Day 8 - Poland

November 28 -

I finally got a good night's rest and an amazingly full breakfast. I was prepared for walking Krakow this day. I had made friends at the hostel and palled around with one of them for the day as we walked most of the main area of the city, called Old Town. The main square is gorgeous. We walked further out of the main area and found Oskar Schindler's factory, albeit in a very dodgy area of town. Kazmeirez was cool to explore. Krakow's Jewish quarter is fairly intact, considering the viscous history visited upon the area and its residents during the Nazi regime. Virtually nothing remains of the Jewish population, and those visiting must piece together their fateful lives through the buildings and temples that still stand as a testament to their past existence.

We ate at Ariel, laughing at the menu options. A lot of the dishes were preceded by the word "Jewish" - as in "Jewish roast beef", "Jewish stew". Otherwise, is was a nice dining experience, though naturally, a bit touristy given the area. Afterwards, with night falling around us, we checked out the Christmas market in the center of the main square. I did a bit of shopping in the old textile hall and finally called it a night.

I loved the hostel I stayed in and met some great people. Greg & Tom was an amazing place to hang out. The staff was top notch. Snacks and drinks were provided non-stop and they served an amazing breakfast. They have a no bunk beds policy, which is always nice. Close to the train station and Old Town, it was perfect, especially since I had an early morning flight and didn't want any problems getting to the train.

Day 7 - Poland

November 27 -

I don't think one could ever prepare themselves for a visit to a concentration camp. Given my sorrow a few days earlier at Babi Yar, I still didn't know what to expect visiting Auschwitz. I think we all know it's an awful place, filled with the worst evil humanity could have thought to dredge up. Even the leftover remains of the barracks tells a story of extreme desperation.

I took the city bus out to Osweicim, which oddly enough, is a beautiful ride. My mind was momentarily lost in the beauty of the Polish countryside until we got closer and I was struck with the most worrisome thoughts about what kind of past these homes had. Who lived here when the camps were built? What did they think of the horrors practically occurring at their doorstep? Did they watch the many death marches to and from the camps? What did they think, or did they think at all out of fear of the reality of the situation?

The closer we got to the camp the more anxious I found myself, until we arrived and were let off in the parking lot. Entering the infamous "Arbeit macht frei" sign ("work makes free"), I had to wince at the absurdity of it all. No one was ever set free for working. Walking the rows of blockhouses I was struck at how well done this monument was to those who perished here. There are actually two Auschwitz camps. The second and bigger camp is about a mile away in Brzezinka. I walked the distance, collecting my thoughts, and arrived to deal with a completely different camp, but felt the same disturbing feelings walking amongst this hallowed graveyard.

My feelings for this visit run deep. Words cannot express how profound my experience here was. I walked through the camp silent, inwardly gasping at some of the exhibits. Rooms full of suitcases, shoes, and bags of women's hair, and a display of baby clothes - it was extremely unbearably at times. My faith in humanity was tested several times. But, I had to stay and bear witness, or else I could not be a proper witness when these crimes are questioned by those with hateful agendas.