a congregation that for the past ten years counted only a few members who were under the age of 35.

90 Years Has July

2008-07-17T10:46:00.021-04:00

Today marks 90 years since that fateful night on July 17, 1918 when Tsar Nicholas II, his family and his retinue, were led down to the cellar room of the Ipatiev house and murdered. Ending their lives and the Romanov dynasty.

Such a somber anniversary. If you can call it that.

In Russia, this occasion is being marked with Orthodox services all over the country. Naturally, Yekaterinburg is the focal point. In scientific news, there is cause for at least some celebration. The Russian team has concluded that the remains found last year are in fact the Tsarevich Alexei and his sister Marie.

I will be in St Petersburg and Moscow this November, too late for the commemorations. Still, it will be poignant to visit the Alexander Palace, the last home of the Tsar and his family before their exile and ultimate death, during this anniversary year.

A Fresh Start

2008-07-07T12:17:00.008-04:00

Summer classes start today at my new university. I'll be taking on two courses in eight weeks. Both are part of the required curriculum. Logging on, I was ecstatic to be welcomed as a full student, regardless of the fact that I am learning from a distance. What an excellent start! Though I don't have my books yet. Those should be trickling in shortly.

Fingers crossed!

DC, Explored

2008-07-06T18:08:00.030-04:00

Just got back from Washington DC were we spent four days and three nights. Our hotel was located in Logan Circle and had a funky vibe. Visiting the city was a nice distraction, even if the weather didn't fully cooperate. Naturally, DC is primo for collecting NPS stamps, and we pretty much got all of them, save for a few spots that were out of the city center.

Photos here.

Here's a basic rundown of the things we visited and saw.

Day 1 -
Old Post Office Tower. It offers excellent views of the city and of the Washington Monument.
Photo-ops in front of the White House. I despise the current guy in power and hope to see Obama in there by 2009 (fingers crossed). Then, I'll be able to take another picture with a more confident smile!

Day 2 -
Arlington National Cemetery. The sun was beating down and draining our energy for the duration of our travels there. We saw the graves of both Kennedy's: John and Robert. We also visited the grave of Audie Murphy (the most decorated American soldier), the Space Shuttle Challenger memorial, and the mast of the USS Havana. Most moving was the changing of the guard in front of the tombs of the unknown soldiers. I don't know how these soldiers do it, but the fact they can endure this in all kinds of weather will always have my respect.

National Holocaust Museum. The permanent exhibit is moving and a frightening reminder of such a dark time in Western history. I was soothed by the sight of visitors from all ages, races, and walks of life who were viewing the exhibit along side me. The museum's slogan "Think of What You Saw" stayed with me the entire trip.

At night, we saw the fireworks on display near the Washington Monument. We changed our minds at the last minute and decided the mall was too crowded, so we found (by accident) a spot on 15th & Pennsylvania Ave which was just a block away from all the action, but afforded the same exact view. Others thought so too because by the time the sun set, the park was filled to the brim with spectators.

Day 3 -
This was our get-out-and-finally-see-everything day, and it concentrated mainly on area around the National Mall. In no particular order: WWII Memorial, Korean War Memorial, Vietnam Veterans Memorial, Lincoln Memorial, FDR Memorial, and the Thomas Jefferson Memorial. Well, the last one was from a distance as it was too hot and we were about to suffer from heatstroke. But, we got close enough to "see" what was inside! The reflecting pool was so dirty, really cruddy. Unbelievable considering it manages to look so pristine in media images.

I witnessed a curious thing at the Vietnam Veterans Memorial. Apparently, if you have a name, the parks department will do a name rubbing for you. We saw this happen a few times. I thought it poignant that families of these soldiers are allowed to have a keepsake of the wall that bears the name of their fallen relative.

That night, we participated in a night time trolley tour to see the city lit up. I highly recommend this tour. The Lincoln Memorial is more beautiful at night, especially with Abe's majestic presence looking out towards the Washington Monument.

It's kind of odd when I consider all the other countries I've been to. Yet, up until this point, I hadn't even seen my own nation's capital!

Exploring DC

2008-07-02T17:28:00.010-04:00

Tomorrow, we head out to our nation's capital - Washington DC. I have never been before, and I'm looking forward to going. We haven't planned much in terms of the who, what, when, and where; but I'm sure it will all fall into place. Our travels will take us to most of the major monuments, including Arlington Cemetery. Museums will be added to our itinerary if we can manage to get timed tickets for the days we want. So much up in the air right now.

The weather doesn't look like it will cooperate, but we're going to make the best of it regardless.

June Shelter Duty 2008

2008-06-29T09:38:00.005-04:00

It was quite the rough night, and early morning. Too bad since it was the last official night for the shelter until autumn rolls around. I just wished things ended on a better note. The bus arrived too early, both in the evening and the next morning. This left the guests running around in a mad scramble to get ready, strip their beds, and claim a seat to take them back to the drop off center. No one seemed to have gotten a decent night's sleep. I know I certainly didn't.

Not a great way to end the season.

Reassessing the Classics

2008-06-28T14:06:00.007-04:00

Ripped from the pages of the Noble Savage, is the list of Entertainment Weekly's "100 New Classics". I think it's time to evolve our definition of what is a classic, especially for those movies that may have not won academy awards or have made more money off of DVD sales than theater sales, but that we love and will watch almost every time they appear on TBS.

In bold are the ones I've seen.

1. Pulp Fiction (1994)
2. The Lord of the Rings trilogy (2001-03)
3. Titanic (1997)
4. Blue Velvet (1986)
5. Toy Story (1995)
6. Saving Private Ryan (1998)
7. Hannah and Her Sisters (1986)
8. The Silence of the Lambs (1991)
9. Die Hard (1988)
10. Moulin Rouge (2001)
11. This Is Spinal Tap (1984)
12. The Matrix (1999)
13. GoodFellas (1990)
14. Crumb (1995)
15. Edward Scissorhands (1990)
16. Boogie Nights (1997)
17. Jerry Maguire (1996)
18. Do the Right Thing (1989)
19. Casino Royale (2006)
20. The Lion King (1994)
21. Schindler’s List (1993)
22. Rushmore (1998)
23. Memento (2001)
24. A Room With a View (1986)
25. Shrek (2001)
26. Hoop Dreams (1994)
27. Aliens (1986)
28. Wings of Desire (1988)
29. The Bourne Supremacy (2004)
30. When Harry Met Sally… (1989)
31. Brokeback Mountain (2005)
32. Fight Club (1999)
33. The Breakfast Club (1985)
34. Fargo (1996)
35. The Incredibles (2004)
36. Spider-Man 2 (2004)
37. Pretty Woman (1990)
38. Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind (2004)
39. The Sixth Sense (1999)
40. Speed (1994)
41. Dazed and Confused (1993)
42. Clueless (1995)
43. Gladiator (2000)
44. The Player (1992)
45. Rain Man (1988 )
46. Children of Men (2006)
47. Men in Black (1997)
48. Scarface (1983)
49. Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon (2000)
50. The Piano (1993)
51. There Will Be Blood (2007)
52. The Naked Gun: From the Files of Police Squad (1988)
53. The Truman Show (1998)
54. Fatal Attraction (1987)
55. Risky Business (1983)
56. The Lives of Others (2006)
57. There’s Something About Mary (1998)
58. Ghostbusters (1984)
59. L.A. Confidential (1997)
60. Scream (1996)
61. Beverly Hills Cop (1984)
62. sex, lies and videotape (1989)
63. Big (1988)
64. No Country For Old Men (2007)
65. Dirty Dancing (1987)
66. Natural Born Killers (1994)
67. Donnie Brasco (1997)
68. Witness (1985)
69. All About My Mother (1999)
70. Broadcast News (1987)
71. Unforgiven (1992)
72. Thelma & Louise (1991)
73. Office Space (1999)
74. Drugstore Cowboy (1989)
75. Out of Africa (1985)
76. The Departed (2006)
77. Sid and Nancy (1986)
78. Terminator 2: Judgment Day (1991)
79. Waiting for Guffman (1996)
80. Michael Clayton (2007)
81. Moonstruck (1987)
82. Lost in Translation (2003)
83. Evil Dead 2: Dead by Dawn (1987)
84. Sideways (2004)
85. The 40 Year-Old Virgin (2005)
86. Y Tu Mamá También (2002)
87. Swingers (1996)
88. Austin Powers: International Man of Mystery (1997)
89. Breaking the Waves (1996)
90. Napoleon Dynamite (2004)
91. Back to the Future (1985)
92. Menace II Society (1993)
93. Ed Wood (1994)
94. Full Metal Jacket (1987)
95. In the Mood for Love (2001)
96. Far From Heaven (2002)
97. Glory (1989)
98. The Talented Mr. Ripley (1999)
99. The Blair Witch Project (1999)
100. South Park: Bigger Longer & Uncut (1999)

Friendship, Grown Up

2008-06-23T21:50:00.035-04:00

This past weekend one of my closest friends, M, came to the city to visit me. As usual, we had a raucous time with alcohol, food, and laughter, all very much a part of the action.

M and I met on the playground in 2nd grade. From then on, we were inseparable. That is, until the end of fourth grade, when her family packed up and moved back to Boston. We were gutted. For years, both of us were forced to communicate via snail mail with the odd phone call to each other. We lost contact in high school, but it wasn't because of any falling out. The distance, compounded by living in an era which predated both the Internet and low cost long distance, was sadly to blame.

It wasn't until after graduation that one day I sat down and penned a "how are you?" letter to her. What I didn't know until afterwards was that she too was writing the same letter to me. Both of us praying that the other still lived at the same address as years before. When her letter reached me (mine never came to her), it was like we were never apart. A few shrieky phone calls back and forth and she was on her way to drive down take me away for a Boston weekend. From then on, we never again lost contact.

The thing with M and I is that we can both be busy and not pull any "you were supposed to call me" attitude. We both understand that the phone works both ways and that's what gives longevity to our friendship. That said, she is in Los Angeles and I am in New York. This makes for a difficult time to see each other much. So, when the opportunity arises and we can get together, we go all out.

Most of our time this weekend was spent shopping, eating, drinking, and catching up on the small things people blank on when they're on the phone or IM'ing each other. She's talking about moving back East and transplanting herself right here in the city. That'll be crazy cool, for us anyway. If her plan comes to fruition, it will be the first time we have lived in close proximity since we were kids. Like 2nd grade all over again.

Transfer...Next Stop

2008-06-23T21:50:00.020-04:00

There is such excitement in the air. The university has finished evaluating my college transcripts. I received in the mail confirmation of the classes and amount of credits they were able to transfer over into my intended degree program. I was ecstatic when I opened the envelope to see that I've been awarded the full 60 credits. This is also the maximum they can transfer under their rules and guidelines. It really gave me a sense of exaltation. Like it was all coming together for me now.

Yeah, so they didn't honor two of my courses, but their policy clearly states the 60 credit maximum, so I was happy with what they gave me. Besides, they dropped the two classes that each earned me only two credits, so it wasn't that bad. One thing that rubs me, but I'll get over soon, is that I'm required to take a three credit English course that focuses solely on writing a research paper. This happens to be one of the two credit courses the university chose not to honor. Now, I can write a mean paper, but it kinda feels like an academic version of the movie Groundhog Day where I'm repeating the same course over again.

In the meantime, I've matched the courses that correspond to my future curriculum and it's looking good. It's looking like I'll be able to focus pretty extensively on my major. Another bummer is that although I took statistics as a math requirement for my current college, two courses in algebra are required for my intended degree. That brings the total to three math classes. I can't get upset, and can only shrug my shoulders at the way the curriculum cards played out. Lucky for me, I can count statistics towards my general electives, so that's coming as a plus. I just deplore math, is all.

Right now, it's just so…new. It's electric. Now that I have the accepted course outline, I feel as if I can get going. For now, another question mark, another obstacle, has been removed from my continuing path of studies.

To Russia, with Love

2008-06-12T09:56:00.011-04:00

I'm really bad at keeping such juicy information from everyone, so here goes - This November, I'm going to St. Petersburg and Moscow. I'm sure it wasn't exactly a big surprise to the few who read this blog. Normally, I would stay quiet out of this weird fear I have of forever jinxing myself should I dare utter anything too early. Born under a bad sign, I guess. But since I am still shocked at the prospect of visiting St. Petersburg, my dream city, I figure that if something stands in the way, it would have been expected anyway.

With so much to plan in advance and the rising costs of oil, seeking out airfare had to be completed as early as possible. This, is a difficult one as past trips to Europe almost always started out as an idea and came to fruition only around September and October. I recall one trip to London being decided upon and booked only 2-3 weeks prior to leaving.

That said, the itinerary is as follows:

1 day in Helsinki
1-1/2 days in Tallinn
5 days in St. Petersburg
1-1/2 days in Moscow

I have kept a promise to myself that Helsinki and Tallinn will not be filled with treacherous itineraries but instead, calm excursions to check out only the best and brightest these two cities have to offer. Helsinki is actually an 8 hour layover with probably about five hours for myself. The rest will be check-in and boarding protocol. Tallinn? What can I say? My original goal plan was to fly into Helsinki and spend a day or so there before hopping the train to St. Petersburg. It seems to be the natural course of action for those who do this trip. However, ever since my good friend D went there last year, I was stunned by the pictures he took of this often overlooked city. The flight I found was the same price even if it didn't include Tallinn. A sign that it would be foolish to miss out on such an opportunity. Besides, it beats lugging around and trying to find a place to store luggage for the day.

There is so much to plan and my visit happens to be in November, when it gets dark earlier. This was something clearly out of my control, time and money wise, as any earlier travel is not feasible (for my sins, I guess).

The palaces of the Romanov's, The Hermitage, The Kremlin, and Red Square. It's all too odd and out of reach to me now. I think after I come back it may very well remain as such.

C Ya!

2008-06-11T14:17:00.006-04:00

After waiting anxiously all Sunday night and all Monday morning, I finally received the e-mail that contained my grade for the semester. It's a C. Don't get me wrong, I'm actually happy with this grade. It's exactly what I anticipated. I worked very hard for this grade and I knew going in that an A was out of the question, and that a B was asking too much. A nice little C.

I'm praying this will be the end of attending my current college, and I'll be able to graduate with my Associates degree. But I'm not hopeful. I am currently in the process of dealing with the college appeals committee to move my entry year back to its original date so that I don't have to take two more classes. You see, I was away from my school for a year due to a situation I am convinced was the college's fault. It's long and complicated and I can't explain without tears welling up in my eyes. I just never expected my school to act in a way that would bring me to this level of frustration.

Fun With Hema

2008-06-08T19:27:00.015-04:00

I grabbed this off one of the forums I visit. It's a cute Rube Goldberg way of announcing online shopping.

http://producten.hema.nl/

(Make sure the sound is on)

It's. Just. So. Hot.

2008-06-08T19:23:00.006-04:00

The city is currently in the midst of a raging, humidity filled heat wave, and it won't subside for several days now. Me? I've been staying low and keeping my movements to a minimum lest I break even more of a sweat than I already have. I did get out yesterday. First for school, which wasn't too bad because it was morning, then early in the evening, to capture any night breezes I could to keep my body heat down. Today, was the worst of it, as I had to get laundry done. There is nothing worse then entering a laundromat on a day like today. Curses!

It's the beginning of June and this is what we have to face? I don't know what I'll do come August.

With the Mind Alone...

2008-06-06T05:09:00.003-04:00

Russia cannot be understood. No ordinary yardstick spans her greatness; She stands alone, unique - In Russia one can only believe.

--Fyodor Tytchev

JFK--> HEL--> TLL--> LED--> DME--> ORD--> EWR

Eleven Years On

2008-06-01T08:03:00.013-04:00

And I almost forgot.

It wasn't until last night when it occurred to me that today is my eleven year anniversary of moving to the city. I only realized this when during a conversation with one of our shelter guests, she revealed that she had once lived in the same residence I had when I first moved here.

Even more special is that today is the actual day, Sunday, when I arrived.

Another odd thing. This very residence is now a luxury hotel. My own friend will be staying there when she visits in a few weeks. I can't wait to go back and check out my old haunt.

May Shelter Duty 2008

2008-06-01T07:48:00.012-04:00

Nothing much to report. The shelter season is coming to a close at the end of this month and things were quiet despite the fact that there will be one less facility offering beds until the fall season begins. With the rain coming and going all day, I feared that since our guests would have spent pretty much all day holed up with each other, they would arrive carrying the frustrations and squabbles which occur when people of different personalities and backgrounds are confined together for long periods of time. Thankfully, there was no drama or harsh words exchanged amongst anyone.

The bus arrived last night probably the latest it had ever come in all the years I have volunteered. It also arrived this morning the earliest it had ever been in all the years I have volunteered. This company, although new this year, still hasn't sussed out a normalized schedule.

That said, it was nice to come home early, although my rhythms are a bit off.